2026 Big Bend Sasquatch Audio Build?

[ryanc721]

Im looking to upgrade the audio in my bronco. I currently already own a JL sub, a rocksford fosgate amp, and an audio control lc800 amp. Ive seen a ton of people upgrade to kicker and use that kicker key amp but im trying to avoid that. Im going to pick up some kicker speakers. My question is....

My bronco has the 6 speaker with a sub. Can i just take out that amp and sub and use the same enclosure and install my own and if i can will it sound awful? Also, is there a harness that i can use the factory amp signal to send signal to my amp (not power obviously)

Thanks in advance guys, im new here lol

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[Brian_B]

Yes, you can re-use the enclosure. It will fit up to an 8" sub with minor modifications (although some deeper ones may have issues)

It is a ported enclosure, I found that when I upgraded the sub the port/volume calcs went out the window and it sounded a lot more balanced sealed than leaving the port open. There are 3D printable plugs, or you can DIY with some imagination. The port entry is kind of odd shaped.

This is a decent start:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-key-500-1-and-kicker-sub.79780/#post-2342706

The Kicker CompRT are popular because they sound decent and are known to fit without issue, but they are by no means the only subwoofers you could use, nor would I claim they are necessarily ~the best~ in terms of sub sound quality.

For the harness/amp - 2025+ shifted to a digital A2B amplifier - to re-use the factory sub harness, you need a compatible A2B amp. I know some companies were working on bringing them to market; not sure if any actually have shown up yet though. Mohbridge would be one company to look at in particular there.

It's possible to use a LOC (or amp with high level input) and pull a new signal in, it isn't optimal, but possible. You could go off the existing sub amp pretty easy, or pull from the front kick panel for non-shaped signal if you wanted a more pure approach. Another option would be to use a 5+ channel or DSP amp up front and program it to provide a new sub output channel (either pre-amp for a separate sub amp in back, or bridged channels to drive directly). The Kicker 200.4 won't do that, but there are many that will - Musway is a popular one around here, just to give an example. @23OBX2.7 had a fairly nice Audison DSP amp for sale that would do fairly nicely feeding Kicker 400 (or other sub amp)

As far as harnesses go - it's gonna vary widely depending on how you hook it up. Plugnplaykits.com is a vendor around here and has a lot of them pre-made, so you can try there, but I don't know specifically if they have anything exact: his website is comprehensive but does need a bit of explanation. Fortunately he's usually pretty responsive and lurks on the site here.

 

[ryanc721]

Yes, you can re-use the enclosure. It will fit up to an 8" sub with minor modifications (although some deeper ones may have issues)

It is a ported enclosure, I found that when I upgraded the sub the port/volume calcs went out the window and it sounded a lot more balanced sealed than leaving the port open. There are 3D printable plugs, or you can DIY with some imagination. The port entry is kind of odd shaped.

This is a decent start:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-key-500-1-and-kicker-sub.79780/#post-2342706

The Kicker CompRT are popular because they sound decent and are known to fit without issue, but they are by no means the only subwoofers you could use, nor would I claim they are necessarily ~the best~ in terms of sub sound quality.

For the harness/amp - 2025+ shifted to a digital A2B amplifier - to re-use the factory sub harness, you need a compatible A2B amp. I know some companies were working on bringing them to market; not sure if any actually have shown up yet though. Mohbridge would be one company to look at in particular there.

It's possible to use a LOC (or amp with high level input) and pull a new signal in, it isn't optimal, but possible. You could go off the existing sub amp pretty easy, or pull from the front kick panel for non-shaped signal if you wanted a more pure approach. Another option would be to use a 5+ channel or DSP amp up front and program it to provide a new sub output channel (either pre-amp for a separate sub amp in back, or bridged channels to drive directly). The Kicker 200.4 won't do that, but there are many that will - Musway is a popular one around here, just to give an example. @23OBX2.7 had a fairly nice Audison DSP amp for sale that would do fairly nicely feeding Kicker 400 (or other sub amp)

As far as harnesses go - it's gonna vary widely depending on how you hook it up. Plugnplaykits.com is a vendor around here and has a lot of them pre-made, so you can try there, but I don't know specifically if they have anything exact: his website is comprehensive but does need a bit of explanation. Fortunately he's usually pretty responsive and lurks on the site here.

https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

Would something like that work even though its not a BnO system?

 

[NAV-TV]

https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

Would something like that work even though its not a BnO system?

We are about a month out from the non B&O kit. It will only be compatible for 2025+ Broncos.
Harness and bracket are different to B&O Broncos

 

[ryanc721]

We are about a month out from the non B&O kit. It will only be compatible for 2025+ Broncos.
Harness and bracket are different to B&O Broncos

Okay so there is a kit coming? Whats included?

 

[NAV-TV]

Okay so there is a kit coming? Whats included?

Yes sir!
Same story as the outgoing mObridge kit.

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1051/zen-power-9-f25.html

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1055/bronco-kit-21-24.html

Here is the new amp and the b&O Bronco kit. You'll need the new non b&O kit which isn't up on the website yet but it will come with everything you need for the install.

 

[ryanc721]

Yes sir!
Same story as the outgoing mObridge kit.

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1051/zen-power-9-f25.html

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1055/bronco-kit-21-24.html

Here is the new amp and the b&O Bronco kit. You'll need the new non b&O kit which isn't up on the website yet but it will come with everything you need for the install.

Okay so if i already have the amps i need, do i just buy the kit? or do i NEED to buy the amp too?

 

[NAV-TV]

Oh then just get the pre-amp:
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1...DiJzHhUF4CGKOD1IZVsnXMc_qlJTvm9vLCXJE2HCkmDmW

It's already compatible with NON-B&O Broncos and will allow you to remove the factory sub woofer amp all together and give you a crystal clear signal to start with. Just make sure you buy the additional harness.

 

[NAV-TV]

The kit is only applicable to our amp. Not much use with other amps

 

[ryanc721]

The kit is only applicable to our amp. Not much use with other amps

Okay so if i get the NTV-KIT1035, I connect to the factory amp to that right to my amps from back there with no need to go behind the factory head unit?

 

[NAV-TV]

Let me give you the full run down.
There are two different a2b (digital audio bus) amps in the 25+ model Broncos. The base, which is what you have and the B&O amp.

They both use A2B however the B&O amp also has CAN as it is a smart amp.

For the ZEN-F25 to function properly it needs CAN. As your bronco has the base amp there is no Can back there. This is what the additional harness is for, it grabs can from the headunit and runs it back to our pre-amp. Technically speaking you could get this elsewhere and not have to get behind the headunit but that's actually the easiest place to get can - not to mention your speaker outputs are there too which our harness also pins out.

Where the zen pre amp differs from other solutions is it grabs the raw unprocessed A2B signal and converts it to RCA & TOSLINK. Your only other option is to do high level in off the headunit which means you're grabbing a dirty amplified and processed signal.

It comes down to your expectations and budget for the system. If you want to do it cheap it will work doing high level in. If you want it to sound right you need a pre-amp or a2b input amplifier

 

[ryanc721]

Let me give you the full run down.
There are two different a2b (digital audio bus) amps in the 25+ model Broncos. The base which is what you have and the B&O amp.

They both use A2B however the B&O amp also has CAN as it is a smart amp.

For the ZEN-F25 to function properly it needs CAN. As your bronco has the base amp there is no Can back there. This is what the additional harness is for, it grabs can from the headunit and runs it back to our pre-amp. Technically speaking you could get this elsewhere and not have to get behind the headunit but that's actually the easiest place to get can - not to mention your speaker outputs are there too which our harness also pins out.

Where the zen pre amp differs from other solutions is it grabs the raw unprocessed A2B signal and converts it to RCA & TOSLINK. Your only other option is to do high level in off the headunit which means you're grabbing a dirty amplified and processed signal.

It comes down to your expectations and budget for the system. If you want to do it cheap it will work doing high level in. If you want it to sound right you need a pre-amp or a2b input amplifier

Alright so if im understanding this correctly. Back of the headunit using your harness to the back of the bronco where the factory amp is. Then into f25... then out to the amps.....? and then back into the f25?...

 

[NAV-TV]

Alright so if im understanding this correctly. Back of the headunit using your harness to the back of the bronco where the factory amp is. Then into f25... then out to the amps.....? and then back into the f25?...

Mostly!
So you can get to the ACM(headunit) by removing the climate control panel, two 10mm bolts either side pull hard and it comes out.
Plug the T harness in and run that to the back of the car where the factory amp is. Remove factory amp and plug F25 in.
The f25 supplys the signal to your amp (rcas). then wire the output of your amps back into the speaker inputs provided by the harness.

Our harness only pins out the speaker outputs of the headunit which are: Front left, Front right, rear left, rear right.
Your dash speakers are running off the same channel as your front kicks. Given you have an 8 channl amp I would actually run new wires to the dash speakers and run them active. It will sound better

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