LeBronco Audio Build

[zombie]

I manage the tech in a fleet of over 3000 municipal vehicles.. Including a fleet of 15 boats from 15' to 90'+

And I repair electrical systems in the army for a living, no self-respecting technician uses crimp connector.

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[chtucker]

And I repair electrical systems in the army for a living, no self-respecting technician uses crimp connector.

https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-wire-or-soldered-wire-carry-a-current-better
https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/solder-vs-crimping/
https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/
https://www.reichelt.com/magazin/en/crimping-vs-soldering/

While none of those are authorative sources, I would be happy to see technical journal that demosntrates soldering connectors to be superiour, especially with large gauge automotive wiring.

 

[Tonka Bronka]

I'm with you. More contact are than a crimp if done correctly and cleaner looking. You can also unsolder for modifications later if needed.

I found the best source for wire and lugs to be marine supply companies, cheaper than audio supply.

 

[Tonka Bronka]

Soldering is not a mechanical strong connection. Soldering makes for great electrical connections.

That’s what we’re talking about, electrical connections. A properly soldered and heat shrunk connection is as good as it gets.

 

[De Brus]

I’ll throw my hat in.

Nobody who knows how to solder uses crimp terminals

I know how to solder. I also have a large list of clientele ranging from million dollar trophy trucks, celebrity builders, law enforcement and marine applications. I’ve never once soldered a connection in any of those applications. A properly crimped connection in conjunction with glue filled heat shrink is the industry standard.

Nobody who takes driving off road (track included) seriously, solders.

Probably because you're intentionally creating a fail point in every electrical connection you solder.

I usually like to disagree with you but this time I couldn’t agree more If I soldered the harness in a trophy truck I would get laughed out of the shop.

I manage the tech in a fleet of over 3000 municipal vehicles.. Including a fleet of 15 boats from 15' to 90'+

Having wired a fleet of patrol cars and 2 command posts in SoCal, I couldn’t agree more. Crimp and seal is faster and more reliable.

And I repair electrical systems in the army for a living, no self-respecting technician uses crimp connector.

I wired the Chenowth Racing fast attack vehicles for desert storm, all with crimp connectors. Crimps were not only the best option, they are serviceable the field. I feel like every time I get into this discussion it’s with people who are stuck using old school methods and refuse to accept change. It’s definitely the industry standard, milspec in instances I’m familiar with, and much faster.

Will solder work for the Bronco? Absolutely. Is it the best way to do it? I vote no.

 

[edgeflyer]

Depending on the soldering material, it can be structural. I also solder connections on $12,000 airplanes, if one of those joints fails, it's a total loss. If you really want a good joint, crack your mig gas open on your wire while you solder. That was a joke, but I want to do it now to see how it looks.

 

[LeBronco]

I manage the tech in a fleet of over 3000 municipal vehicles.. Including a fleet of 15 boats from 15' to 90'+

Well, Joe Biden is the President of the United States................. So

 

[LeBronco]

ok, a little more info. this is what i have done so far. i am actually pretty close to being done. i just need to figure out the subwoofer solution. just a few minutes ago, i saw an aluminum tailgate enclosure for a JL W3 series sub. if he is interested in making one for the 13w5, i will almost surely go this route and not have to screw with fiberglassing something to work in the rear passenger quarter panel. so right now, i just have my old trusty 12w7 box laying in the back for now.

For Power I used Knu Koncepts Kolossus Fleks 1/0 from the battery through a 200A fuse to a power distribution block that is for now zip tied as shown. I will make a bracket out of starboard that uses the two studs shown to mount my distribution hub to. the bracket will also move it up a good 3-4" which I like.. from there i have 2 4ga power wires going down drivers side "cable tray to the rear of the truck. I did this because 1/0 would have been tough to fit and would have been more gear needed in the rear, which i do not want. i also have 2 4ga ground wires bolted to rear seat studs.

so i intercepted the signal at the kick panel speakers using some male quick connect crimp on connectors to insert into the factory harness. i will replace these with a plug in harness when available for a more secure connection, but right now they are zip tied as shown and should not wiggle loose. they travel to the back via twisted 18ga. wire.

the incoming audio signal goes to an Audio Control D-1200.6

from there I have 6 14ga speaker wires going back up to the front dash, 3 per side. (all signal and speaker wires are on passenger side) 2 pairs for each dash speaker and 1 pair for each kick panel.

I modified my Focal 4" coaxial speakers and removed the internal capacitor (crossover) so now each coaxial has two speaker inputs. One for the tweeter, one for the midrange driver. i purchased 2 matching 6" drivers from the 3way Focal separates kit.

So from the amp, channels 1 and 2 power the tweeters, channels 3 and 4 power the midrange, channels 5 and 6 power the midbass in the kick panels. all of this can be manipulated with incredible flexibility from the DSP built into the amp. every channel can be crossed over, time aligned, and EQ'd separately. It sounds freaking awesome!!!

so the amp has channels 7 and 8 out via RCA outputs that also can be fully manipulated for anything you may want to hook to it.

I was going to take those outputs and run them to my old Punch 500.2 dedicated for the sub. Well as soon as I got it hooked up, she took a crap!!! I had actually experienced some issues with it in my 4runner that made me think it was on its way out. So for now, i disconnected my midbass and bridged channels 5 and 6 of the audio control to the sub. it sounds phenomenal!!!! that w7 is a world class sub!! i wish i had room to keep it, but i have to have unimpeded use of the rear cargo area. i cannot loose height width or anything.

so i will be getting a new sub amp, probably an Audio Control LC-800.1

I left all of the plastic off of the rear until I figure out what i am going to do for my sub, so i left all the power and signal wires long until I get everything solidified, so it looks like ass!! but I will post some more pics shortly. (waiting on my iPhone to backup so i can swap to the new 13 I got in the mail today)

Also, I will definitely be getting a crimp ring terminal to satisfy the peanut gallery, but I will also be filling it with solder after crimping. I have seen many high end car audio dudes do this.

 

[zombie]

Pics or it didn't happen!

 

[BlarneyStoned]

If you think crimp connectors are stronger than solder, you've never soldered anything properly.

It's not necessarily that solder connections aren't strong, it's that they make the wire joint brittle because solder wicks beyond the joint, heat damages the insulation near the joint (which for decent insulation isn't a huge problem, but the cheaper more plastic insulated wire can leave bare wire exposed from the heat).

I used to always solder things when I installed car audio gear and accessories but I've also had to go back and trace down intermittently working connections from older installs I'd done as well as from work I inherited when I've bought cars that were modified because of broken solder joints.

explains it pretty well

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