285/75/17s on a Black Diamond NON Sasquatch?

[Discount Tire]

@Scott M Thank you for the opportunity to earn your business. Appreciate the report out. Lots of good information, not to mention some really cool pic! Thanks for sharing.

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[redone17]

@Scott M - no rub on the sway bar at full lock? I get it on compression. I put 1.5” spacers - but, gonna swap for 1.25 next rotation. 1” would be ideal, but I’m not willing to trim the studs. I love the steelies too much and really haven’t found anything I’d like to replace them with the right offset (I think 25mm will do the trick). This size has been great. I plan to get their RT Trail series once these wear out. I’m hoping they add some sizes by then.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

@Scott M - no rub on the sway bar at full lock? I get it on compression. I put 1.5” spacers - but, gonna swap for 1.25 next rotation. 1” would be ideal, but I’m not willing to trim the studs. I love the steelies too much and really haven’t found anything I’d like to replace them with the right offset (I think 25mm will do the trick). This size has been great. I plan to get their RT Trail series once these wear out. I’m hoping they add some sizes by then.

Trimming the studs isn't too bad. But definitely a bit of a leap. Good news is you only have to do the rear.

 

[redone17]

Trimming the studs isn't too bad. But definitely a bit of a leap. Good news is you only have to do the rear.

Rear? Would have to do all four, no?

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Rear? Would have to do all four, no?

Nope. The front studs are fine with the 1" spacers and steelies.

 

[Scott M]

@Scott M - no rub on the sway bar at full lock? .....

Just a very small amount of rub on the sway bar. Not enough to cause issue or to concern me. I do have a set of .375" Bora spacers on the way, for cosmetic reasons- I think they will help fill out the fenders nicely and complete the look I'm going for. I want to keep the standard flares and not have any tread poke. I think a .5 or .75" spacer would be ideal but the thickness is limited by the stud length (nut engagement) in the front. 1.25" will look great with the sas flares.

 

[redone17]

Just a very small amount of rub on the sway bar. Not enough to cause issue or to concern me. I do have a set of .375" Bora spacers on the way, for cosmetic reasons- I think they will help fill out the fenders nicely and complete the look I'm going for. I want to keep the standard flares and not have any tread poke. I think a .5 or .75" spacer would be ideal but the thickness is limited by the stud length (nut engagement) in the front. 1.25" will look great with the sas flares.

I’m also not into the larger flares. I hadn’t taken it off-road without spacers - but, I’m sure it would be worse. My observation was just in my driveway and that was enough me to make an adjustment. Guess I need to research trimming studs a bit more. But, wasn’t into the idea.

 

[redone17]

Nope. The front studs are fine with the 1" spacers and steelies.

I did not realize that. Thanks for the info.

I would expect them to be the same.

 

[Scott M]

small update- I did a test fit with the .375" (10mm) spacers and the wheel studs on the front hubs are not long enough to allow for proper lug nut engagement. I was only able to get about 3.5 turns of the lug nuts on the front and about 5 on the rear. I know that some are running the .375" spacers, but I didn't feel comfortable with so little lug engagement and took them off. Unfortunately, extended lug nuts won't work either since the holes in the steel wheels are too small for the shaft of the extended lugs to pass through.
It did look subtly better with the spacers on - really put the tire tread right to the edge of the std flares. oh well.

Front stud protrusion:

with .375" spacers:

Good news though is that the tire rub on the sway bar is very minimal even after 3k miles and a bunch of off roading with full articulation. (see photos below) I'm even less concerned about it than I was before. While the wheels were off, I also combed over every inch of the wheel wells and couldn't find any additional rubbing.

And after 3,000 miles we're still loving the tires. They really added a bunch of capability with the added ground clearance and they drive great on the road. They can be a little low on grip in the rain when pulling away from a stop, but they deal with standing water well with no hydroplaning. The tread still looks great even after many gravel forest road miles too. As a bonus, my wife recently averaged 20mpg driving from Seattle to Portland and back at about 70-80mph.
And we're still very happy with how they look. Here's a shot from a recent offroad day at DirtFish taken by GallatinImages. Fits right in with the Genadiers on the steel wheels (no spacers):

 

[5280Bronco]

small update- I did a test fit with the .375" (10mm) spacers and the wheel studs on the front hubs are not long enough to allow for proper lug nut engagement. I was only able to get about 3.5 turns of the lug nuts on the front and about 5 on the rear. I know that some are running the .375" spacers, but I didn't feel comfortable with so little lug engagement and took them off. Unfortunately, extended lug nuts won't work either since the holes in the steel wheels are too small for the shaft of the extended lugs to pass through.
It did look subtly better with the spacers on - really put the tire tread right to the edge of the std flares. oh well.

Good news though is that the tire rub on the sway bar is very minimal even after 3k miles and a bunch of off roading with full articulation. (see photos below) I'm even less concerned about it than I was before. While the wheels were off, I also combed over every inch of the wheel wells and couldn't find any additional rubbing.

And after 3,000 miles we're still loving the tires. They really added a bunch of capability with the added ground clearance and they drive great on the road. They can be a little low on grip in the rain when pulling away from a stop, but they deal with standing water well with no hydroplaning. The tread still looks great even after many gravel forest road miles too. As a bonus, my wife recently averaged 20mpg driving from Seattle to Portland and back at about 70-80mph.
And we're still very happy with how they look. Here's a shot from a recent offroad day at DirtFish taken by GallatinImages. Fits right in with the Genadiers on the steel wheels:

Steelies unite!

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

small update- I did a test fit with the .375" (10mm) spacers and the wheel studs on the front hubs are not long enough to allow for proper lug nut engagement. I was only able to get about 3.5 turns of the lug nuts on the front and about 5 on the rear. I know that some are running the .375" spacers, but I didn't feel comfortable with so little lug engagement and took them off. Unfortunately, extended lug nuts won't work either since the holes in the steel wheels are too small for the shaft of the extended lugs to pass through.
It did look subtly better with the spacers on - really put the tire tread right to the edge of the std flares. oh well.

Yeah you have to do 1.25" bolt on spacers to clear the steelies. I did 1" bolt on's by trimming the rear studs a smidge.

 

[PolarVortex]

Yeah you have to do 1.25" bolt on spacers to clear the steelies. I did 1" bolt on's by trimming the rear studs a smidge.

Thinking about getting the 285/75R17 Toyo tires after my General Grabbers are done and I've been through this thread a few times. I plan on keeping the steelies as I really like them. Just wanted to clarify a few things that are unclear to me:

1. Are spacers absolutely necessary when getting the larger tire? If I'm keeping the stock steelies I mean......

2. Why would you trim the studs if you're putting on a spacer? Doesn't that make it so the studs are even less engaged with the lugnuts? I must be missing something here.

3. After putting on the larger tire, is recalibrating the speedometer with Forscan required?

4. Leveling/lifting required at all? I want to avoid doing too much modifying.

Thanks to Scott, GiJo, redone, etc for all the info and photos.

 

[sundaeman]

Thinking about getting the 285/75R17 Toyo tires after my General Grabbers are done and I've been through this thread a few times. I plan on keeping the steelies as I really like them. Just wanted to clarify a few things that are unclear to me:

1. Are spacers absolutely necessary when getting the larger tire? If I'm keeping the stock steelies I mean......

2. Why would you trim the studs if you're putting on a spacer? Doesn't that make it so the studs are even less engaged with the lugnuts? I must be missing something here.

3. After putting on the larger tire, is recalibrating the speedometer with Forscan required?

4. Leveling/lifting required at all? I want to avoid doing too much modifying.

Thanks to Scott, GiJo, redone, etc for all the info and photos.

I've got 285/75R17 Duratracs on my BD factory steel wheels.

In my experience. No Spacers, No idea about trimming studs. You need to recalibrate. No level/lift required. But I didn't get off road with them. I got the Ford Performance 2" lift installed after having the Duratracs a few weeks, I bought it on sale before I picked my tires.

 

[PolarVortex]

I've got 285/75R17 Duratracs on my BD factory steel wheels.

In my experience. No Spacers, No idea about trimming studs. You need to recalibrate. No level/lift required. But I didn't get off road with them. I got the Ford Performance 2" lift installed after having the Duratracs a few weeks, I bought it on sale before I picked my tires.

HUGE help. That is great thanks. I'll look into the FP 2" lift - can you send a pic of yours with the lift?

 

[Scott M]

Thinking about getting the 285/75R17 Toyo tires after my General Grabbers are done and I've been through this thread a few times. I plan on keeping the steelies as I really like them. Just wanted to clarify a few things that are unclear to me:

1. Are spacers absolutely necessary when getting the larger tire? If I'm keeping the stock steelies I mean......
No spacers required for going to the Toyo OC AT3 tires on stock wheels. Crash bars don't need removed either. You may get a tiny amount of rub on your sway bar - see photos above - not a concern for me.

2. Why would you trim the studs if you're putting on a spacer? Doesn't that make it so the studs are even less engaged with the lugnuts? I must be missing something here.
There are two styles of spacers. Thin spacers (<.75") just have holes that allow them to fit over the wheel suds. Your lug nuts then thread to existing studs, but will have less thread to engage with (see photo above)
Thicker spacers have their own studs and a pocket to for a nut to secure them on to the existing studs. In the case of the Bronco, the studs on the rear wheels are longer than the front so if using a 1" spacer they will protrude a bit beyond the spacer to wheel mating surface. This is ok for alloy wheels that have a pocket on the backside. The steel wheels have no pocket and the protruding studs would interfere with the wheel. A 1.25" spacer will not have this issue. See a few photos below of a 1" spacer from this thread: Anyone running 1 inch wheel spacers? | Page 4 | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

3. After putting on the larger tire, is recalibrating the speedometer with Forscan required?
Not required, but your speedo, odometer and mpg calcs will be off by about 6%. I used Forscan to adjust to match GPS speed.

4. Leveling/lifting required at all? I want to avoid doing too much modifying.
Nope, that's the best part about this tire size: It is truly plug and play. Just install them and no other mods needed. It brings the non-sas Black Diamond right near the capability of the Badlands and sas models. With the 34s, your ride height will be the same as a badlands and only 1.5" lower than a sasquatch. And since the badlands is on 33s, you'll have about a half inch more clearance under the axles.

Thanks to Scott, GiJo, redone, etc for all the info and photos.

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