35s or 37s…?

[Twister22]

I went with the Readylift 3.5" lift as it came with the rear link bar bracket. Black Rhino wheels 17"x8.5" +18 offset. 37"x12.50 17" Yokohama Geolander M/T

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[MEAT_GOD]

Might be necroposting, but have been wanting to ask. Currently got a non-SAS 2 door Big Bend 10spd, and previously was running upgraded 33's but got a 2 inch lift kit and crave the uppies. Anyone know of what suspension upgrades I'll need to do to get 37's? I'd rather do none at all, so if a substantial amount of upgrading is required (for actual off-roading, not just for looks) then I'll have to stick to the 35's.

 

[5GENIDN]

Might be necroposting, but have been wanting to ask. Currently got a non-SAS 2 door Big Bend 10spd, and previously was running upgraded 33's but got a 2 inch lift kit and crave the uppies. Anyone know of what suspension upgrades I'll need to do to get 37's? I'd rather do none at all, so if a substantial amount of upgrading is required (for actual off-roading, not just for looks) then I'll have to stick to the 35's.

The answer to that is very complicated and nuanced..... "for actual off-roading" ... Every type of off roading is different. You have to evaluate the type of off roading that you do and then identify what strains that will put on which parts..... then address your own concerns.

Personally with the type of off roading that I do... My first and foremost concern would be the Steering rack. (rack before tie rods in MY opinion) There are several ways to address that. Lots of pros and cons to each.

Second for me would be the M190 FDU.

Third is then the lift... Lots of different types and they all have their own pros and cons and they all have stresses that will cascade to different parts that will then create weaknesses that may need addressed. I worry about CVs and knuckles, rear axle and axle housing.

Then your lift that you choose may have drivability issues. do you need to address the track bar? Adjustable track bar and /or relocation brackets....

Like I said, A lot of issues to think through and I have only scratched the surface.

And... By the way... I am lifting and not sure if I will be on 38s or 40s.... but I am trying to think through everything as best I can and weighing the pros and cons to each choice.

 

[BlueBronco]

Currently got a non-SAS 2 door Big Bend 10spd, and previously was running upgraded 33's but got a 2 inch lift kit and crave the uppies. Anyone know of what suspension gearing upgrades I'll need to do to get 37's?

FIFY.
Do you have the 3.73 gearing or 4.27 that comes with the optional rear locker? If the former, then you should probably stop at 33's. If the later then 35's max.

As far as the OP, it is a use case scenario. Yes, the BL 2.3 manual with 4.7's will handle the 37's just fine. I have been running that combo for 2 years now and it is rock solid. However, mine is a weekend warrior and not a daily driver so I am not concerned about gas mileage and 6th gear. You may feel different. As far as a lift, I am not overly familiar with the 6112's so not sure if they are adequate or not for 37's. The good thing is you have plenty of time to research and decide if you are waiting on a MY24.

 

[userdude]

Might be necroposting, but have been wanting to ask. Currently got a non-SAS 2 door Big Bend 10spd, and previously was running upgraded 33's but got a 2 inch lift kit and crave the uppies. Anyone know of what suspension upgrades I'll need to do to get 37's? I'd rather do none at all, so if a substantial amount of upgrading is required (for actual off-roading, not just for looks) then I'll have to stick to the 35's.

Get the size tires you actually need. If you don't have the gearing to spin a 37 effectively, and you don't have reinforced steering, and you don't have enough room for them to fit, that's a lot of work/expense to get there. Note the first two are fairly solvable, but lifts cause strain and eventually more wear and don't actually improve clearance, since they're not moving the axle. They only make room for bigger wheels that add the clearance through (half the) tire height difference.

Bigger tires get you more clearance, which is good for off roading, but they cause a lot of other updates/problems to occur around them, and if just the lift sounds like a problem you don't want to be too complicated, I'd say stay smaller.

 

[MEAT_GOD]

Get the size tires you actually need. If you don't have the gearing to spin a 37 effectively, and you don't have reinforced steering, and you don't have enough room for them to fit, that's a lot of work/expense to get there. Note the first two of fairly solvable, but lifts cause strain and eventually more wear and don't actually improve clearance, since they're not moving the axle. They only make room for bigger wheels that add the clearance through (half the) tire height difference.

Bigger tires get you more clearance, which is good for off roading, but they cause a lot of other updates/problems to occur around them, and if just the lift sounds like a problem you don't want to be too complicated, I'd say stay smaller.

Most likely don't have the gearing for 37's. But will the 3.73 gearing work for 35's fine? Or is that something I'll have to address?

 

[HeliPilot]

I’m biased towards 37s.

 

[userdude]

Most likely don't have the gearing for 37's. But will the 3.73 gearing work for 35's fine? Or is that something I'll have to address?

Uhh, I would say no but I'm not an expert on matching that. I don't think you'll appreciate the performance regardless. You might consider 34's.

@BlueBronco tends to know about these things, so I would consult his message above mine.

 

[MEAT_GOD]

FIFY.
Do you have the 3.73 gearing or 4.27 that comes with the optional rear locker? If the former, then you should probably stop at 33's. If the later then 35's max.

As far as the OP, it is a use case scenario. Yes, the BL 2.3 manual with 4.7's will handle the 37's just fine. I have been running that combo for 2 years now and it is rock solid. However, mine is a weekend warrior and not a daily driver so I am not concerned about gas mileage and 6th gear. You may feel different. As far as a lift, I am not overly familiar with the 6112's so not sure if they are adequate or not for 37's. The good thing is you have plenty of time to research and decide if you are waiting on a MY24.

I've got the 3.73's. Gas mileage couldn't matter less to me, but highway performance and reliability does. I've got the Readylift 2" kit and usually don't do 75-ish on the highway all too often; wind noise and whatnot. But if even 35's can dramatically affect my performance, then I'll probably stay away from them.

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

I love my 2 door Sasquatch and the 35"s have taken me on trails that were above what I thought I would try. I'm comfortable on trails rated 4 & 5 and up to a 6s, I have no problem with a 6 rating due to 2 ft steps, but a boulder field after being washed out from a high amount snow run off, all the dirt and smaller rocks were gone and it was more than I bargained for; not looking to do that again.

A fellow forum member is running 39" tires on a four door, but he has a body lift to avoid the CV joints being at an extreme angle and upgraded everything steering and suspension related. So, to do it right get expensive real fast.

 

[bb163]

37s and don’t look back…

Our Bronco on 37s vs our Bronco on 35s… no squinting required

Info on the lift, wheel, and tire setup on your 2 door? Looks perfect!

 

[EvanPeterson]

Info on the lift, wheel, and tire setup on your 2 door? Looks perfect!

Thanks!

Currently running Icon Stage 3 coilovers, DirtyLife Mesa wheels, 17x9 -14 offset, 37x12.50 STT Pro tires!

 

[Ninjak]

Well, I started as a NoN-SAS but I knew I was going to do my lift. I have the Fabtech lift and I went 37's Love it.

 

[Bronco-eer]

Coming from a few lifted Jeeps, and lifted tundra with 35’s. Here’s my take. I have a 24 WT on order and am on the fence like you. The 37’s look best with 4 dr. But having changed the highway feel of my other vehicles, especially my Tundra. I’m hesitant. I took a truck that drove like a caddy stock, and turned it into a jeep on the highway. So if you wheel with it, have money to fix components, and don’t mind potentially changing the feel of on road driving, go 37’s.

 

[CarbonSteel]

37's (anything other Load Range C) and CVs would seem to be a bad combination in stock form given the increase in unsprung weight not to mention the gearing that could be needed.

Solid axles and 37's typically break/wear things out if they are not upgraded. Stock CVs, 37's and rock crawling does not seem to be something that would last very long in comparison.

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