ARB Brushless switch wiring

[KingLeonidas]

I have a ARB Brushless and I want to wire it to the factory ARB switch. Has anyone done this with their brushless? If so, how'd you do it? Most of the videos and articles I've seen show the twin brushed version, not the brushless. The few videos and articles I have seen, those people wired it to their upfitter. I want to wire it to the ARB switch under the hood so it doesn't use up an upfitter AUX slot. Hopefully someone could steer me in the right direction. Thanks!

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[gbub]

I am in the process of wiring my ARB brushless single. It looks like you would just put the switch in the small red wire circuit. Then connect the switch to a fused 12V power source. That small red wire is the same wire that is used to connect to the Aux switch.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I have a ARB Brushless and I want to wire it to the factory ARB switch. Has anyone done this with their brushless? If so, how'd you do it? Most of the videos and articles I've seen show the twin brushed version, not the brushless. The few videos and articles I have seen, those people wired it to their upfitter. I want to wire it to the ARB switch under the hood so it doesn't use up an upfitter AUX slot. Hopefully someone could steer me in the right direction. Thanks!

Pretty easy.

On the brushless air compressor is a harness that has 4 small wires. The red wire is your TRIGGER wire.

You need to provide power to this to turn the compressor on.

So you would use a Switch to do this. The switch needs (at a minimum) +12VDC going into it, so that when its switched ON it sends that voltage to the trigger wire. You should also run -12VDC to the switch so that the switch light turns on when it's active.

Here is your switch diagram taken from our harness:

In this example the BLACK wire is -12VDC. The RED wire is +12VDC. The BLUE wire is your trigger wire (so that goes to the compressor, in your case that's the red wire on that 4-wire bundle).

 

[KingLeonidas]

Pretty easy.

On the brushless air compressor is a harness that has 4 small wires. The red wire is your TRIGGER wire.

You need to provide power to this to turn the compressor on.

So you would use a Switch to do this. The switch needs (at a minimum) +12VDC going into it, so that when its switched ON it sends that voltage to the trigger wire. You should also run -12VDC to the switch so that the switch light turns on when it's active.

Here is your switch diagram taken from our harness:

In this example the BLACK wire is -12VDC. The RED wire is +12VDC. The BLUE wire is your trigger wire (so that goes to the compressor, in your case that's the red wire on that 4-wire bundle).

Thanks for the advice. I asked ARB and they said to wire it to the spot that says isolation switch. Apparently there’s different way of accomplishing the same thing. If I wire it the way you are saying, can you cut off the locker and isolation switch parts? Hoping to clean up the wiring a bit.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Thanks for the advice. I asked ARB and they said to wire it to the spot that says isolation switch. Apparently there’s different way of accomplishing the same thing. If I wire it the way you are saying, can you cut off the locker and isolation switch parts? Hoping to clean up the wiring a bit.

Did you buy your kit from us? If so, follow the instructions that came with our kit only use the information provided above to wire a switch in.

You don't need to follow the confusing ARB instructions if you are not running lockers or any of those other things. I usually cut/tape off the other 3 wires not used on that 4-wire harness and just focus on that red wire as it's the trigger wire. The rest are not needed unless you are doing lockers.

 

[KingLeonidas]

Did you buy your kit from us? If so, follow the instructions that came with our kit only use the information provided above to wire a switch in.

You don't need to follow the confusing ARB instructions if you are not running lockers or any of those other things. I usually cut/tape off the other 3 wires not used on that 4-wire harness and just focus on that red wire as it's the trigger wire. The rest are not needed unless you are doing lockers.

Yes I have your kit. So cut off the end connector and wire accordingly?

 

[KingLeonidas]

Did you buy your kit from us? If so, follow the instructions that came with our kit only use the information provided above to wire a switch in.

You don't need to follow the confusing ARB instructions if you are not running lockers or any of those other things. I usually cut/tape off the other 3 wires not used on that 4-wire harness and just focus on that red wire as it's the trigger wire. The rest are not needed unless you are doing lockers.

Also if I wire this way will the error detection still work on the compressor. I’m not worried about the lights because the switch will be under the hood and I won’t be seeing that while driving but having it beep the error codes would be helpful.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Also if I wire this way will the error detection still work on the compressor. I’m not worried about the lights because the switch will be under the hood and I won’t be seeing that while driving but having it beep the error codes would be helpful.

Just follow our instructions. Instead of running that red wire to the upfitter you'll just follow my instructions above and wire it to the ARB switch. Then bring in +12VDC and -12VDC to the switch as well and connect it accordingly.

 

[gbub]

I did not want another switch under the hood. I just ran the big red wire to the battery with a fuse of course. I also ran the big black/white wire to chassis ground. The small red wire (trigger wire) goes to #6 AUX wire. It works fine that way but I probably have power to the compressor all the time but it is not used until I turn on Aux 6 switch. Is that a problem?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I did not want another switch under the hood. I just ran the big red wire to the battery with a fuse of course. I also ran the big black/white wire to chassis ground. The small red wire (trigger wire) goes to #6 AUX wire. It works fine that way but I probably have power to the compressor all the time but it is not used until I turn on Aux 6 switch. Is that a problem?

That’s how your supposed to install it - the small red wire (on the brushless… it’s the small purple wire on the regular twin) is the relay trigger

 

[gbub]

I am aware of that information. My concern is, when I hook up the big red wire to the battery with the AUX switch off, the compressor beeps one time. That tells me the compressor has power but not activated. Does the compressor have a draw on the battery when the AUX switch is off with some kind of monitoring system?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I am aware of that information. My concern is, when I hook up the big red wire to the battery with the AUX switch off, the compressor beeps one time. That tells me the compressor has power but not activated. Does the compressor have a draw on the battery when the AUX switch is off with some kind of monitoring system?

The new brushless do have some technology built in. But there's no draw upon initial power connection.

The same way your truck's relays will click if you re-connect the battery lead.

 

[tcovington]

The new brushless do have some technology built in. But there's no draw upon initial power connection.

The same way your truck's relays will click if you re-connect the battery lead.

I have a question related to the 60A fuses that ARB supplies for the brushless twin. They're rated at 60A. It appears that the ARB-supplied connectors are Weather Pack 480 series, which is only rated to 42A. It seems fundamentally wrong to have a fuse that can handle more than the connector. Am I missing something?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

I have a question related to the 60A fuses that ARB supplies for the brushless twin. They're rated at 60A. It appears that the ARB-supplied connectors are Weather Pack 480 series, which is only rated to 42A. It seems fundamentally wrong to have a fuse that can handle more than the connector. Am I missing something?

48amps from my research on the connectors. The Brushless have a maximum output of 90 amps, so 45 amps per connector/compressor.

The power harness uses dual 60 amp MIDI fuses.

It's not operating at 120 amps (60 amps per). The fuses are always slightly rated higher then the actual load requirement.

 

[tcovington]

I understand that you'd want the fuse to be higher than the load, even if using a slow-blow fuse. And that each motor should draw a max of 45A. But am I wrong to think that the connector should at least be rated higher than the fuse? I was under the impression that the fuse is there to protect the wiring (including the connections).

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