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Audio Upgrade Help

chrismcurran

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Hello all! I’m officially on information overload so thought I would reach out to you all.

Looking to upgrade my Non-BO system. I already have the SRQ enclosure with Kicker L7 8” and the DV8 rear speaker and light Mount bar. All sitting waiting to be installed with whichever direction I go.

I would like to replace the kick panel and dash speakers (thinking JL Audio C2’s) and a pair of marine tower pod speakers to the DV8 bar. Then, the 8” L7.

Just not sure on which amp(s) to install and other components to pull it all together. The Kicker Key amps look great! Same with other amps.

Suggestions on how to pull this all together? Speaker, amp, and other components?

Thanks all!
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BroncoAZ

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The Kicker Key is good for a minor upgrade, I have it installed with my stock speakers currently and it is a significant improvement, but I think anyone serious about audio will outgrow the Key amps pretty quick. The AudioControl 5 channel setup that Plugnplaykits.com sells is very appealing and would run everything.

I’m going to try biamping a set of 6.5” Morel components (about $265) with the tweeter in the dashboard off the Key 200.4 and I already have the 500.1 for a sub. I’m waiting for the JL audio sub to be released, or I’ll go with the SRQ like yours. I’m going to remove my rear speakers and pods as I don’t care for rear fill and currently can’t hear anything from back there anyway. If it doesn’t work out well I’ll upgrade and sell the kicker stuff.
 

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It depends how much money you want to throw at this ultimately.

The Kicker Key is a solid “starter” upgrade because it’s super compact and a 4-channel amp. Perfect because the base audio system is a 4-channel setup. There are also many “plug and play” kits available for the Kicker Key from sites such as @plugnplaykits and Hoel Wiring.

If you want to go a bit beyond the factory setup, you may want to consider a bigger/better amp. I like @BroncoAZ suggestion of the Audio Control 5, but there are tons of options available—Crutchfield is probably the best website to get a sense of what’s available out there.

As far as speakers go, no objections to what you have selected. I personally went with Kicker KS series, but again… lots of options. I will say the factory 6.5” kick panels are actually pretty solid, so if budget starts getting tight the first thing I would do is drop the 6.5” upgrade from your list. Same can’t be said for the 4” speakers however… they are definitely lackluster.
 

ejaffe

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My final build includes an Audio Control LC 1300 amp, kicker KS speakers in dash and kick panel, 12" Kicker Comp Rt downfire loaded enclosure, SSV 6.5" pods and 6.5" Kicker CS speakers in the rear. It works perfect. Probably $2k all in. For $2-3K more you can use Focal speakers and separate the amp using a 4 channel and a mono amp for more power.
 

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Anyone replacing the “dummy sub” on the MY23 6 speaker subwoofer delete package?
 

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chrismcurran

chrismcurran

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I appreciate the responses. There is just so much info out there that I’m a little overwhelmed. I’m not looking to go crazy with this, but want to do it ‘right’ the first time. Not looking to win competitions, but want good clean sound and bass.

The speakers seem to be the easy part. Hard part is making it all ‘play well’ from the factory head unit. That’s amongst my biggest head scratcher.

I don’t mind stepping up for the amp if an AudioControl would be the best. Don't know if I need to go the JL Audio Fix 86 (or similar route).

For full disclosure, I haven't had the time to really get into all of the technical details.

Any advice from those who have upgraded - good, bad, would do this again, would not do this again, or would go this direction if doing over would be appreciated.
 

ejaffe

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I appreciate the responses. There is just so much info out there that I’m a little overwhelmed. I’m not looking to go crazy with this, but want to do it ‘right’ the first time. Not looking to win competitions, but want good clean sound and bass.

The speakers seem to be the easy part. Hard part is making it all ‘play well’ from the factory head unit. That’s amongst my biggest head scratcher.

I don’t mind stepping up for the amp if an AudioControl would be the best. Don't know if I need to go the JL Audio Fix 86 (or similar route).

For full disclosure, I haven't had the time to really get into all of the technical details.

Any advice from those who have upgraded - good, bad, would do this again, would not do this again, or would go this direction if doing over would be appreciated.
I hear you and yes, there are a million ways you can go. They system I described is good quality, the sound is well balanced, clear and crisp - even at higher volumes- and the bass is present but not overwhelming. I also suggest you use high quality wiring from KnuKonceptz or similar company.
 

Copperhorse73

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I went with the Kicker 5 channel amp from @plugnplaykits and it’s awesome. Another benefit is that u can set it in fader off position and that will send the front signal to both front and rear and it really brings the rear alive
 

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Choose the speakers you want and go from there.

From the sound of it, you would be fine with both key systems - especially sub, but if you wanted more diversity for future changes, I would do the LC1300 system as that would suffice for any setup in the future including a larger/power hungry sub.
 

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The Kicker Key is good for a minor upgrade, I have it installed with my stock speakers currently and it is a significant improvement, but I think anyone serious about audio will outgrow the Key amps pretty quick. The AudioControl 5 channel setup that Plugnplaykits.com sells is very appealing and would run everything.

I’m going to try biamping a set of 6.5” Morel components (about $265) with the tweeter in the dashboard off the Key 200.4 and I already have the 500.1 for a sub. I’m waiting for the JL audio sub to be released, or I’ll go with the SRQ like yours. I’m going to remove my rear speakers and pods as I don’t care for rear fill and currently can’t hear anything from back there anyway. If it doesn’t work out well I’ll upgrade and sell the kicker stuff.
THis is essentially what I did and works fine, although in retrospect I would have done the audiocontrol for more versatility with options. I have BLAM Audio separates with tweeter in dash and kicker 500.1 powering sub. Sounds great overall.
 

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Everyone has pretty much summed it up. If you are going to have someone else install it for you (if I read right) you might as well go with a better amp than the Kicker Keys. If you want cheap and easy, Kicker Keys are awesome. From the looks of what you want to do with the speakers, the 200.4 will probably not be enough and you will upgrade later anyway.

I will add, a real DSP will make a huge difference. Either standalone or integrated into the amp. Audio Control, Audison and JL all have good ones that are not crazy expensive. Once I started using DSPs in my car audio, I would not ever build a system without one.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/#post-1403301
 
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chrismcurran

chrismcurran

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Thanks everyone! I may have a shop install at least some of it. Haven’t decided yet.

It sounds like going with an Audio Control amp may be the best solution. Which JL Audio amps would be recommended to ensure there is full range to all speakers?

For those that went with a component set of speakers upfront, what did you go with and how do you like it?
 

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BIOHAZARDCYCLES

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Anyone replacing the “dummy sub” on the MY23 6 speaker subwoofer delete package?
I JUST CUT IT IN HALF AND MOUNTED MY TWEETER & 4" DASH SPEAKER AMP THERE.. FIT INSIDE OF IT PERFECTLY.. ILL TAKE A PIC TOMORROW..
 
 


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