B&O Sound System Upgrade Tip

[broncorik]

the front speakers likely have more rolloff than the sub.

If that is the case I have not noticed...and there is no benefit or rationale to have bass roll-off on them as-is...but I can assure others that using the OEM harness resulted in very little bass and other wonky behavior (and using the harness I got from Sounds Good made a HUGE difference). The guys at Sounds Good work only on a few types of vehicles, Broncos being one of them, and they seem to have the most knowledge out there regarding the Bronco and the nuances of the B&O and non-B&O system (and they are very generous about sharing their knowledge without trying to angle a sale). The only legit way to fix the B&O system is using a decoder/replacement actual DSP and amp(s), so I would rather have had the non-B&O. Additionally, I wasted a crap ton of money on speakers, only to have them end up with less volume than my OEM ones (because the new speakers, although they can handle more watts, NEED more watts to reach the same db as the OEM speakers. I used to cruise around at around level 11-12, but with new speakers needed to turn it up much higher to be able to hear the music with windows down. I put the old speakers back in, and along with the new sub, much better. If I want to put new speakers back in, I would buy the decoder and DSP and some additional amps and then run the speakers off the new amps.

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[WheresMyCar]

Wondering how the bass blockers worked and which ones you used?

Skar Audio SK300HZBB-PR Elite... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D7G2RQW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Mango&Moose]

Installed PRV 5 minutes ago. Muuuccch better. Thanks.

 

[MKZoom]

If that is the case I have not noticed...and there is no benefit or rationale to have bass roll-off on them as-is...but I can assure others that using the OEM harness resulted in very little bass and other wonky behavior (and using the harness I got from Sounds Good made a HUGE difference). The guys at Sounds Good work only on a few types of vehicles, Broncos being one of them, and they seem to have the most knowledge out there regarding the Bronco and the nuances of the B&O and non-B&O system (and they are very generous about sharing their knowledge without trying to angle a sale). The only legit way to fix the B&O system is using a decoder/replacement actual DSP and amp(s), so I would rather have had the non-B&O. Additionally, I wasted a crap ton of money on speakers, only to have them end up with less volume than my OEM ones (because the new speakers, although they can handle more watts, NEED more watts to reach the same db as the OEM speakers. I used to cruise around at around level 11-12, but with new speakers needed to turn it up much higher to be able to hear the music with windows down. I put the old speakers back in, and along with the new sub, much better. If I want to put new speakers back in, I would buy the decoder and DSP and some additional amps and then run the speakers off the new amps.

the front lower speakers are smaller than the subwoofer so roll off to prevent wasted low frequency signal on them is likely happening. the subwoofer extends MUCH lower so its rolloff will be receiving more LF than the kick panel speakers. if you were tying the two channels together or only using one short detection in the amp was probably tripping and preventing any real signal.

 

[mpeugeot]

If you take a scan tool to the Bronco after removal of the B&O DSP, you will find the APIM and ACM throw codes. The APIM code was easy to get rid of, but I have not figured out how to disable the ACM code.

ACM
Code: U0238 - Lost Communication With Digital Audio Control Module

To fix the APIM error code after removing the factory DSP change:

7D0-01-01 Axxx-xxxx-xx
Becomes
7D0-01-01 2xxx-xxxx-xx

If anyone knows how to suppress the ACM U0238 code, post it up.

ACM will also throw codes for speakers being open. I believe that changing the ACM speaker configuration may do that, but I was having some issues with volume yesterday (which may or may not be related).

Disable internal speaker outputs on the ACM:

727-01-01 xx3F-3Fxx-xx

As these should be routed to the new A2B amplifier/DSP.

 

[broncorik]

the front lower speakers are smaller than the subwoofer so roll off to prevent wasted low frequency signal on them is likely happening. the subwoofer extends MUCH lower so its rolloff will be receiving more LF than the kick panel speakers. if you were tying the two channels together or only using one short detection in the amp was probably tripping and preventing any real signal.

I looped in the Sounds Good guru...

 

[bradcd]

I finally installed the PRV 4MR60-4 in the dash center. I'm not impressed and almost feel like it's a step backwards. Did not use any pre-made connection adapters, I soldered and used spade connectors. Did not use a bass blocker and placed a small amount of Polyfil loosely in the cavity. At the same time I also placed loose Polyfil in the left and right upper dash speakers. This PRV center is the only speaker I've swapped from stock. Reaching down in the dash cavities I was amazed at the random amount of harsh shapes and passageways. After the change, the muddiness is reduced but everything sounds more hollow, as in down in body and weight. Maybe the Polyfil is blocking some needed airflow? The PRV definitely is louder than the stock center speaker but that's just because it's more efficient right? What have I done wrong?

 

[DAYDREAMER]

I have not seen this attachment from B&O till yesterday

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