B&O System - Looking to Upgrade

[MisterOneTwo]

do you have any photos of the dynamat they put in to help with the rattle?! still working with the stock B&O but the rattle from the sub at higher volumes is enemy #1

Hi, I don't unfortunately, but they put quiet tape on the plastic accessory pieces on the tailgate. And then on then behind the plastic panels on the left and right sides of the cargo area. My sub fires directly at the right side and there is no rattle, but I can imagine how the B&O sub might introduce rattle since it is in its own plastic enclosure and right next to the right side plastic panel.

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[j_anderson]

I deleted the app and re-installed, but I didn't try that! And one thing I didn't think of, was I sent the request to my vehicle when it was in-transit to me, so maybe that's why. I'll give that a shot - Thank you!

Edit: Well, I deleted my vehicle profile and re-added it... And now Securialert doesn't show up anymore. Thanks a lot @j_anderson I guess technically it did solve my problem, lol.

you don't have it under vehicle/safety and security/ secure alert?

 

[Hossfire]

I feel like everyone with the factory sub is having this same issue. I know I am also experiencing a rattle at certain frequencies when the volume is about 11 or so.

@Theherofails had a similar problem. The sub was rattling some of the nearby trim. I think he stuck a couple pieces of foam behind a trim panel.

 

[604Bronco]

you don't have it under vehicle/safety and security/ secure alert?

It showed up again today; there was an odd delay.

Unfortunately, it still doesn't work. Oh well, I don't really care all that much. It's just the scheduling piece that doesn't work. The Securialert function still works - Just annoying to see it pop-up every time I open a door. I wanted to just set it for the evenings. @Ford Motor Company should disable alerts if you have your key fob on you and opening a door.

 

[j_anderson]

It showed up again today; there was an odd delay.

Unfortunately, it still doesn't work. Oh well, I don't really care all that much. It's just the scheduling piece that doesn't work. The Securialert function still works - Just annoying to see it pop-up every time I open a door. I wanted to just set it for the evenings. @Ford Motor Company should disable alerts if you have your key fob on you and opening a door.

I had to to mess with mine a bit to get it working right.
You would think setting a schedule of when to alert you would be as simple as putting in the start/stop times

I wanted to only be alerted during the overnight hours during the week.

what I found is, I was getting alerted of door open events outside the schedule I had set. I was about to disable the feature altogether.

Try setting up your schedule during the time of day where you want the feature off.

Toggle the feature off then build your schedule. This worked for me

 

[604Bronco]

I had to to mess with mine a bit to get it working right.
You would think setting a schedule of when to alert you would be as simple as putting in the start/stop times

I wanted to only be alerted during the overnight hours during the week.

what I found is, I was getting alerted of door open events outside the schedule I had set. I was about to disable the feature altogether.

Try setting up your schedule during the time of day where you want the feature off.

Toggle the feature off then build your schedule. This worked for me

Thanks, but I tried this just now - Still the same error. I’ try again after the next software update.

Appreciate it!

 

[cigartexan]

do you have any photos of the dynamat they put in to help with the rattle?! still working with the stock B&O but the rattle from the sub at higher volumes is enemy #1

They sell the m precut for Bronco now! https://www.dynamatstore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=44

 

[RFMETZ]

Actually lists 2021 Bronco in their compatibility chart. I ordered one, but will be a few weeks before I can build out my system.

Just curious if you installed the Nav TV ZEN-A2B yet and had any feedback? I have an audio installer ordering one for me along with an amp and new speakers.

 

[Geo]

I'm picking up my 2DR from a local audio shop tomorrow and was told similar things that the OP mentioned. I had them install a JL XD600/1v2 and HO112-W6V3. They wired the remote to Aux 6 so I can kill the amp and take the box out for extra cargo when needed which will be rare for me.

I asked about replacing the 4s and 6.5s and they said it would be a marginal if any difference. They weren't pushy but said adding an amp would be recommended with the replacement speakers. And noted the Zen A2B requirement to replace the B&O amp. So I'm going to drive it a while, then maybe replace the dash and rear pod speakers myself, a little more worried about the kick replacement. If I like it, great, if not, I'll consider the amp/Zen.

They recently installed JL vex pods for another customer's Bronco, without an amp replacement, and they were happy with the results, since that moves the rear pods up to 6.5s from 4s.

Here's some photos of my install. They did some dynamat and also quiet tape on the tailgate plastic pieces to help with rattle. They removed the stock B&O sub, and put the JL amp in its place. I hated the B&O sub.

I would consider myself an audiophile, I have a pretty nasty KEF THX speaker setup in our media room, just not sure I want to drop another $3-4K into the Bronco for this just yet. Hoping the sub upgrade is enough for a while!

I'm interested in the VEX pods you mentioned. Any idea how I could get a picture of their placements?

 

[BRBlue]

I can 100% confirm that simply replacing the B&O speakers with aftermarket ones makes a huge improvement. The key is to choose a speaker with the highest sensitivity rating possible. This is because the factory amp only puts out so many watts and a speaker with a higher sensitivity rating will make more efficient use of the limited power and therefore play louder and have less distortion.

Crutchfield lists speakers that are compatible with the Bronco and you can sort by sensitivity. I went with the Hertz DCX 100.3 for the front corners, center, and rears. Upgrading the kick panel speakers next. I also Dynamated the rear cargo area, subwoofer enclosure, and inside of the plastic panel covering the sub. It helped with the rattles and the bass seems punchier now.

I know a lot of haters on here mock any attempt to record the before and after sound improvement but you can definitely hear the difference in this video. Right side is stock B&O and left side is the upgraded Hertz speaker.

UPDATE: I just upgraded the kick panels to Hertz DSK 170.3 6.75” woofers. Definite improvement in mid bass and low end response. I’m upgrading the sub and adding a Kicker Key 500.1 to round things out

 

[TABadlands]

Ya I thought it was commonly known XM radio is highly compressed and sounds like ass. Nobody should judge any audio system on XM radio. That said, the B&O is pretty craptacular for a premium audio experience. I will be doing speaker swaps, waiting on someone to find a sub that fits and works. Total speaker swap with premium speakers is as far as I will go personally.

I agree check out the Kicker 48CWR82. Not sure if it's an easy subwoofer replacement? But it probably wouldn't take much to mod the install. Along with a Kicker Key 500.1 amp. Should give some nice thumping bass.

 

[JBMas]

Ok...the audio learning curve is steep. I have a 22 BadSquatch with lux B&O. I have reading all the threads and sound like replacing speakers is one way to tackle it but you still have a system that is broken up with not all speakers even going through amp and can't be tuned. A week of research and it seems tackling the amp first which requires the A2B DSP "pre amp" is the way to do it but the more I learn, the more questions I have. Has anyone gone this route with a the Zen or other DSP and what Amp do you recommend (how many channels needed). B&O system says 10 speakers but I only count 8. Once you put in a quality DSP and amp, do the stock speakers sound better or do you still need to replace them all? I would just like to hear clean, crisp audio separation of instruments, etc. B&O just seems flat but head unit is nice.

 

[Wolfeman]

Ok...the audio learning curve is steep. I have a 22 BadSquatch with lux B&O. I have reading all the threads and sound like replacing speakers is one way to tackle it but you still have a system that is broken up with not all speakers even going through amp and can't be tuned. A week of research and it seems tackling the amp first which requires the A2B DSP "pre amp" is the way to do it but the more I learn, the more questions I have. Has anyone gone this route with a the Zen or other DSP and what Amp do you recommend (how many channels needed). B&O system says 10 speakers but I only count 8. Once you put in a quality DSP and amp, do the stock speakers sound better or do you still need to replace them all? I would just like to hear clean, crisp audio separation of instruments, etc. B&O just seems flat but head unit is nice.

I doubt anyone willing to invest in installing the A2B plans on leaving the stock speakers in.

The 2 extra speakers you are probably missing are just the fact that the front two dash speakers also have a tweeter (2-way speaker)

 

[BostonGuy]

Ok...the audio learning curve is steep. I have a 22 BadSquatch with lux B&O. I have reading all the threads and sound like replacing speakers is one way to tackle it but you still have a system that is broken up with not all speakers even going through amp and can't be tuned. A week of research and it seems tackling the amp first which requires the A2B DSP "pre amp" is the way to do it but the more I learn, the more questions I have. Has anyone gone this route with a the Zen or other DSP and what Amp do you recommend (how many channels needed). B&O system says 10 speakers but I only count 8. Once you put in a quality DSP and amp, do the stock speakers sound better or do you still need to replace them all? I would just like to hear clean, crisp audio separation of instruments, etc. B&O just seems flat but head unit is nice.

I'm with you, I'm really lost here. I just wish the system had a little more power. Or a full replacement kit for the speakers. I'm a simple guy.

 

[mpeugeot]

Ok...the audio learning curve is steep. I have a 22 BadSquatch with lux B&O. I have reading all the threads and sound like replacing speakers is one way to tackle it but you still have a system that is broken up with not all speakers even going through amp and can't be tuned. A week of research and it seems tackling the amp first which requires the A2B DSP "pre amp" is the way to do it but the more I learn, the more questions I have. Has anyone gone this route with a the Zen or other DSP and what Amp do you recommend (how many channels needed). B&O system says 10 speakers but I only count 8. Once you put in a quality DSP and amp, do the stock speakers sound better or do you still need to replace them all? I would just like to hear clean, crisp audio separation of instruments, etc. B&O just seems flat but head unit is nice.

Ford math - 2 way speakers count as 2 speakers.

So now I have a B&O 15 speaker system, yet I simply replaced all of the speakers except for the sub-woofer so far.

Yes, replace them all. I just have not bothered with the sub-woofer yet. It makes one hell of a difference.

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