- First Name
- Jesse
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2022
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 30
- Reaction score
- 50
- Location
- Houston,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Bronco & 2006 Mustang GT
- Your Bronco Model
- Wildtrak
- Thread starter
- #1
I finally got around to installing the intake upgrade parts that I bought on sale late last year onto my '22 WT. Wanted to provide details on the installation process for others interested to reference. I purchased pretty much everything directly from Panda Motorworks:
Reference links to instructions:
aFe Momentum GT Air Intake Instructions
aFe BladeRunner Aluminum Hot and Cold Pipes Instructions
Cobb Stock Placement Intercooler Instructions
Panda Power Module YouTube Install video (2.7L starts at 1:30 mark)
P.S. Mishimoto's videos do a good job showing the locations of certain hard to see spots so that was helpful. I also have a downloaded copy of the Ford service manual information for the Ford Bronco available on this forum to reference additional removal and installation instructions with required torque values listed ;-)
To start I went ahead and removed both Front Fender Mouldings and Fender Splash Shields to give better access to the turbos, etc. Next I removed the Engine Front Undershield version I have that goes with the plastic bumper. After that I followed the aFe Air Intake instructions for removal (I recall the bolt in step 16 being one of the tougher spots to get a socket onto tucked underneith holding the factory turbo intake tube passenger side bracket to the engine block, more on that part later) followed by the aFe Aluminum Hot and Cold Pipes removal instructions (I recall step 22 being a fun one in those removal steps with the small nut requiring backup using a 10mm wrench, much better view in Misimoto video. The drivers side hot charge pipe, aka Turbocharger Outlet Pipe LH, from step 12 has a grommet holding it in place also, fyi.). Whenever removing anything near the turbos, I had clean towels to stuff into the openings to prevent unwanted debris from getting in. I removed the stock intercooler next and used a jack stand versus a helper to hold it while I removed the bolts which worked well. Since I had the turbos covered and safe, I went ahead and took this opportunity to install the new step cooler spark plugs that come with the Panda Power Module following the Ford Service manual torque specs. Used compressed air to clean out before removing Coil on Plugs and prior to removing spark plugs. Went back in with dielectric grease where helpful, i.e. not on any connection points but on the boots and body section of the plugs only. Installed the Cobb intercooler which went right in with an extra hand from my buddy so as not to accidentally have it fall and bend any fins or what not.
I diligently followed the remaining aFe installation procedures and did not tighten the clamps yet as instructed. Well I'm not sure how they got back to all the clamps near the engine front cover later, but I had to remove a good portion of the upper pipes and new CAI pipe to tighten those clamps and reassemble again to reach that area myself! Practice makes perfect, right. After reinstalling the passenger front fender moulding and splash shield, I decided to reattach the now unsupported peg of my coolant reservoir hose by creating a new attachment point. Since the peg is a wide one, I used a drill bit to make two small adjacent holes in the fender splash shield that secure the peg pretty darn good considering. I'm hoping that by drilling holes and only cutting across the middle it'll be less prone to tear the fender splash shield material over time.
With the intake items mechanically shored up and the new spark plugs installed, it was on to the Panda Power Module. Video was straight forward and there is a piece of paper in the pigtail bag showing the correct orientation of the plugs as they can be inserted upside down. Unfortunatley since I re-routed the wires a couple of times for fit and function, I accidentally got one of the connectors inserted bass ackwards by the time I did my initial restart after connecting the battery. So I did get a check engine light initially but found my error, disconnected the battery to swap back the correct way, and the light went away after a couple restarts the next day. App is installed and connects fine with my phone's bluetooth (remember to get the serial number before plugging in the cables to the main unit and mounting. I had to cut a zip tie to read it for installing the app, but they supplied extra ones).
I'll upload the pictures from my phone and see how well this helps with cooler engine temps on the highway and while towing. I've paid for enough dyno runs for my Stang, but can feel a significant difference on the default Sports setting 5 with only light to moderate pedal usage on the streets already. Good pull through RPMs with smooth sound while accelerating. Turbo pop off valve sounds are even more delightful when coming off the hammer as well ;-)
Before:
During:
After:
Intercooler comparison:
Side view with better shot of upgraded passenger turbo piping and Suzy Blue in the background:
- Panda Power Module - 2.7L Ford Bronco
- aFe Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System w/ Pro 5R Media p/n 50-70081R (purchased a prefilter direct from aFe as well)
- aFe Blade Runner Aluminum Charge Pipe both Hot and Cold p/n 46-20584-B
- Cobb Front Mount Intercooler p/n 7R1500-BK
Reference links to instructions:
aFe Momentum GT Air Intake Instructions
aFe BladeRunner Aluminum Hot and Cold Pipes Instructions
Cobb Stock Placement Intercooler Instructions
Panda Power Module YouTube Install video (2.7L starts at 1:30 mark)
P.S. Mishimoto's videos do a good job showing the locations of certain hard to see spots so that was helpful. I also have a downloaded copy of the Ford service manual information for the Ford Bronco available on this forum to reference additional removal and installation instructions with required torque values listed ;-)
To start I went ahead and removed both Front Fender Mouldings and Fender Splash Shields to give better access to the turbos, etc. Next I removed the Engine Front Undershield version I have that goes with the plastic bumper. After that I followed the aFe Air Intake instructions for removal (I recall the bolt in step 16 being one of the tougher spots to get a socket onto tucked underneith holding the factory turbo intake tube passenger side bracket to the engine block, more on that part later) followed by the aFe Aluminum Hot and Cold Pipes removal instructions (I recall step 22 being a fun one in those removal steps with the small nut requiring backup using a 10mm wrench, much better view in Misimoto video. The drivers side hot charge pipe, aka Turbocharger Outlet Pipe LH, from step 12 has a grommet holding it in place also, fyi.). Whenever removing anything near the turbos, I had clean towels to stuff into the openings to prevent unwanted debris from getting in. I removed the stock intercooler next and used a jack stand versus a helper to hold it while I removed the bolts which worked well. Since I had the turbos covered and safe, I went ahead and took this opportunity to install the new step cooler spark plugs that come with the Panda Power Module following the Ford Service manual torque specs. Used compressed air to clean out before removing Coil on Plugs and prior to removing spark plugs. Went back in with dielectric grease where helpful, i.e. not on any connection points but on the boots and body section of the plugs only. Installed the Cobb intercooler which went right in with an extra hand from my buddy so as not to accidentally have it fall and bend any fins or what not.
I diligently followed the remaining aFe installation procedures and did not tighten the clamps yet as instructed. Well I'm not sure how they got back to all the clamps near the engine front cover later, but I had to remove a good portion of the upper pipes and new CAI pipe to tighten those clamps and reassemble again to reach that area myself! Practice makes perfect, right. After reinstalling the passenger front fender moulding and splash shield, I decided to reattach the now unsupported peg of my coolant reservoir hose by creating a new attachment point. Since the peg is a wide one, I used a drill bit to make two small adjacent holes in the fender splash shield that secure the peg pretty darn good considering. I'm hoping that by drilling holes and only cutting across the middle it'll be less prone to tear the fender splash shield material over time.
With the intake items mechanically shored up and the new spark plugs installed, it was on to the Panda Power Module. Video was straight forward and there is a piece of paper in the pigtail bag showing the correct orientation of the plugs as they can be inserted upside down. Unfortunatley since I re-routed the wires a couple of times for fit and function, I accidentally got one of the connectors inserted bass ackwards by the time I did my initial restart after connecting the battery. So I did get a check engine light initially but found my error, disconnected the battery to swap back the correct way, and the light went away after a couple restarts the next day. App is installed and connects fine with my phone's bluetooth (remember to get the serial number before plugging in the cables to the main unit and mounting. I had to cut a zip tie to read it for installing the app, but they supplied extra ones).
I'll upload the pictures from my phone and see how well this helps with cooler engine temps on the highway and while towing. I've paid for enough dyno runs for my Stang, but can feel a significant difference on the default Sports setting 5 with only light to moderate pedal usage on the streets already. Good pull through RPMs with smooth sound while accelerating. Turbo pop off valve sounds are even more delightful when coming off the hammer as well ;-)
Before:
During:
After:
Intercooler comparison:
Side view with better shot of upgraded passenger turbo piping and Suzy Blue in the background:
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