Bronco Plug and play 1150W RMS amp replacement kit for B&O back in stock!

[mObridge]

Is the radio in the non-B&O equiped Broncos really different than the one in the B&O equiped Broncos or is it just a matter of using Forscan to enable the digital output?

The ACM module is indeed different, you would need to swap that for one that had the A2B hardware and then code the APIM

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[Baddieland73]

The ACM module is indeed different, you would need to swap that for one that had the A2B hardware and then code the APIM

Upgraded my base stereo with plug n play harnesses and very satisfied thus far. Have a friend that I'm trying to help with his B&O Wildtrak Bronco. Not seeing the install guide, to be clear, this setup retains all stock wiring so after install all that's needed is replace factory speakers, add sub box of choice, then install Bronco tune? This setup retains center speaker unless going the 3-way route with tweeters? Want to be sure before I tell him to shell out the cash and I'm responsible for making it work. . Thank you for your help!!!

 

[mObridge]

Upgraded my base stereo with plug n play harnesses and very satisfied thus far. Have a friend that I'm trying to help with his B&O Wildtrak Bronco. Not seeing the install guide, to be clear, this setup retains all stock wiring so after install all that's needed is replace factory speakers, add sub box of choice, then install Bronco tune? This setup retains center speaker unless going the 3-way route with tweeters? Want to be sure before I tell him to shell out the cash and I'm responsible for making it work. . Thank you for your help!!!

1. Link to install guide: https://mobridge.us/wp-content/uploads/documents/K2/K2_A2B_amplifier_bronco_install_guide.pdf
2. Correct, all factory speaker wiring is maintained.
3. You only need to replace/modify the sub box in the 2 door. If you have a 4 door our amp mounts in the factory location and the kit includes a mounting bracket no modification needed.
4. Base tune comes pre-loaded, we also have limited speaker specific tunes too. All fully adjustable via our PC tuning tool.
5. That is correct. My advice would be sacrifice the center, use its channel and the spare we have to run 3 way active up front... Heaven.

Let me know if you have any further questions!

 

[Baddieland73]

1. Link to install guide: https://mobridge.us/wp-content/uploads/documents/K2/K2_A2B_amplifier_bronco_install_guide.pdf
2. Correct, all factory speaker wiring is maintained.
3. You only need to replace/modify the sub box in the 2 door. If you have a 4 door our amp mounts in the factory location and the kit includes a mounting bracket.
4. Base tune comes pre-loaded, we also have limited speaker specific tunes too. All fully adjustable via our PC tuning tool.
5. That is correct. My advice would be sacrifice the center, use its channel and the spare we have to run 3 way active up front... Heaven.

Let me know if you have any further questions!

Thank you for your response. I will tell him to get that order in.

 

[WillinMA]

So, just a personal insight as I have a two door and a Kicker 8 inch sub in the factory sub box currently. It's weak sauce, it just doesn't have enough punch. It's not even on par with the 180 watt 46HS10 sub-woofer. It's a limitation of having an 8 inch sub, just not enough air movement, and not the amp.

My personal opinion is that if you are going to making an investment in bettering the sound system in the two door, you would be much better off with a stinger tailgate enclosure or installing something like a Kicker 48TRTP122 (12" downward firing sub with a passive radiator) which can handle the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms. This amp can reportedly dish out up to 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms, but I suspect that the 48TRTP122 will be a good match for the 2 door Bronco (I will know more on Saturday when I get my Kicker 48TRTP122).

Anyway Fraser has been amazingly helpful with setup of the amplifier and responded quickly to any and all questions. What I believe that I made end up doing is removing the rear pods eventually and relocating 6.5" speakers into the tailgate.

I have the stinger sub box powered by the Mobridge and it is really, really good bass. Fraser helped me with the config on the tune so I can attest to the amp having plenty of power to get a 12" sub booming. With the whole area in the rear cleared out of the factory sub box, I use an MTI amp rack that fit perfectly into the OEM mounting spots where the sub would go. I would imagine then you have plenty of space to get the panel back on without anything getting in the way. I know some folks are worried about the install of the stinger box, but it really is pretty easy as they give you a template as to where you should drill your holes in the tailgate...pretty straight forward if you are looking for bass that will match the rest of your speakers that are running off the mobridge!!!

 

[mObridge]

I have the stinger sub box powered by the Mobridge and it is really, really good bass. Fraser helped me with the config on the tune so I can attest to the amp having plenty of power to get a 12" sub booming. With the whole area in the rear cleared out of the factory sub box, I use an MTI amp rack that fit perfectly into the OEM mounting spots where the sub would go. I would imagine then you have plenty of space to get the panel back on without anything getting in the way. I know some folks are worried about the install of the stinger box, but it really is pretty easy as they give you a template as to where you should drill your holes in the tailgate...pretty straight forward if you are looking for bass that will match the rest of your speakers that are running off the mobridge!!!

The MTI amp rack and stinger tailgate box is a great option for 2 door owners too. Solves the cupholder issue

 

[mpeugeot]

Thank you for your response. I will tell him to get that order in.

It's a very capable amp, I honestly haven't turned it up past 20/30, mostly because I would need hearing protection.

It's not hard to set up, but I would recommend getting REW (free) and a UMIK-1 calibrated mic (< $100) if you really want to tune it to it's full potential.

Highly recommend going with a larger sub (300-500w) and 4" speakers that can handle 50-75w/channel, and 6.5" speakers that can handle 100-150w/channel.

The factory 4" speakers are only rated for 25w/channel, the factory 6.5" speakers appear to be rated for about 50w/channel, and the factory sub may be enough for 75-100w (at most). The factory B&O amp is only capable of around 150 watts total... Sad. (12 amps/12 volts=144 watts)

Good luck. I am happy with my amp from MoBridge.

 

[mpeugeot]

I think that I am going to ditch the center channel and add another pair of 6.5" speakers somewhere in the vehicle. I really think that will take it over the top.

 

[Baddieland73]

It's a very capable amp, I honestly haven't turned it up past 20/30, mostly because I would need hearing protection.

It's not hard to set up, but I would recommend getting REW (free) and a UMIK-1 calibrated mic (< $100) if you really want to tune it to it's full potential.

Highly recommend going with a larger sub (300-500w) and 4" speakers that can handle 50-75w/channel, and 6.5" speakers that can handle 100-150w/channel.

The factory 4" speakers are only rated for 25w/channel, the factory 6.5" speakers appear to be rated for about 50w/channel, and the factory sub may be enough for 75-100w (at most). The factory B&O amp is only capable of around 150 watts total... Sad. (12 amps/12 volts=144 watts)

Good luck. I am happy with my amp from MoBridge.

Definitely upgrading speakers. I just now have to let friend decide if he wants to go 3 way components in the front or stick to coax speakers and keep center channel. It's his budget so will let
Him make that call. $400ish vs $1300ish bucks for speakers including rears.

 

[WillinMA]

I think that I am going to ditch the center channel and add another pair of 6.5" speakers somewhere in the vehicle. I really think that will take it over the top.

Do you have 2 way components up in the front already? If not, you might consider that and put tweeters in the a pillar - gives a much more full sound (assume thats what you are after with adding more speakers)...but you might consider the components up front....

 

[mpeugeot]

Do you have 2 way components up in the front already? If not, you might consider that and put tweeters in the a pillar - gives a much more full sound (assume thats what you are after with adding more speakers)...but you might consider the components up front....

I have 2 way speakers in the front. I still have some tuning to do, after that is done, I may end up not needing to put additional speakers in to have the full sound I want. I suspect it's a matter of tuning and not the speakers... Plus if I disconnect the center channel, I would have two unused channels, which is just begging for the extra set of speakers... Right?

 

[WillinMA]

I have 2 way speakers in the front. I still have some tuning to do, after that is done, I may end up not needing to put additional speakers in to have the full sound I want. I suspect it's a matter of tuning and not the speakers... Plus if I disconnect the center channel, I would have two unused channels, which is just begging for the extra set of speakers... Right?

Do you mean you have 2 way (i.e. - coaxial where both the mid and tweeter are in the dash? ) or 2 way components meaning the mid is in the dash and the seperate tweeter is in the a pillar or somewhere else? I'm refering the the later. And I've also been thinking about using the center speaker channel maybe to run the tweeters on its own channel vs going thru the focal cross over for the 2 way components...like yourself, I think with the mobridge, the center speaker is a waste of a channel!!!

 

[mpeugeot]

Do you mean you have 2 way (i.e. - coaxial where both the mid and tweeter are in the dash? ) or 2 way components meaning the mid is in the dash and the seperate tweeter is in the a pillar or somewhere else? I'm refering the the later. And I've also been thinking about using the center speaker channel maybe to run the tweeters on its own channel vs going thru the focal cross over for the 2 way components...like yourself, I think with the mobridge, the center speaker is a waste of a channel!!!

I have coaxial speakers. Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 Mk II's, if I knew that I would be replacing the B&O amp when I started, I might have made different choices.

 

[mObridge]

I have coaxial speakers. Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 Mk II's, if I knew that I would be replacing the B&O amp when I started, I might have made different choices.

The endless money pit that is car audio gets everyone in the end. Once you've started you can't stop.

 

[mpeugeot]

The endless money pit that is car audio gets everyone in the end. Once you've started you can't stop.

Well, I finally got the system tuned.

So in reviewing the system, I have to say that I am still getting to learn the software, but Fraser was an awesome resource. Without his help, I would not have been able to tune the system so quickly this morning by myself (took me just about 1 hour to individually tune each speaker and then integrate all the tuning in the main EQ).

It sounds amazing... It's balanced, powerful, and crisp. The sound is incredibly clean. While it would likely benefit from larger rear speakers (as opposed to the 4" Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 Mk II currently in the rear pods), I could probably make the same argument for every 4 inch speaker in the vehicle.

If there is one discrepancy, it would be the volume difference between using a blue tooth input and the radio. I don't remember the difference being there before (mostly because I don't typically use the radio) and I strongly suspect that this problem is on the Ford side of the equation and not the MoBridge amplifier. It would be a nice feature if the amplifier could mitigate this difference between the gain on the radio and any Bluetooth devices.

While the software wasn't intuitive for me, I am not an audio guy or electrical engineer, it's fairly easy to use once you learn your way around. For tuning the system you will want to invest in a calibrated microphone and download software for acoustic analysis (I used REW and a UMIK-1).

In the end, I am very pleased with the results and the cost of the system. Although I am not an audiophile, engineer, or musician; I highly recommend the MoBridge and Fraser as a typical person who likes good audio quality. This is what the factory should have delivered as a premium sound system.

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