Could someone instruct me how to re-wire my PnP harness for bi-amp mode?

[peetuhr]

Read all 56 page of the main thread.

Have a regular PnP harness but rather than amplify the rears on one channel, and the kicker and dash speakers on the other, I'd prefer to give the full 50w each to the dash and kicker speakers (and allow the DSP to tune both type of speaker independently).

My understanding is it wouldn't be too difficult. Would this not make a pretty significant difference?

Harness didn't come with any wiring diagrams or anything so not even sure where to start.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm definitely not an audiophile so maybe it doesn't actually matter.

Was gonna just leave the rears alone but does it make sense for all 4 4" to share the front channel instead (I'd, of course, lose the fader but I've literally never used it before)

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[peetuhr]

bump.

 

[MOBRONCO]

That would mess up the tuning a ton, I wouldn’t do it.

 

[peetuhr]

That would mess up the tuning a ton, I wouldn’t do it.

Aiight. No complaints here as that saves me plenty of tinkering. Thanks

 

[dangerfoot]

DId you adjust the amp to bi-amp mode? Did you try to call PnP - they have open tech support!

 

[1970AMCAMX]

You will need to cut and splice some wires, 1st you will have to figure out which wires are which since the PNP harness doesn't use the normal white, grey, green, and purple for the speaker wires.

You will need to cut the rear speaker wires going to input of your 200.4 amp (in bi amp it only needs the front speaker inputs) then, splice them with the wires leading to the rear speakers on the output side of the amp (bypassing the amp so the rear speakers are only driven by the radio.

Next, cut the front output wires from the amp and extend them to connect to the dash speakers (you can either run them to the kick panels and splice them to the wires leading to the dash speakers or run them directly to the dash speakers) and then connect the rear speaker outputs from the amp to the wires leading to the front kick panel speakers.

If you use this adaptor on your kick panel speakers it makes it simple to connect to the dash speakers without cutting or tapping into the factory harness

I am in the process of doing this right now, but I am using the following T-harness and will be selling my PNP harness.

PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness T-harness for adding an aftermarket amplifier to a select 2018-up Ford vehicle without a factory amp at Crutchfield

 

[1970AMCAMX]

That would mess up the tuning a ton, I wouldn’t do it.

Won't mess with tuning, amp is made to be run that way. You just need to make sure your fader is set to the front so the non-amplified rear speakers don't mess with the tuning.

 

[MOBRONCO]

Won't mess with tuning, amp is made to be run that way. You just need to make sure your fader is set to the front so the non-amplified rear speakers don't mess with the tuning.

His final question was running the front and rear off the same channel, that would absolutely screw with the tuning.

 

[1970AMCAMX]

His final question was running the front and rear off the same channel, that would absolutely screw with the tuning.

Missed that, you are right it would not be a good idea.

 

[peetuhr]

Thanks for the replies! Since this post, I've decided to just go with components in the front (Tentatively JL C2650), and just replace the front 4" with the tweeters.

I'm torn on whether I want to pursue bi-amping/active crossover or whether I should just stick with passive and give some extra juice to some Polk DB402s in the rear. The lazy side of me is leaning towards sticking with the latter cause, well, it's easier, won't require messing with my harness and likely going to do the job just fine.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I was looking at doing biamp/active and removing the rear speakers entirely. For what it might cost me to sell my unused PNP harness and buy a new biamp one that seems like a solid plan. I‘m likely going to add a 500.1 and whichever sub box I like for the B&O sub location.

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