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LevelSeven

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I just took the journey down FDRS updating my Badlands.

I followed this guide which has been mentioned before:
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/

It’s an accurate and great write up. I purchased the Mongoose-Plus J2534 and Clore 20-Amp Battery Charger/Tender mentioned.
Both worked flawlessly.

The reason I put down the cash for the equipment is that my SYNC has been stuck since I purchased the vehicle and I was tired of the constant disconnects knowing there were updates available.

Using the FDRS program is like time traveling back to the 80’s. It is slow and crashed once during the final phase of an update. That and seeing Lost Communication in large white letters on the 12” screen took a year off my life. The vehicle locked up until I could get it to connect again.

I won’t duplicate what has been said elsewhere but I did not see what to do if USB modules fail. I had several updates to do before the AIPM (SYNC) became available. The telemetrics failed for both USB updates. If you click NO when asked did this module install successfully, you have the ability to use the CAM to perform the update. You will be glad you have a 20-Amp (or higher) tender when you choose this option. One update was about 3 hours and another 1.5 hours.

After all the updates, I did not see the SYNC one I was looking for. I don’t know if it is coincidence but after I put my VIN here:
https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/
voila when I came back to FDRS there was an 6GB update for AIPM (SYNC) which brought it to the most recent version.

Then I had an issue with the failed USB update being stuck on the SYNC screen. Every vehicle start would display something like power down, open the door and wait 10 minutes. You could just hit cancel. I finally figured out that if you do a factory reset on the SYNC settings screen, it will clear that failed update (which did update successfully through the CAM).

All in all worth the journey and for me it makes sense to have all the software/firmware up to date on the vehicle. Time will tell but wireless SYNC has been flawless so far.
And thanks @rugedraw for the vehicle update info.
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rugedraw

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I had to CAN two IPC updates on my truck when I first updated it. Those took six hours each, so consider yourself lucky. 🤣
 

coadr

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Woohoo another FDRS champion here! Glad it all went well!
 
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LevelSeven

LevelSeven

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Thanks. I really appreciate this community. Would not have been able to do half of the programming on my rig without the knowledge here!
 

RagnarKon

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Shameless plug: I have a setup video for FDRS for those who need it. Similar to the post @LevelSeven linked to with some additional context/info.

Feel free to ask questions.

 

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rayofsi

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fdrs is awesome, i used it to get the initial updates last year, sync was stuck
then i did a lift and the rear sagged, causing lane assist to break, forscan didnt calibrate properly, but fdrs and 15 minutes later, no more errors.
 

onestout

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Is there anyway to get FDRS without the big license fees? Like a trial or anything? Otherwise it just seems cost prohibitive to get it for the backyard mechanic.
 

coadr

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Is there anyway to get FDRS without the big license fees? Like a trial or anything? Otherwise it just seems cost prohibitive to get it for the backyard mechanic.
You can get a two day license for $50, that's what most of us do!
 

HammerNQuill

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Can you program a new BCM with this? Dealer wants $1200+ for the one I supposedly bricked. Need to change headlights as well, but don't know which to do first.
 

coadr

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Can you program a new BCM with this? Dealer wants $1200+ for the one I supposedly bricked. Need to change headlights as well, but don't know which to do first.
Yes you can PMI it for setup, but need to ensure it's the correct part number otherwise you'll have all kinds of issues
 

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LevelSeven

LevelSeven

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Shameless plug: I have a setup video for FDRS for those who need it. Similar to the post @LevelSeven linked to with some additional context/info.

Feel free to ask questions.

Yes I remember seeing your video on YouTube a few months back. I love your approachability and disposition. Super helpful when I was determining whether or not to try FDRS. Bricking a phone is one thing, a vehicle . . . A completely different level of pain.
 

Ducati1098

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Can you program a new BCM with this? Dealer wants $1200+ for the one I supposedly bricked. Need to change headlights as well, but don't know which to do first.
Yes you can PMI it for setup, but need to ensure it's the correct part number otherwise you'll have all kinds of issues
No. You cannot do a BCM PMI, because that would require programming the fobs.
Unless you're a dealer or a locksmith, you wont have access to that.
 

coadr

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No. You cannot do a BCM PMI, because that would require programming the fobs.
Unless you're a dealer or a locksmith, you wont have access to that.
Oh I forgot about the keys, ignore me
 

rugedraw

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Shameless plug: I have a setup video for FDRS for those who need it. Similar to the post @LevelSeven linked to with some additional context/info.

Feel free to ask questions.

Very good and detailed video. The only thing I would add as a disclaimer somewhere is about the recommendations for the battery tender. For Mongoose and VCMII users, the IPMA will take three hours to flash. A battery tender is not recommended for this procedure. Minimum is a 20amp power supply (not just a charger) to prevent voltage from dropping and the IPMA from bricking.

For EV's (Mach E and Lightning), they have a tiny 12v battery with half the capacity of what the ICE vehicles bring. For this, a 40amp plus battery supply is recommended for long module updates.

If an IPC update fails to install via the USB method and has to be written via CAN with FDRS, it took me 6 hours to flash it on my truck. (I had to do this twice with two separate IPC updates). If I did not have a proper power supply, it would not have been a good time.

To anyone that comes across this, I would recommend a minimum 20 amp power supply for FDRS updates on an ICE vehicle (I use the Clore PL2320; $100 on Amazon) and one with double that amperage if your vehicle is an EV.
 

RagnarKon

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Very good and detailed video. The only thing I would add as a disclaimer somewhere is about the recommendations for the battery tender. For Mongoose and VCMII users, the IPMA will take three hours to flash. A battery tender is not recommended for this procedure. Minimum is a 20amp power supply (not just a charger) to prevent voltage from dropping and the IPMA from bricking.
Three hours holy smokes. That's like... FJDS programming speeds. (Although now that you bring it up I guess a lot of it is hardware limitations and not the software.)

Yeah I agree 20 amp is a good safe number if we're talking 3 hours. I obviously knew my tiny 2 Amp was way too tiny, but I was thinking... ya know... 20 minute programming times. Not 3 hours.

As far as EVs, admittedly I've never actually worked on one, so that's my own ignorance showing through. I appreciate the info there and I will update the description on the video because this is all good information.
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