HELP!! Upfitter switch wire capacity- Fire Danger??

[SeabearDivers]

HELP!! 24 WT- using a 10A upfitter switch (#4, Fuze #63) with 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Pro Amber Spot Lights. Draws 5.1 AMPS per light (10.2A/pair) according to spec. Are equipped with a backlight on a separate power source. After multiple uses, Main lights do not illuminate when switch is activated. Backlight remains on when Bronco is powered.

My stock upfitter setup is as follows-
Switch #1 (30A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Drive Lights (10.2A)- Bumper Upper
Switch #2 (15A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Spot Lights (10.2A)- Bumper Upper
Switch #3 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 4" 360 Spot (4A)- Bumper Lower
Switch #4 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Pro Spot (10.2A)- Ditch Lights
Switch #5 (10A)- 2x Baja Designs S1 Backup (2.9A)- Backup/Reverse
Switch #6 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 4" 360 Pro SAE Fog (5.6A)- Bumper/Lower

Using SPV harnesses to connect all lights to upfitter switches at firewall. Have NOT checked fuze yet. Questions for the team-

1- What is the amp rating for the stock upfitter wire?
2- Is there any fire danger adding an @SPVPARTS Harness RELAY/FUSE Add on Adapter to my existing setup (stock upfitter wire (10A Swtich) to SPV Harness)?
3- What is risk with putting a 12A fuze in the 10A slot for the stock switch?
4- Am I better off putting four 6" on the 30A Switch (#1) and avoid any potential issues?

Please and thank you for any feedback.

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[Nick72]

HELP!! 24 WT- using a 10A upfitter switch (#4, Fuze #63) with 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Pro Amber Spot Lights. Draws 5.1 AMPS per light (10.2A/pair) according to spec. Are equipped with a backlight on a separate power source. After multiple uses, Main lights do not illuminate when switch is activated. Backlight remains on when Bronco is powered.

My stock upfitter setup is as follows-
Switch #1 (30A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Drive Lights (10.2A)- Bumper Upper
Switch #2 (15A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Spot Lights (10.2A)- Bumper Upper
Switch #3 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 4" 360 Spot (4A)- Bumper Lower
Switch #4 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 6" 360 Pro Spot (10.2A)- Ditch Lights
Switch #5 (10A)- 2x Baja Designs S1 Backup (2.9A)- Backup/Reverse
Switch #6 (10A)- 2x Rigid Industries 4" 360 Pro SAE Fog (5.6A)- Bumper/Lower

Using SPV harnesses to connect all lights to upfitter switches at firewall. Have NOT checked fuze yet. Questions for the team-

1- What is the amp rating for the stock upfitter wire?
2- Is there any fire danger adding an @SPVPARTS Harness RELAY/FUSE Add on Adapter to my existing setup (stock upfitter wire (10A Swtich) to SPV Harness)?
3- What is risk with putting a 12A fuze in the 10A slot for the stock switch?
4- Am I better off putting four 6" on the 30A Switch (#1) and avoid any potential issues?

Please and thank you for any feedback.

Your amp draw, 10.2A, exceeds the circuit rating of 10A for switch #4.
Ideally, you would use a 15A circuit, but since that is taken, it would probably be best to run those lights through a relay attached to switch #4.
That way switch #4 is only powering the coil of the relay which is typically under 1A.

 

[SeabearDivers]

Your amp draw, 10.2A, exceeds the circuit rating of 10A for switch #4.
Ideally, you would use a 15A circuit, but since that is taken, it would probably be best to run those lights through a relay attached to switch #4.
That way switch #4 is only powering the coil of the relay which is typically under 1A.

But do I have to worry about the capacity of the original switch wires (10A)? The 30A and 15A switch wires are noticeably thicker as is to be expected.

 

[Geno Bam Beano]

In my opinion as a retired electrician you need to install a relay. Have the 10 amp switch control a 15 or 20 amp power source thru the relay to operate your lights. I would not install a higher fuse. That can cause problems.

 

[mdainsd]

I worry a bit about the wire sizes vs the stated current rating, particularly sw #1. Standard ampacity charts say #10 for 30 amps.
I wonder why some manufacture has not made a relay box to go right by the upfitter leads in the engine compartment. Then all circuits could be relay controlled and due to it's proximity to the battery they could have higher ratings depending on fuse choices. They would still go off when the vehicle is shut down as the relays would be driven by the upfitter switches which are controlled by the "vehicle on" status.

 

[Geno Bam Beano]

Ampere can be different with different insulation types even if same gage of wire.

 

[Nick72]

But do I have to worry about the capacity of the original switch wires (10A)? The 30A and 15A switch wires are noticeably thicker as is to be expected.

Not as long as you don't overload the circuit, so use 125% as a guide. That percentage allows a margin for error so that a load does not exceed the rating of the wire or fuse.
Replacing a 10A fuse with a higher rated fuse is dangerous since you are exceeding the wire rating, or gauge, and will possibly catch on fire.

 

[Sants]

Just to chime in, I have the KC Gravity Titan bar on the bumper of my Bronco Raptor. Specs say it pulls about 20amps and I have it wired to the 30amp switch. The wire does get hot to the touch but can be handled. I had an issue where the Lights cut out and upon jiggling the connects the lights came on. The wire became extremely hot and I turned off and disconnected because I was concerned. After reseating the connection it was fine but the wire was still hot to the touch.

With that being said, I am going to reinstall with the relay because I don't like the wires being warm/hot. I would recommend using the relay when possible.

 

[CalvinT]

After reseating the connection it was fine but the wire was still hot to the touch.

The insulation in all modern vehicles is rated at 125C. If you can hold the wire in your hand, you're safe even if it's warm.

 

[mdainsd]

Turns out they make exactly what I had in mind! 6 relay controlled circuits. Mount this near the upfitter wires in the engine compartment, splice the leads and job done!

 

[Chrome_Pony]

I'd suspect your crimp/splice connections before I'd suspect OEM wiring failing in the troubleshooting order, especially if the backlights are still working.

Check your connections, turn the switch on and wiggle them around, see if the light fires up.

 

[mikeeshim]

My installer saw my wires and said they were crap, so he replaced the wires with all heavy gauge wiring, and I ended up swapping out the upfitter switches to a SwitchPros because I needed more than 6.
Now I wish I got the 12 gang instead of the 8, but too late now.
All the solid state stuff was not interesting to me. at all.

But yeah, if you don't want your car to catch fire, I'd recommend upgrading the fuses wires.

EDIT I meant to say upgrade the wires, not the fuses. Upgrading fuses is a terrible idea.

 

[Brian_B]

But yeah, if you don't want your car to catch fire, I'd recommend upgrading the fuses.

Really?

I guess - upgrading from cheap Chinese fuse to a real brand that might actually blow at the rating

But just slapping a bigger fuse in there?

 

[mdainsd]

But just slapping a bigger fuse in there?

Thats a BIG no, no.

 

[CalvinT]

I spent some time researching wire sizes vs heating and voltage drop. I've decided on the following for my Badlands.
SW 1. 16A
SW 2. 15A
SW 3-6. 8A

If I need more power I'll use SW 3-6 to control a relay or run new wires and switches.

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