How to DIY install an ARB Compressor in a Ford Bronco (+GIVEAWAY!)

[BadlandsJ]

I'm in the midst of this installation on a 2.7L. I might be too late to help you, but maybe you can let me know what you ended up doing.

I got frustrated with the ARB mount because the install wasn't smooth and instructions weren't clear. No one from ARB got back to me when I contacted their customer support (their actual support, not just on here). I ended up installing the American Adventure Lab Tailgate Mount instead. Love it. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...tailgate-compressor-mount-early-review.81519/

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[geargeek]

I got frustrated with the ARB mount because the install wasn't smooth and instructions weren't clear. No one from ARB got back to me when I contacted their customer support (their actual support, not just on here). I ended up installing the American Adventure Lab Tailgate Mount instead. Love it. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...tailgate-compressor-mount-early-review.81519/

Thanks for the response. I looked at the AAL tailgate mount - looks good, but in my case I want the twin compressor, with the option of adding the manifold, and I don't want it mounted inside the vehicle. IMO the ARB bracket addresses those requirements the best.
I haven't found the ARB mount all that difficult to install, and I don't see that much difference in difficulty installing the AAL option.
I just want ARB to address the issue of properly supporting the upper wheel well liner, and it's as simple as them adding a small steel bracket mounted in the OE DLCM bracket location. I've logged a support ticket with ARB late yesterday. I've found them very responsive in the past. I'll report back to this thread their response.

 

[Copperhorse73]

Whether you’re a seasoned overlander or a newbie off-roader – we can all reap the benefits of an onboard air compressor. Its many capabilities include actuating Air Lockers, inflating tires after deflating, setting tire beads, drying off cookware at camp, pumping up inflatable paddle boards and kayaks, and blowing the sand off your boots and floor mats.

What’s even better? This invaluable adventure upgrade can easily be installed under the hood of your Ford Bronco with our new mounting bracket that has been validated by Ford engineers. Follow along for a step-by-step guide and pre-order your own by contacting any ARB or Ford dealer.

Requires:
ARB Twin Compressor Mounting Bracket #3580030 (Contact an ARB dealer to preorder)
ARB Twin Compressor #CKMTA12
ARB Manifold #171503
ARB Hose Coupling #0740112

Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Unplug the DLCM and remove the two M6 bolts holding the mount to the body.
DO NOT DROP.

3. Remove and discard the harness plug and earthing harness.

4. Remove fasteners (rear half only) for RHS inner guard and lower.

5. Fit the rear support bracket (4655173) using the factory OE M8 flange bolt. Leave loose at this stage.

6. Feed support tube weldment to the firewall and locate it onto the M6 stud. Once on, place the inner guard support bracket over the same OE factory stud, and fasten the OE M6 nut.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lb

7. Use an M8 FL BOLT to temporarily brace the support tube to the rear support bracket.

8. Fix the support arm to the firewall using the M10 Nut stick (bent profile shown below) and one M10 SEMS bolt.

Torque: M10 – 32ft/lbs

9. Once the support arm is fixed, remove the M8 bolt from step 6.

10. Feed the U BOLT CHANNEL behind the chassis from the top

Note: the notch in the part faces toward the top.

11. Fasten the front support bracket to the U channel with two M10 FL bolts. Leave loose at this stage
12. Support Wiring harness to mount with a Zip Tie.

13. Measure outside to outside of the two support brackets. They Should measure 220mm (8.6”). If not, adjust accordingly.

14. Torque - M10 bolts to 32ft/lbs.
15. Torque OE M8 bolt from Step 4 to 16ft/lbs.

16. Remove Twin Compressor from the box and place it upside down on a soft surface.

17. Place the base plate onto the Compressor along with the DLCM.
18. Using two M6 x 25 bolts, two M6 Flat washers attach the DLCM to the Compressor.
19. Use one M6 x 25, one M6 Flat washer, and one M6 FL nut on the third position of the DLCM.

20. Use three fasteners supplied with the Compressor to complete the mounting, and torque to spec.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

21. Secure the coolant hoses with two P clamps, M6x16mm bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

22. Using 2 x M6 x 16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts, fit the Compressor Manifold bracket to the rear mount.

23. Fit the Manifold feet to the manifold mounting bracket using M6x16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

24. Temporarily remove the washer bottle filler neck by removing the bolts retaining them to the vehicle body.

25. Carefully install the assembled Compressor, base plate, and DLCM onto the support brackets.

26. Use 5 x M8 FL BOLTS to secure the base mounting plate to the Front and Rear support brackets.

Torque: M8 - 16ft/lbs

27. Reinstall washer bottle filler neck 27. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access

28. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access through the inner guard.

29. Reinstall the inner guard.

Note: Ensure to install the OE scrivet into ARB inner guard support bracket.

30. Using the fittings provided in kit 171503, fit 1 x JIC4 - 1/4 NPT fitting to the inboard manifold port (as shown in the image to the left).

Note: Ensure to use thread sealant on all 1/4 NPT threads.

31. Repeat the same process for the compressor outlet port.

32. Connect the manifold to the compressor using the braided hose and tighten.

33. Attach the hose coupling (0740112) to the outboard port on the manifold.

34. Using the wiring harness 180415, measure and cut 400mm of wire (purple/black) connected to the purple plug.

Note: Ensure the plug is retained (as shown above)

35. Connect spade connectors to the cut ends.

36. Connect spade connectors to the switch as followed:

37. Pickup power from the stability bar module fuse (10A) located in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse reference #158 in the owner’s manual.

38. Run wiring around the rear section of the engine bay to the compressor switch.

Note: Ensure to insulate the wiring in the conduit.

39. Connect spade connectors to switch pin 2.

40. Crimp a terminal to the end of each of the two red wires on the compressor wiring harness (pn. 180414), and then connect to the positive battery terminal.

41. Connect the 2 black earth wires from the compressor wiring harness to the negative battery terminal.

42. Route the harness around the back of the engine bay. Cable tie every 400mm.

43. Plug the two harnesses into the compressor connectors.
44. Cable tie the harness to the base plate.

Suits 2.3L & 2.7L Ford Broncos - Not compatible with Bronco Raptor and Everglades models

GIVEAWAY

If you made it this far, you’re in luck! We are giving away one new ARB compressor bracket to one of you lucky 6G members.

TO ENTER
1. Reply to this thread.
2. Follow/subscribe to at least one of our social channels.

Instagram: @arb4x4usa
Facebook: www.facebook.com/arbusa
YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/ARB4x4USA

The last day for entries is October 14, 2022, 11:59PST. The winner will be chosen randomly and will be notified in this thread

*ARB will never message you directly and ask for your credit card information*

Good luck!

Followed/subscribed

 

[geargeek]

I got frustrated with the ARB mount because the install wasn't smooth and instructions weren't clear.

I also have given up on the ARB mount. Uninstalled it and purchased the KR Off-Road mount.
FYI The alternate DLCM position I previously proposed would not work for me due to too short DLCM cable length.

ARB support's response to the unsupported wheel liner concern was:
"That rivet is no longer utilized while using the ARB compressor mount. The DCLM is relocated onto the compressor bracket and the OEM bracket is no longer needed."

My response to back to support:

FYI...I have returned the ARB mount to the vendor from which I purchased it as it does not fit as described.
My main two issues were:
1) Places too much strain on the DLCM cable - cannot connect the DLCM in the new orientation required by the product. Not sure if this is a variance in the way the looms are built, but it won't fit my vehicle without risk of damaging the loom. I have a 2023 Bronco with the 2.7L engine.
2) Install leaves the top of the wheel liner unsupported, with the soft side of the DLCM positioned very close to that unsupported location. This is unacceptable risk to me. The OE configuration has a strong steel bracket holding the wheel liner at that position, with the DLCM several inches above.

 

[Chritaka]

I also have given up on the ARB mount. Uninstalled it and purchased the KR Off-Road mount.
FYI The alternate DLCM position I previously proposed would not work for me due to too short DLCM cable length.

ARB support's response to the unsupported wheel liner concern was:
"That rivet is no longer utilized while using the ARB compressor mount. The DCLM is relocated onto the compressor bracket and the OEM bracket is no longer needed."

My response to back to support:

FYI...I have returned the ARB mount to the vendor from which I purchased it as it does not fit as described.
My main two issues were:
1) Places too much strain on the DLCM cable - cannot connect the DLCM in the new orientation required by the product. Not sure if this is a variance in the way the looms are built, but it won't fit my vehicle without risk of damaging the loom. I have a 2023 Bronco with the 2.7L engine.
2) Install leaves the top of the wheel liner unsupported, with the soft side of the DLCM positioned very close to that unsupported location. This is unacceptable risk to me. The OE configuration has a strong steel bracket holding the wheel liner at that position, with the DLCM several inches above.

Was there ever any update from ARB on this issue with supporting the wheel well liner at the point where the OEM bracket was removed?

 

[geargeek]

Was there ever any update from ARB on this issue with supporting the wheel well liner at the point where the OEM bracket was removed?

ARB support's response was as noted in my previous post:

From ARB Support: "That rivet is no longer utilized while using the ARB compressor mount. The DCLM is relocated onto the compressor bracket and the OEM bracket is no longer needed."

Others have installed the mount and not reported any issues yet, so your mileage may vary. In my case, I didn't like the repositioned DLCM riding just above an unsupported section of wheel liner. Push your fist into that wheel liner position with the OEM bracket and it is solid, but without that bracket not so much. Now imagine your fist was a rock... Also, I was going to have to re-wrap the DLCM wiring loom to get it to bend into the new position.

I ended up returning the ARB factory mount and buying the KR off-road mount which is working fine for me so far + a simpler install. Another one I would consider is the JCR Offroad mount.

Note that other mounts that remove the OEM bracket may or may not support the wheel liner - you'll have to check with the vendor.

 

[Chritaka]

ARB support's response was as noted in my previous post:

From ARB Support: "That rivet is no longer utilized while using the ARB compressor mount. The DCLM is relocated onto the compressor bracket and the OEM bracket is no longer needed."

Others have installed the mount and not reported any issues yet, so your mileage may vary. In my case, I didn't like the repositioned DLCM riding just above an unsupported section of wheel liner. Push your fist into that wheel liner position with the OEM bracket and it is solid, but without that bracket not so much. Now imagine your fist was a rock... Also, I was going to have to re-wrap the DLCM wiring loom to get it to bend into the new position.

I ended up returning the ARB factory mount and buying the KR off-road mount which is working fine for me so far + a simpler install. Another one I would consider is the JCR Offroad mount.

Note that other mounts that remove the OEM bracket may or may not support the wheel liner - you'll have to check with the vendor.

It appears Grimm doesn't have the bracket extend back down for the liner to attach to either per an install video and instructions. Then again your DLCM isn't face down to the wheel well either, and not nearly as vulnerable. It mounts vertically on the backside of their bracket.

However, looking at the OEM bracket, there are enough threads on the M6x1.0 20mm Carriage Bolts that you could cut the bracket sides off to retain the fender liner rivnut point. Then just secure it on top of the ARB bracket and run the bolts through both. Not huge or timely workaround and add some comfort level. I wouldn't think it would be hard for ARB to address in a similar manner... @Ryan at ARB ?

 

[Chritaka]

It appears Grimm doesn't have the bracket extend back down for the liner to attach to either per an install video and instructions. Then again your DLCM isn't face down to the wheel well either, and not nearly as vulnerable. It mounts vertically on the backside of their bracket.

However, looking at the OEM bracket, there are enough threads on the M6x1.0 20mm Carriage Bolts that you could cut the bracket sides off to retain the fender liner rivnut point. Then just secure it on top of the ARB bracket and run the bolts through both. Not huge or timely workaround and add some comfort level. I wouldn't think it would be hard for ARB to address in a similar manner... @Ryan at ARB ?

fyi A replacment bracket:


Manufacturer Part Number
MB3G16F130BD / MB3G16F130 / MB3G-16F130-BD

 

[Chritaka]

fyi A replacment bracket:


Manufacturer Part Number
MB3G16F130BD / MB3G16F130 / MB3G-16F130-BD

Modified bracket so I could retain liner support :

 

[Glenjafett]

Since this appears to be the official Ford Performance ARB Compressor mount thread. It's been asked will this mount work with the K&N full replacement intake. The official answer is no, however with a bit of time, patience, and grinding it works fine. You just have to open up the ARB bracket to fit over the mounting bolt. It already has an opening there. You just have to make it larger. As always, measure twice, cut once.

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