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Mini Sub Install

Black_Stallion13

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Do not use these. Yeah seem great on surface but they let go over time and then you lose your mind trying to figure out whats wrong. Not good at all. No shop in the world uses these connectors for good reason.
No shop uses them because they are expensive and hard to come by. I've used them for years and never had a single issue. They gained popularity because of their widespread use in the harsh motorcycle and off-road community. Not sure what evidence you have to support those claims but it certainly hasn't been my 10+ years of regular use experience with them. I would say it's always a good idea to wrap any connection with electrical tape which is another step many do neglect.
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SROC3

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Thanks for the reply - I ended up going with a kicker key & kicker hideaway from PnP with all the necessary wiring harnesses.. but yeah I have heard of those connectors. They seem a lot better than a traditional splice. I didnt want to make a single poke anywhere in the OE harness. I've had my share or cars I wouldn't bat an eye with doing that, but this isn't one of them, haha.
Nice! Where did you get the PNOP harness for the Kicker Key?
 

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SROC3

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SROC3

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WOW. That is SO money. Thanks so much!!!
Hey bro so a little help.....please :) I have ordered the Kicker Key 200.4 and also changed my speakers out - I DO NOT have the B&O system. What exact harness do I need so that everything can be Plug and Play? I assume that the Kicker amp will only power my front speakers and not involve the rear two. Thanks for any guidance you can share with me.
 

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SROC3

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Here you go. Plenty of package options. If you need help selecting something, let me know. I've bought a couple things on here and have familiarized myself with their confusing site pretty well, lol:

2020 And UP BRONCO / BRONCO SPORT NON Amplified Radio Plug 'n Play Aud – Plug N Play Kits
Hey thanks for the link again :) I ordered the AMP and the harness is on the way. Question - I do have "Bass Blockers" on the front-dash (4-inch) speakers....should I remove then prior to amp Install? Thoughts?
 

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Hey thanks for the link again :) I ordered the AMP and the harness is on the way. Question - I do have "Bass Blockers" on the front-dash (4-inch) speakers....should I remove then prior to amp Install? Thoughts?
If you plan on keeping the bass blockers, then keep them on when you do the DSP process. A lot of people on the forum have bass blockers on their front 4" speakers. I bought bass blockers, but decided not to install them on my front 4" speakers, as I wasn't getting any distortion from them and I like the little bit of added midrange bass. I also have a JBL BassPro nano powered sub, so I'm getting lows as well.
 

TP1

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I’m stuck between the pioneer or the JBL basspro nano.

Opinions?
 

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I’m stuck between the pioneer or the JBL basspro nano.

Opinions?
JBL Basspro nano. I’m biased because it’s the one I have and am very impressed.
 
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TP1

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JBL Basspro nano. I’m biased because it’s the one I have and am very impressed.
Done. If I’m going to all the trouble might as well run the wire to the battery. Plays realized the nano gives me the control to adjust on the fly as needed as well.
 

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evgenyvasenev

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I got my JBL BassPro Nano installed. I was actually able to fit it under the backseat (4-Door OBX High Package). It fits really good actually, with some caveats. I had to install it at an angle due to the hump in the carpeted floor, but works & sounds great and I guess at an angle like this actually provides some extra ventilation, lol. I used some heavy duty velcro strips from Home Depot to secure it to the floorboard carpet. I lined the underside of the long ends of the sub with the velcro strips, and although they are not getting full contact with the carpet due to the angle, since they are heavy duty velcro they are providing plenty of grip. It's not going anywhere. There is also just enough room to clear the metal braces under the seat, so there is no metal on metal vibration. And if I ever want to remove it to fold the seats down, I can just unplug it and pull it up. Removing mine to fold the seats down will rarely happen, as I have kids in car seats back there and it's already a PIA to remove the car seats to put the seats down anyway. See photos (sorry, didn't take any before I stuck the velcro down).

I ended up getting the add-on powered sub wiring kit from PNP for the high level input, and just added it into my PNP harness I already had installed. In hindsight, you're better off just buying the full amp + powered sub PNP kit from the get go. I ended up doing double work, and ran into some slight problems, but overall I was able to overcome them and happy I'm tied in properly up at the head-unit. All I have left to do is clean up my cabling at the sub (cable management).

I must say, this sub kicks ass! It really puts out some bass for how small it is. Very impressive and makes the system sound so good. I almost feel like adding a sub should be the first step, even ahead of the Kicker Key and new speakers. I've never had a sub in any of my cars before, and can't believe what I've been missing out on. It's great because inside the Bronco this thing thumps, but outside you can't even hear there's a subwoofer installed. It's quiet from the outside.....no boom boom stoplight rattling. I also installed the remote bass control that came with it on the side of my driver's seat (see photos). I just used some double-sided tape.

Overall, my install came out awesome and I'm very happy with it now.

P.S. My overall system includes Kicker Key 200.4, Kicker 4" KS dash speakers, Kicker 6-3/4" KS kick panel speakers, JBL BassPro Nano. The only thing I haven't touched yet is the rear 4" pods, and likely will just leave them stock as that seems to be the consensus on the forum. If anything, I might up the gain on them from the Kicker Key.

Let me know if anyone has any questions on my install. Thank you.

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When you mentioned kits, do you suggest this kit? I don't have an amp, but I want to order it from them. So if I get this, would I need something else to power up the sub?

KIT 11-2: https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41305703350462
 

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When you mentioned kits, do you suggest this kit? I don't have an amp, but I want to order it from them. So if I get this, would I need something else to power up the sub?

KIT 11-2: https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41305703350462
Correct. If you get the Kit 11-2 you'll get the amp, the amp harness, and the harness for the powered subwoofer (you'd need to buy the powered subwoofer separate).

Keep in mind, you don't actually need the Kicker Key 200.4 amp to power just the subwoofer. The subwoofer already includes it's own amp. The purpose of the Kicker Key is to push more power to your head unit and speakers, but it also doubles as an easy way to tap the head unit's high-level inputs to feed the audio source/input to your powered subwoofer.
 

evgenyvasenev

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In my case, I tapped into (with Posi taps) PNP harness (Key 200.4 amp installed), so I can get the signal before the amp.
If you are not using an amp, you can definitely tap into the aftermarket speaker harness (I guess you are using Metra 72-5602?).
I checked with Crutchfield before installation, and this was what they recommended.
No reason to damage/ modify the stock wirings.
By tapping into the harness do you mean for sound or power?
 

evgenyvasenev

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Correct. If you get the Kit 11-2 you'll get the amp, the amp harness, and the harness for the powered subwoofer (you'd need to buy the powered subwoofer separate).

Keep in mind, you don't actually need the Kicker Key 200.4 amp to power just the subwoofer. The subwoofer already includes it's own amp. The purpose of the Kicker Key is to push more power to your head unit and speakers, but it also doubles as an easy way to tap the head unit's high-level inputs to feed the audio source/input to your powered subwoofer.
Yeah. I am on the fence about using the sub and/or the key. But looks like the key has own benefits so to have both could be good.
 

evgenyvasenev

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Correct. If you get the Kit 11-2 you'll get the amp, the amp harness, and the harness for the powered subwoofer (you'd need to buy the powered subwoofer separate).

Keep in mind, you don't actually need the Kicker Key 200.4 amp to power just the subwoofer. The subwoofer already includes it's own amp. The purpose of the Kicker Key is to push more power to your head unit and speakers, but it also doubles as an easy way to tap the head unit's high-level inputs to feed the audio source/input to your powered subwoofer.
What about auto-power on? The blue cable. Do I need it? Or just power to the harness and a ground?
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