Need a battery recommendation.

[Wilbur's son]

I had a Wally World nEverstart battery in my Kubota tractor, which is on a battery maintainer when not running.
Battery is a bit of a chore to get to...I was looking in there one day, noticed the terminals were corroded, looked at the date sticker; battery was FOURTEEN YEARS OLD!!!
I pulled it out, checked it with a load meter; low, but still good.
Went and bought a new nEverstart because of the corroded terminals.

Impressive. You did win the Walmart lotto with that one. Those corroded terminals usually are the sign of it getting ready to wave the white flag! See if the next one lives that long.

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[Sparkherd]

Impressive. You did win the Walmart lotto with that one. Those corroded terminals usually are the sign of it getting ready to wave the white flag! See if the next one lives that long.

Waiting...Waiting...

 

[Squirrel13]

I’ve had great luck the Ever Starts in the past. My F350 has a pair of Odyssey Extreme batteries that are going on 5 years. I don’t drive the truck much since selling the RV so it sits on a NOCO charger on a time. Chargers every night for 2 hours. No issues on that vehicle.
Bronco is my daily on OEM AGM. Periodically I unhook the battery terminals and let is sit overnight on a NOCO as well.
Both tractors and Kubota all sit on NOCOs when not in use. This lead acid batteries are 7+ years old.
After 25 years in the telecom industry i highly recommend No-Ox Id special a for all DC connections. We used it on all of the DC connections in cell sites. It basically eliminates corrosion.

 

[Onestepmore]

Battery goes into suspend after sitting for 1 day.

glad to buy the ultimate battery..

I use it all summer in New England, sits in garage on battery tender most of the winter.

what is the biggest and best battery brand or type to buy for my situation?

Thanks

Don't use Lithium...they hate being charged below freezing and they are expensive...someone mentioned the heat under the hood could be a potential problem too...I agree!!!

 

[TruckCamper]

Lithium is also a poor choice for high current loads like winches.

 

[Thatguylegit69]

Don't use Lithium...they hate being charged below freezing and they are expensive...someone mentioned the heat under the hood could be a potential problem too...I agree!!!

Optima's new orange top is supposed to combat the issues of freezing temps (with a built in heater) and have some good heat resistance (under hood), but I haven't seen field tests with them yet; also, like you mentioned, they are expensive and requires a Bluetooth dongle and connection (what for, not sure).

 

[Brian_B]

Lithium is also a poor choice for high current loads like winches.

I keep seeing people say this but can't fathom why. Lithium seems like it would be ideal for high current loads, and I didn't have an issue with it with my winch when I had mine - but I get frequent low voltage alarms on the Warn app with lead acid.

 

[Sloth]

I was just researching this for my own vehicle. Considering the stock size Odyssey Performance 48-720 (H6) or stepping up a size to the 94r-850(H7). I read online that you have to do some FORSCAN changes to tell the charging system that it now has an H7 battery instead of the stock H6. Anybody familiar with that?

 

[TruckCamper]

I keep seeing people say this but can't fathom why. Lithium seems like it would be ideal for high current loads, and I didn't have an issue with it with my winch when I had mine - but I get frequent low voltage alarms on the Warn app with lead acid.

Many Lithium batteries are rated for 100amp continuous and 200amp surge. A winch can pull 600amp continuous.

This high load is also why I would wire DIRECTLY to the battery. Addition of switches, relays, junction blocks increases resistance which increases voltage drop and increases amps further (which translates to heat). Need to be very careful with winch wiring (routing / cable protection).

 

[Brian_B]

Many Lithium batteries are rated for 100amp continuous and 200amp surge. A winch can pull 600amp continuous.

This high load is also why I would wire DIRECTLY to the battery. Addition of switches, relays, junction blocks increases resistance which increases voltage drop and increases amps further (which translates to heat). Need to be very careful with winch wiring (routing / cable protection).

Good point. The Antigravity I had was rated for 1,800A surge and “as much as your alternator” continuous

For an automotive battery to only have 100 or 200 amp surge rating would be useless - starters are a fairly good load.

I would not base a winch on continuous amp draw though - its as big or bigger than your starter and most are rated for low duty cycle anyway if you read the fine print

 

[TruckCamper]

Good point. The Antigravity I had was rated for 1,800A surge and “as much as your alternator” continuous

For an automotive battery to only have 100 or 200 amp surge rating would be useless - starters are a fairly good load.

I would not base a winch on continuous amp draw though - its as big or bigger than your starter and most are rated for low duty cycle anyway if you read the fine print

In a legit recovery... its easy to run a winch for several minutes with heavy load. Even with zero load the amp draw is equal or greater than most alternators. But most winches are never used so proceed however seems best.

 

[VirginiaHeritage]

Sssoooo… slightly confused and trying to make sense of this thread… lithium wipers from Walmart for the win? But only with non prorated warranty?

Accurate. But you need to use Rain-X AGM wiper fluid to prevent the windshield from swelling.

 

[brkdncr]

I’ve had great luck the Ever Starts in the past. My F350 has a pair of Odyssey Extreme batteries that are going on 5 years. I don’t drive the truck much since selling the RV so it sits on a NOCO charger on a time. Chargers every night for 2 hours. No issues on that vehicle.
Bronco is my daily on OEM AGM. Periodically I unhook the battery terminals and let is sit overnight on a NOCO as well.
Both tractors and Kubota all sit on NOCOs when not in use. This lead acid batteries are 7+ years old.
After 25 years in the telecom industry i highly recommend No-Ox Id special a for all DC connections. We used it on all of the DC connections in cell sites. It basically eliminates corrosion.

If you’re charging the battery only and not through the BMS, you’re going to have problems sooner or later.

charge with a connection to battery positive terminal and to the tab above the bms clamp meter on the g battery ground or just to to the grounding lug.

if you bypass the bms you’ll need to go through the bms reset/relearn process so that it doesn’t under or over charge.

 

[evofxdwg]

Lithium is also a poor choice for high current loads like winches.

Come on guys! If you are going to make statements in here, please base them on facts. Here is a quick comparison of an AGM in OEM Bronco sizing to both a diesel truck starting lithium and a lithium marketed for auto use. Which one do you think will run a winch faster/longer? Which will be the worst?

From Ionic online specification data:

Ionic Diesel Start Battery, $899

• 3,000 Cranking Amps (3 sec)
• 1,800 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)

Ionic Lithium S9 Automotive start battery, $439

• 1400 Peak Cranking Amps (3 sec)
• 1,100 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)

====
From Batteriesplus.com
Duracell Ultra Car Battery | Group 94R | 800 CCA | Platinum AGM, $239

• 920 Cranking Amps (no time specified)
• 800 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)

Temperature extremes and charge characteristics might be a problem with the Ionics or any Lithium start battery. But I don't think running a winch is a problem any more than with an OEM battery.

By the way, it seems Lithium operational specs are typically at odds with the very definition of CCA. They certainly dont charge below freezing. I would have to look if they can discharge below freezing. This might be a good reason NOT to use lithium if you live in the north:

"Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) measure a car battery's power. It is the number of amps a 12-volt battery can give for 30 seconds at 0°F (-18°C) while staying above 7.2 volts."​

 

[Squirrel13]

If you’re charging the battery only and not through the BMS, you’re going to have problems sooner or later.

charge with a connection to battery positive terminal and to the tab above the bms clamp meter on the g battery ground or just to to the grounding lug.

if you bypass the bms you’ll need to go through the bms reset/relearn process so that it doesn’t under or over charge.

If you’re charging the battery only and not through the BMS, you’re going to have problems sooner or later.

charge with a connection to battery positive terminal and to the tab above the bms clamp meter on the g battery ground or just to to the grounding lug.

if you bypass the bms you’ll need to go through the bms reset/relearn process so that it doesn’t under or over charge.

Both of the vehicle go thru the BMS sensor so they should be fine.

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