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Need help hooking up lights.................

OG-Surfdog

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Ok I think I got the hard parts figured out. My Offroad Raptor Style Dual Output Fog Light Kit for HD OEM Modular Steel Bumper will be heere soon, just hook blacks to ground and colors to a couple of Aux switches
I guess what I'm looking for is a power source that is swiitched on with the ignition.
I'm looking to hook my grill lights to that. There is some concern about bring the lead into the fuse box disrupting the seal? Also I have an after market front view cam mounted of the license plate frame, it also needs 12v when the ignition is on.
Any tricks or tips to where to get the "Ignition On Power Source"?

Thanks in advance.

OG-Dog
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5PC24

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Tex

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I wouldn't try running a wire from underneath the fuse box, that's a can of worms I don't want to mess with. Fortunately, the fuse box lid isn't sealed, it's more of a splash guard than anything. There's a spot on the inboard side of the lid that would be fine to route a wire under, it's the little bump that's covering the big terminal on the side. Might need to trim out a little hole for it to avoid pinching the wire, as long as you don't hack it to bits then it should still work just as well against water ingress. Use a fuse tap and locate a good ignition power source that you're not utilizing (or under-utilizing). It's different for various trims, but I believe 32-34 are for power points, 60-65 are for the upfitter switches, 91 is for trailer lights, 107 is for trailer battery charging, and they range from 10A-40A. 91 and 107 would be great if you don't intend on towing a trailer, for example. There are others that will work too, but whatever you choose, check it with a multimeter to ensure it's powering on and off with the ignition. I don't know how many amps your stuff is going to draw, but you can also use the fuse tap to trigger a relay which gets power directly from the battery, meaning you won't be taking any meaningful current capacity away from that circuit and can use a smaller gauge wire instead. Most relays will be 30A, and that should be more than enough to run whatever kind of LED lights you want.

Another option is to tap into the fuse box inside the cab using the same methods, Ford conveniently provided us with a blank rubber grommet for running wire through the firewall, and another smaller nipple just above a wire loom grommet that can be used. Look to the left of the brake linkage under the dash and you should be able to spot it, just a black oval rubber grommet with nothing going through it. It'll be just outboard of the brake booster if viewed from the outside. If you wanted to add a switch in the cab to your lights or camera for whatever reason, this would be the route to take. You might need to use this for the camera wiring anyway, I don't really know how it's wired up.
 
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OG-Surfdog

OG-Surfdog

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I wouldn't try running a wire from underneath the fuse box, that's a can of worms I don't want to mess with. Fortunately, the fuse box lid isn't sealed, it's more of a splash guard than anything. There's a spot on the inboard side of the lid that would be fine to route a wire under, it's the little bump that's covering the big terminal on the side. Might need to trim out a little hole for it to avoid pinching the wire, as long as you don't hack it to bits then it should still work just as well against water ingress. Use a fuse tap and locate a good ignition power source that you're not utilizing (or under-utilizing). It's different for various trims, but I believe 32-34 are for power points, 60-65 are for the upfitter switches, 91 is for trailer lights, 107 is for trailer battery charging, and they range from 10A-40A. 91 and 107 would be great if you don't intend on towing a trailer, for example. There are others that will work too, but whatever you choose, check it with a multimeter to ensure it's powering on and off with the ignition. I don't know how many amps your stuff is going to draw, but you can also use the fuse tap to trigger a relay which gets power directly from the battery, meaning you won't be taking any meaningful current capacity away from that circuit and can use a smaller gauge wire instead. Most relays will be 30A, and that should be more than enough to run whatever kind of LED lights you want.

Another option is to tap into the fuse box inside the cab using the same methods, Ford conveniently provided us with a blank rubber grommet for running wire through the firewall, and another smaller nipple just above a wire loom grommet that can be used. Look to the left of the brake linkage under the dash and you should be able to spot it, just a black oval rubber grommet with nothing going through it. It'll be just outboard of the brake booster if viewed from the outside. If you wanted to add a switch in the cab to your lights or camera for whatever reason, this would be the route to take. You might need to use this for the camera wiring anyway, I don't really know how it's wired up.
Wow Tex,
Thanks for your input.
Yeah its just the 3 little LEDS for the grill like everybody has. Low draw on power for sure.
Grill lites come with a fuse tap, so probably sneak it into fuse box and use one of the 33-35 points
And the camera is a weenie little thing with thin wires, its wi-fi and only needs 12v power so.....I'll get a fuse tap to terminate in fuse box also.
I'm gonna look into inboard side access, I think I saw it while nosing around.
I'll get back to y'all for the solution if found. haha
Joe dog
 
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Amcole1984

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Wow Tex,
Thanks for your input.
Yeah its just the 3 little LEDS for the grill like everybody had. Low draw on power for sure.
And the camera is a weenie little thing with thin wires, so.....
I'm gonna look into inboard side access, I think I saw it while nosing around.
I'll get back to y'all for the solution if found. haha
Joe dog
I just plugged mine straight to the fuse box under the hood. I have the same grill led lights. I also plugged my light up BRONCO grill letters into there as well.
 

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los7883

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I added a fuse tap to one of the 20 amp fuses in the fuse box, ran my wiring out where the remaining wires come out the side, no issues with mine so far. I also used a dremel to notch out the vertical separators in the fuse box. Made the wire lay down easier without bowing up the cover.
 
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OG-Surfdog

OG-Surfdog

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Clubs
 
I added a fuse tap to one of the 20 amp fuses in the fuse box, ran my wiring out where the remaining wires come out the side, no issues with mine so far. I also used a dremel to notch out the vertical separators in the fuse box. Made the wire lay down easier without bowing up the cover.
Kool.
I'll take that advice.
J dog
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