Must be one hell of a ham Sammich he wants to keep cool
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A fridge will kill the battery in very short order if it is left on when the engine is off. However, in many cars there are power outlets that are not tied to that (or you can fairly easily add one). I havent seen anything on the ford system other than we have a 110 outlet.
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That's not accurate- it only draws 1/2 to 1 amp under normal circumstances... a normal car battery in a good state charge can keep the fridge running for over 24 hours. I have kept ice cream frozen for 12 hours in 95 degree direct sunlight on a group 31 start battery with the voltage on the battery still being above 11.7VDC
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Group 27 auto start battery
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...art-marine-battery-group-size-27/27ms/4742402
80 amp hours storage, but you never want to take a battery below 20%, ideally no less than 50% for a regular lead acid.
40amp hours/2 amps per hour = 20 hours. I used 2amps pessimistically. The specs are 70 watts. 70watts/12 = 5.5 amps that's way worst case. I precool all the drinks and it really stays below 1 amp. Even at 5.5 amps, the battery will be at 50% at 8 hours.
https://www.dometic.com/en-au/au/pr...metic-waeco-cfx-75dzw-_-139575#specifications
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...art-marine-battery-group-size-27/27ms/4742402
80 amp hours storage, but you never want to take a battery below 20%, ideally no less than 50% for a regular lead acid.
40amp hours/2 amps per hour = 20 hours. I used 2amps pessimistically. The specs are 70 watts. 70watts/12 = 5.5 amps that's way worst case. I precool all the drinks and it really stays below 1 amp. Even at 5.5 amps, the battery will be at 50% at 8 hours.
https://www.dometic.com/en-au/au/pr...metic-waeco-cfx-75dzw-_-139575#specifications
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I carried the battery and cooler out onto the lacrosse fields. No car needed. It was a 100amp hour AGM battery.
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1 amp is a lot. Do you mean milliamp?
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I believe most of the newer vehicles are designed to shut off all power sources (except to the ECM ) after a certain amount of time.
Example: my 08 F-150 if you leave the door open for more than 5 minutes the ECM will turn off the body control module which kills the power to the interior light to save from killing the battery. Close the door and reopen light comes back on.
Example: my 08 F-150 if you leave the door open for more than 5 minutes the ECM will turn off the body control module which kills the power to the interior light to save from killing the battery. Close the door and reopen light comes back on.
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1 amp @ 12VDC is not a lot...
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Correct me if I am wrong, I am not an expert but .......
I have seen 1 amp draw kill a battery overnight, depending on the age of the battery. I was always taught it should be milliamps, Every car has draw but it is in milliamps. Newer cars have more than older ones. If your battery continues to go dead and you put a volt meter in line with the negative battery term you can see the draw. If it excessive then start pulling fuses until the draw goes away, or goes down to an acceptable level. Now you have found your draw. fix the problem or pull that fuse when you leave the car sit.
I have seen it before. guy has a truck with a sunroof. Bought it new. Starting have a problem where he had to put a battery in it every few years. no one could figure out why they just said it was the junk batteries he was buying. After helping a buddy of mine that knows a lot more than me on this and after about 3 hrs we found the problem. The drain in the sunroof track had gotten plugged with debris and didn't let the water drain where it was supposed to. It found another way to get out, down the A pillar into the inside of the truck and over the fuse box. making all the wires headed into the fuse box green. Think it had a little draw to it.
I have seen 1 amp draw kill a battery overnight, depending on the age of the battery. I was always taught it should be milliamps, Every car has draw but it is in milliamps. Newer cars have more than older ones. If your battery continues to go dead and you put a volt meter in line with the negative battery term you can see the draw. If it excessive then start pulling fuses until the draw goes away, or goes down to an acceptable level. Now you have found your draw. fix the problem or pull that fuse when you leave the car sit.
I have seen it before. guy has a truck with a sunroof. Bought it new. Starting have a problem where he had to put a battery in it every few years. no one could figure out why they just said it was the junk batteries he was buying. After helping a buddy of mine that knows a lot more than me on this and after about 3 hrs we found the problem. The drain in the sunroof track had gotten plugged with debris and didn't let the water drain where it was supposed to. It found another way to get out, down the A pillar into the inside of the truck and over the fuse box. making all the wires headed into the fuse box green. Think it had a little draw to it.
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That is the correct way to identify a parasitic draw problem. Battery condition surely affects how it handles a long duration draw. My cars, I have been getting 7-8 years out of a wet cell. My boat gets new batteries (1 Group 31 deep cycle, 2 Group 27 start batteries).. The 30 Generators I maintain get new batteries yearly because they are critical power/
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I got 12 yrs out of my battery in my 98 Taurus..... but ..... it was driven 40 to 50 miles, every day. Zero problems, till the time I left the lights on all day. Battery was toast could get it to recover.
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I'm not clever enough to go find a meme about grabbing popcorn to watch this all go down, but I think there is mostly correct information being shared.
Bottom line is that @chtucker does not need help with the math/calculations or how to wire things... the question was simply about whether or not the 12V outlets stayed on. I don't think we have that information for certain on the Bronco.
I can't remember for sure, but I believe the 2015 F-150 that I had would allow the outlets to stay on and automatically turn off if necessary to prevent the battery from going completely dead. I am now in a Sprinter Van that has one tied to the vehicle being on and another 2 that are always on (subject to voltage level). Of course I don't use them since I've wired up a separate house bank for all of my power needs.
Bottom line is that @chtucker does not need help with the math/calculations or how to wire things... the question was simply about whether or not the 12V outlets stayed on. I don't think we have that information for certain on the Bronco.
I can't remember for sure, but I believe the 2015 F-150 that I had would allow the outlets to stay on and automatically turn off if necessary to prevent the battery from going completely dead. I am now in a Sprinter Van that has one tied to the vehicle being on and another 2 that are always on (subject to voltage level). Of course I don't use them since I've wired up a separate house bank for all of my power needs.
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