Rear TracBar Relocation Bracket - Get One!

[SROC3]

I’ve had the RJ bracket for a while, added soon after adding my ADS setup. I’ve had some noise coming from the rear ADS coil over, which ADS thought either the upper/lower coils were out of sync or I needed an adjustable track bar. I took it to a local shop and they ordered new 350# upper coils, currently have 300# upper/400#lower coils, and AGM sliders/dividers. They said the upper coils were too compressed with my weight, but the bottoms were good. I have about 2.25” of preload in the rear. The shop disagreed that the noise was due to .25” misalignment and that the track bar would resolve. It was more likely due to the pre-load/needing a heavier spring/better divider. They did recommend Rock Krawler though for any future upgrades.

Though I was informed it wasn’t required, as I was only shifted to the driver .25” , my OCD kicked in… Rock Krawler had a nice Labor Day sale and no tax, so I snagged their adj. track bar too. It’s super stout! I can notice a slight improvement in tracking/handling over just the RJ bracket. Noise is still there, as the shop predicted. Awaiting my other parts to come in….

Pics of the adjusted RK track bar, which I believe I only tightened 1/8”, and geometry looks great:

Wow that is "stout" ! Beefy!!!

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[redone17]

I’ve had the RJ bracket for a while, added soon after adding my ADS setup.

Any reason you didn’t go with the ADS track bar? I snagged one this past week since they are 50% off. Received and realized they have machined acetal copolymer bushings at the frame.

My old ICON and the Rock Krawler have a rebuildable frame joints. That seems more robust. I feel like I made a mistake. The rest is built like a tank.

I guess I should have researched more. I just jumped on the sale…

 

[Chritaka]

Any reason you didn’t go with the ADS track bar? I snagged one this past week since they are 50% off. Received and realized they have machined acetal copolymer bushings at the frame.

My old ICON and the Rock Krawler have a rebuildable frame joints. That seems more robust. I feel like I made a mistake. The rest is built like a tank.

I guess I should have researched more. I just jumped on the sale…

I nearly did, before I did a bit more research and was able to get the RK FOR $254.15 on sale shipped . The ADS uses a heim which aren’t nearly as robust and I read aren’t the best for track bar applications. The RK uses their adventure series joint at the frame to help with NVH, but also great articulation, and Krawler joint axle side, which is supposed to be more robust and have better articulation than a Johny joint. The joint is stout and the frame side has extra gusseting around the adventure joint as well. They’re both rebuildable like you mentioned. Lifetime warranty against bending too!

https://rockkrawler.com/bronco-rear-adjustable-hd-track-bar/

 

[redone17]

I nearly did, before I did a bit more research and was able to get the RK FOR $254.15 on sale shipped . The ADS uses a heim which aren’t nearly as robust and I read aren’t the best for track bar applications. The RK uses their adventure series joint at the frame to help with NVH, but also great articulation, and Krawler joint axle side, which is supposed to be more robust and have better articulation than a Johny joint. The joint is stout and the frame side has extra gusseting around the adventure joint as well. They’re both rebuildable like you mentioned. Lifetime warranty against bending too!

https://rockkrawler.com/bronco-rear-adjustable-hd-track-bar/

Dang. Definitely guilty of “everyone loves a sale” on this one. I’m tempted to give it a go anyhow. For $185 shipped - this thing is really well made otherwise.

I’ll do some more research - but, luckily it came with free returns available.

 

[Chritaka]

Dang. Definitely guilty of “everyone loves a sale” on this one. I’m tempted to give it a go anyhow. For $185 shipped - this thing is really well made otherwise.

I’ll do some more research - but, luckily it came with free returns available.

Still a great price, might be worth a go.

 

[redone17]

ADS provided some helpful information when I inquired about their design decisions for their track bar:


We opted for a machined acetal copolymer bushing on the frame side instead of a heim-style (rebuildable) joint for several key reasons, especially considering long-term durability, ride quality, and environmental exposure.
Machined Bushing vs. Rebuildable Joint – Key Differences
While heim joints are known for their strength and articulation, they tend to transmit more noise and vibration through the chassis — which can be noticeable in daily driving. They also require regular maintenance, especially in regions with rain, road salt, or high humidity, as corrosion can affect performance over time.
The acetal bushing, on the other hand, offers a quiet, predictable ride with excellent resistance to environmental factors. It’s ideal for customers who want off-road capability without sacrificing comfort or adding maintenance tasks.
We’ve found this setup to be a great balance for Bronco owners who use their vehicles both on and off the trail. And while the bushing isn’t rebuildable, it’s designed to last and can be easily replaced if needed — though under normal use, that’s rarely necessary.

The heim joint at the axle end of the panhard bar is a key feature designed to correct rear axle dog tracking—a misalignment where the rear axle doesn’t sit square to the chassis. This can affect handling, tire wear, and overall drivability. The adjustable joint allows us to fine-tune the lateral position of the axle for proper alignment.
Why the Heim Joint Is at the Axle End (Not the Frame End):
Placing the heim joint at the axle end offers several advantages:

• Ease of Access & Adjustment: The axle end is typically more accessible for adjustments, especially when fine-tuning alignment after a lift.
• Reduced Stress on Mounting Points: The frame side often sees more vibration and flex, which can accelerate wear on a heim joint. Using a bushing at the frame end helps absorb that movement, while the heim joint at the axle end handles precise alignment.
• Improved Longevity: This configuration balances durability and performance—keeping the heim joint where it’s most effective and least exposed to harsh chassis vibrations.

Why We Use a Heim Joint:
We selected a standard heim joint for its proven reliability, cost-effectiveness, and ease of replacement. It provides:

• High strength and wear resistance
• Minimal deflection for better suspension response
• Simple adjustability without proprietary tools or parts

This setup is ideal for both daily drivers and performance builds, offering long-term durability and precise alignment control.

 

[JF Bronc]

Dang. Definitely guilty of “everyone loves a sale” on this one. I’m tempted to give it a go anyhow. For $185 shipped - this thing is really well made otherwise.

I’ll do some more research - but, luckily it came with free returns available.

@redone17 did you end up installing the ADS track bar? I too love a low price and am curious if you kept it and feel it was worth it for the price vs rock krawler

 

[redone17]

@redone17 did you end up installing the ADS track bar? I too love a low price and am curious if you kept it and feel it was worth it for the price vs rock krawler

I’m about to in a few weeks. Suspension goes in tomorrow - but, I’m not adjusting the coilovers up to 2.5+ until tires get mounted. Waiting on powder coat. I’ll definitely report back.

 

[redone17]

@JF Bronc - installed. This thing is BEEFY. Much more stout than the Icon version I had on my 2021. I guess time will tell if the bushing/heim joint hold up. But, they’ll both be covered in fluid film a majority of the time.

 

[cjetcat]

I bought an ADS track bar and it is too long. I am running Eibach Pro Truck 2.0s set at out of the box height on my two door factory Sasquatch Bronco. I also have a Boss 4x4 track bar relocator. With the ADS track bar set as short as it will go, the rear differential is 3/8 of an inch past center to the passenger side. I emailed ADS and they said their track bar is designed to go to the factory location but that will not make move 3/8 of an inch. Has anybody else had this problem?

 

[CitrusBronco]

I bought an ADS track bar and it is too long. I am running Eibach Pro Truck 2.0s set at out of the box height on my two door factory Sasquatch Bronco. I also have a Boss 4x4 track bar relocator. With the ADS track bar set as short as it will go, the rear differential is 3/8 of an inch past center to the passenger side. I emailed ADS and they said their track bar is designed to go to the factory location but that will not make move 3/8 of an inch. Has anybody else had this problem?

It does not have to be perfectly level.

How many inch’s low is the passenger side trac bar? maybe post a pic.

Sounds like you don’t need a trac bar with the relocation bracket installed.

 

[cjetcat]

It does not have to be perfectly level.

How many inch’s low is the passenger side trac bar? maybe post a pic.

Sounds like you don’t need a trac bar with the relocation bracket installed.

Track Bar is really close to my level. Problem is dog tracking. ADS track bar is out of adjustment / as short as it will go but rear end is still about 3/8 of an inch off-center. Sticking out on passenger side. Sorry no pictures.

 

[telenerd]

For whatever it’s worth, I installed a track bar relocation bracket the track bar is now level. Running clip 5 on my 6112s 2 door Sas. Didn’t really notice much of a difference with the Bronco driving. Getting alignment and rear control arms installed tomorrow. See if that makes any difference.

 

[CitrusBronco]

Track Bar is really close to my level. Problem is dog tracking. ADS track bar is out of adjustment / as short as it will go but rear end is still about 3/8 of an inch off-center. Sticking out on passenger side. Sorry no pictures.

Different relocation bracket brands have different offsets, so one might lift the mounting point 1” and another will do 2” for example, they are not all the same.
You might be fine running one or the other, relocation bracket or adjustable bar. It sounds like you don’t need both with the amount of lift you have.

It depends on your individual Bronco, however normally you need about 3” of lift or more to use a longer bar and relocation bracket together.

Your options, you can put back on the factory trac bar, see where that leaves you. If your axle is not center, remove the relocation bracket, install the longer bar and adjust to center. Or raise your shocks higher to allow both the new bracket and longer bar to work together.

In the end you added parts that you did not need. I have both of these parts also but not installed, I bought everything that I thought I would need first, on my build day I did not install them, no need with my setup. It happens, we learn from it.

 

[cjetcat]

Different relocation bracket brands have different offsets, so one might lift the mounting point 1” and another will do 2” for example, they are not all the same.
You might be fine running one or the other, relocation bracket or adjustable bar. It sounds like you don’t need both with the amount of lift you have.

It depends on your individual Bronco, however normally you need about 3” of lift or more to use a longer bar and relocation bracket together.

Your options, you can put back on the factory trac bar, see where that leaves you. If your axle is not center, remove the relocation bracket, install the longer bar and adjust to center. Or raise your shocks higher to allow both the new bracket and longer bar to work together.

In the end you added parts that you did not need. I have both of these parts also but not installed, I bought everything that I thought I would need first, on my build day I did not install them, no need with my setup. It happens, we learn from it.

Different relocation bracket brands have different offsets, so one might lift the mounting point 1” and another will do 2” for example, they are not all the same.
You might be fine running one or the other, relocation bracket or adjustable bar. It sounds like you don’t need both with the amount of lift you have.

It depends on your individual Bronco, however normally you need about 3” of lift or more to use a longer bar and relocation bracket together.

Your options, you can put back on the factory trac bar, see where that leaves you. If your axle is not center, remove the relocation bracket, install the longer bar and adjust to center. Or raise your shocks higher to allow both the new bracket and longer bar to work together.

In the end you added parts that you did not need. I have both of these parts also but not installed, I bought everything that I thought I would need first, on my build day I did not install them, no need with my setup. It happens, we learn from it.

Thanks for the info. I thought since the ADS bar is supposed to work with zero to three inches of lift that if would have enough adjustment. I didn't think the relocate bracket would make enough difference that it wouldn't work. The ADS was adjusted very close to factory length for a starting point. It had about 1/2 of an inch of adjustment shorter left at stock length. It is now adjusted as short as it will goo. I will check the stock bar again but I don't think it will work with the relocator either. Good luck with your Bronco build.

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