Preload does not change the spring rate. Sure, it will take more force to compress the spring further, but the spring rate never changes. Preload should mostly be done to dial in ride height based on ideal shock lengths. You want preload on the spring. Too much or too less preload will call for a different spring.
Another feedback is also providing an option for a bit more lift purely for people who want to run 38s and maybe see a bit bigger space between the tire and the fenders. This is purely for the purposes of the look, for some reason I like more space between the fender and tire despite this possibly not being the most practical or smartest thing to do. Basically having roughly about 10 inches of space between tire and fender vs. like 5 inches. I don't know what it is but I am not a fan of the snug look even though your kit seems decently balanced but an option for a bit more space would be great without having to use spacers.
Having lifted a whole bunch of vehicles over my lifetime.... I sure would NOT do a larger than 2.5 inch to 3 inch suspension lift with this particular suspension.... I really think you would be endangering your CVs just to start the conversation.... Much more than that but.... That right there is a big stop sign for me.... There are other ways to accomplish what you want. Inexpensively I would look at a body lift. A 2.5 plus a 2 inch body lift would probably get you what you want... OR you could go to one of the suspension lifts that drops the diff and replaces the knuckle/upright with a larger one.... (personally have one on a truck but I do not recommend it.... For looks only okay.) But you sure do not want to go over 3 inch with a coil over on this suspension.... You could go to a long arm. You could go to aftermarket fenders.... Lots of options that all have their pros and cons.
See I thought adding those body lifts is what would cause that CV problem not through the shock. I just want more space between the tire and fender but don't want to compromise anything lol. Thanks for the input hard to make a decision on anything.
The body lift does not change the relationship/geometry on the driveline to the suspension to the frame.... A body lift, all it does is lift the "body" of the truck up off the frame.... So fenders doors cab etc... raise up but nothing else does. I am not really fond of them (typically) but they are very useful at times. One issue is that a body lift (by itself) does not raise your bumpers to match... you either have to raise the bumpers (and anything else connected to the frame like sliders) separately or live with the "gap".
Oh wow, well forget that then lol I am def not doing that. I will just stick with whatever the suspension offers in that case. Readylift has a decent gap between wheel and the fender and they claim you can run a 38 with their lift kit which uses 3.3 Falcon shocks; however, I do like the AccuTune lift better quality and tuning wise.
You can run a 38x13.5 on any of the coil overs.... does not mean it will not rub at full compression though. The readylift is not going to give you any more (or less) lift than the other coil overs.... The preload is adjustable... The differences (and this is important) spring rate and dampening rates and styles... and on the upper arms how well you can align it after lift....Some are better than others.
Yeah, but they are advertising 38s and I think they also got the internal bump stops which they limit any kind of rubbing, at least that is my assumption maybe I am way off since I am a newbie at all this.
I think there are a number of people on this site that have gone that route and are very happy.
Yeah, it doesn't seem too bad and looks great, price is pretty good too. The Falken shocks arent bad at all for that price.
Preload is very misunderstood. If you don’t understand accutune’s comment then you need to rethink your life choices. Seriously though it is important to appreciate what this means.
I appreciate your input, I also think 37x13.50r17 would work with the JKS kit, and taking off crash bars, and I hope I don't have to trim rock sliders. If people can fit the big Toyo 37 which is 560 revolutions at 14.6 inch width then a Toyota RT Pro at 565 revolutions and 13.6 inch width shouldn't be an issue. The new Falken Wildoeak RT is a 38 inch tires but tire revolutions are 562 which means this 38 is smaller than the Toyo MT 37 which is 560 revolutions. It all depends on which tire you choose I guess. Do your recommend upper control arms and general lift kit from Icon while using Ride shocks or someone else's UCAs and LCAs?
I have the Falken R/T's in 37/12/50/R17 and they measured very true to size, and I had a friend on the 38's on his Tundra and they also measured true to the 38 size. I personally went with the Accutune UCA because it seemed best bang for buck. It is a tubular design but still has sealed heims that can technically be adjusted if needed. I have friends on the Icon stuff, but I am still sour about the tie rods so I refused to get them. I went full Metalcloak for the rear upper and lower control arms and track bar (mainly because I know their stuff from Jeeps and friends, but Rock Jock is solid and other options also). Most people I know had to trim the rock sliders, so be prepared for that, but really isn't a big deal, it's easy and minimal.
Oh wow so the Falken in 38 is true to 38, that's good to know. I like that one because it is a D load; however I am considering the new Toyo RT Pro as well. I still got some time before, I do this. Do you recommend steering rack upgrade for this either the new Ford one or the 74 weld, also do you recommend getting the new aftermarket CV axles? When I do this I want to do it right the first time.
