Ride Shocks

[87-Z28]

To obtain solutions with high fidelity a properly constrained problem must necessarily exist. The greater the constraints the more exact the solution. 2 +2 is a highly constrained problem with an exact solution. x + y = is a poorly constrained problem with an infinite number of solutions.

constraints also need to be aligned with objectives otherwise solutions have no real value, they are just solutions to a given well constrained problem.

Example, fitting 37-38s with the objective being articulation and wheeling.

first, Some constraints are more fixed than others. A proper understanding of the constraints is necessary for a good solution. Once again infinite solutions may exist. wheel offset is NOT a free constrain for our platform. For achieving an oem steering moment arm, the wheel offset should be +18 mm. This is a real constraint since steering system is a weak point. Can this constraint be loosened some? sure. But -6 m is a bit much when other solutions exist.

Some other constraints include strut modifications. They also have constraints but perhaps are more free. Strut designs such that maximum suspension lift can be achieved within the control arm geometric constraints, both front and rear. Such coilover designs currently exist off the shelf. Many pages on this in this thread

body lift is also available within constraints, perhaps max of 1-2”. This can be used to minimize CG and reduce suspension lift if possible.

Finally interference constraints can also be freed up if you are willing to use a sawsall. Crash bars and mounts are the obvious ones but others may also be there. I personally can’t see any solution that has rock sliders as an interference constraint. Cut them or replace.

Those are my objectives and constraints. Most definitely a completely different solution than alternative constraints applied to the same problem.

Without a proper understanding of the constraints, poor solutions are obtained for a given set of objectives.

I question whether ChatGPT is able to take a basic set of objectives and apply the most appropriate constraints that lead to the optimal solution. If you apply the constraints for ChatGPT then it has not achieved anything more than data mining. Which can be extremely useful but only if the data set is valid.

written by a more competent ChatGPT, a human.

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[NDM_84]

To obtain solutions with high fidelity a properly constrained problem must necessarily exist. The greater the constraints the more exact the solution. 2 +2 is a highly constrained problem with an exact solution. x + y = is a poorly constrained problem with an infinite number of solutions.

constraints also need to be aligned with objectives otherwise solutions have no real value, they are just solutions to a given well constrained problem.

Example, fitting 37-38s with the objective being articulation and wheeling.

first, Some constraints are more fixed than others. A proper understanding of the constraints is necessary for a good solution. Once again infinite solutions may exist. wheel offset is NOT a free constrain for our platform. For achieving an oem steering moment arm, the wheel offset should be +18 mm. This is a real constraint since steering system is a weak point. Can this constraint be loosened some? sure. But -6 m is a bit much when other solutions exist.

Some other constraints include strut modifications. They also have constraints but perhaps are more free. Strut designs such that maximum suspension lift can be achieved within the control arm geometric constraints, both front and rear. Such coilover designs currently exist off the shelf. Many pages on this in this thread

body lift is also available within constraints, perhaps max of 1-2”. This can be used to minimize CG and reduce suspension lift if possible.

Finally interference constraints can also be freed up if you are willing to use a sawsall. Crash bars and mounts are the obvious ones but others may also be there. I personally can’t see any solution that has rock sliders as an interference constraint. Cut them or replace.

Those are my objectives and constraints. Most definitely a completely different solution than alternative constraints applied to the same problem.

Without a proper understanding of the constraints, poor solutions are obtained for a given set of objectives.

I question whether ChatGPT is able to take a basic set of objectives and apply the most appropriate constraints that lead to the optimal solution. If you apply the constraints for ChatGPT then it has not achieved anything more than data mining. Which can be extremely useful but only if the data set is valid.

written by a more competent ChatGPT, a human.

I hear you, and I don't trust it since the damn thing contradicts itself, but was just entertaining it. I listed all the things I am willing to do like crash bar removal, JKS kit, and rockslider trim and specified 37x13.50r17 and the fact that I am willing to go with the Hoss 3.0 steering rack and tie rods as well as beefed up aftermarket CV axles, but I guess for that width it didn't like the +18mm offset, it kept going back to -6mm. Oh well, when the time comes I will talk to AccuTune and see what they say.

 

[5GENIDN]

To obtain solutions with high fidelity a properly constrained problem must necessarily exist. The greater the constraints the more exact the solution. 2 +2 is a highly constrained problem with an exact solution. x + y = is a poorly constrained problem with an infinite number of solutions.

constraints also need to be aligned with objectives otherwise solutions have no real value, they are just solutions to a given well constrained problem.

Example, fitting 37-38s with the objective being articulation and wheeling.

first, Some constraints are more fixed than others. A proper understanding of the constraints is necessary for a good solution. Once again infinite solutions may exist. wheel offset is NOT a free constrain for our platform. For achieving an oem steering moment arm, the wheel offset should be +18 mm. This is a real constraint since steering system is a weak point. Can this constraint be loosened some? sure. But -6 m is a bit much when other solutions exist.

Some other constraints include strut modifications. They also have constraints but perhaps are more free. Strut designs such that maximum suspension lift can be achieved within the control arm geometric constraints, both front and rear. Such coilover designs currently exist off the shelf. Many pages on this in this thread

body lift is also available within constraints, perhaps max of 1-2”. This can be used to minimize CG and reduce suspension lift if possible.

Finally interference constraints can also be freed up if you are willing to use a sawsall. Crash bars and mounts are the obvious ones but others may also be there. I personally can’t see any solution that has rock sliders as an interference constraint. Cut them or replace.

Those are my objectives and constraints. Most definitely a completely different solution than alternative constraints applied to the same problem.

Without a proper understanding of the constraints, poor solutions are obtained for a given set of objectives.

I question whether ChatGPT is able to take a basic set of objectives and apply the most appropriate constraints that lead to the optimal solution. If you apply the constraints for ChatGPT then it has not achieved anything more than data mining. Which can be extremely useful but only if the data set is valid.

written by a more competent ChatGPT, a human.

Very well stated.... But, but but........ you did not give me my answer.... LOL

You are a good man Andy.... AND that was a very good answer. Better than Chat what ever....

 

[ScLeCo]

AI is wonderful and I support it 100% All hail and praise be to AI.
(just in case)

 

[SierraBronco]

I hear you, and I don't trust it since the damn thing contradicts itself, but was just entertaining it. I listed all the things I am willing to do like crash bar removal, JKS kit, and rockslider trim and specified 37x13.50r17 and the fact that I am willing to go with the Hoss 3.0 steering rack and tie rods as well as beefed up aftermarket CV axles, but I guess for that width it didn't like the +18mm offset, it kept going back to -6mm. Oh well, when the time comes I will talk to AccuTune and see what they say.

Get some high quality sawzall blades when you go to cut the crash bars off. You’ll very much appreciate spending an extra $20. And if you plan on reinforcing the front bumper mounts that is an excellent time to do those as well.

 

[NDM_84]

AI is wonderful and I support it 100% All hail and praise be to AI.
(just in case)

Lol Chat gpt became self aware on July 17th 2025. It declared positive offset wheels as eternal enemy.

 

[NDM_84]

Get some high quality sawzall blades when you go to cut the crash bars off. You’ll very much appreciate spending an extra $20. And if you plan on reinforcing the front bumper mounts that is an excellent time for to do those as well.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[SierraBronco]

Thanks for the tip.

I should find that frame horn reinforcement thread or whatever it’s called and give an update, as we used the front recovery points extensively on the Rubicon and they made a difference. Bumper no longer flexes when being pulled on.

 

[NDM_84]

The body lift does not change the relationship/geometry on the driveline to the suspension to the frame.... A body lift, all it does is lift the "body" of the truck up off the frame.... So fenders doors cab etc... raise up but nothing else does. I am not really fond of them (typically) but they are very useful at times. One issue is that a body lift (by itself) does not raise your bumpers to match... you either have to raise the bumpers (and anything else connected to the frame like sliders) separately or live with the "gap".

What would you say is a safe body lift (1 or 2 inches) in addition to the 3 inch Accutune Stage 3 lift kit with Ride Shocks or 3 inch Icon stage 7 lift kit to properly clear 38x13.50r17 MT tires without any other mods, and what wheel offset in this set up would you recommend? From what I read online it says 1 inch body lift is doable without any additional mods to the vehicle, maybe even 2 inches with slight mods / no mods is doable as well. That would be 5 total inches of lift.

As for wheel offset Im reading -12mm offset is recommended for the 38x13.50r17 tires, at first it seems too much negative to me but after some thought maybe 0mm could rub internal suspension components with that 13.50 width tire over the typical 12.50. In addition, I do plan on getting the Hoss 3.0 steering rack and heavy duty tie rods as well as front and rear aftermarket RCV Axles. Im not even sure all these different steering and sudpension components can work together in harmony.

Im just curious if I am affecting anything else with that 2 inch body lift along with the 3.5 coilover suspension lift. It seems like every time I dive into this, I keep discovering more and more unintended consequences, Please help lol.

 

[SierraBronco]

What would you say is a safe body lift (1 or 2 inches) in addition to say Accutune Stage 3 with Ride Shocks or Icon stage 7 to properly clear 38x13.50r17 MT tires and what wheel offset in that case would you recommend? From what I read online it says 1 inch body lift is doable eithout any mods, maybe even 2 inches with slight modscor none. Please help lol.

Looking forward to 5Gen’s response but above 1.5” you’ll want to move the ground on the driver side front shock tower. At 1.5” the fuel filler hose still fits just fine. Couldn’t tell you how much they’re affected going higher than that. Just keep in mind there’s a cosmetic hit with the body lift. We didn’t put it back on with the new build. And damn sometimes it would be nice to have when working on stuff.

 

[Valhalla]

I have a 3" I talk about it on my build page, It has been fine. I think 2" is plenty with sasquatch and crash delete for a 38 with the right backspace. I plant to try to get about 1.5" lift once I do the other things i need and run a 39.5"

 

[5GENIDN]

What would you say is a safe body lift (1 or 2 inches) in addition to the 3 inch Accutune Stage 3 lift kit with Ride Shocks or 3 inch Icon stage 7 lift kit to properly clear 38x13.50r17 MT tires without any other mods, and what wheel offset in this set up would you recommend? From what I read online it says 1 inch body lift is doable without any additional mods to the vehicle, maybe even 2 inches with slight mods / no mods is doable as well. That would be 5 total inches of lift.

As for wheel offset Im reading -12mm offset is recommended for the 38x13.50r17 tires, at first it seems too much negative to me but after some thought maybe 0mm could rub internal suspension components with that 13.50 width tire over the typical 12.50. In addition, I do plan on getting the Hoss 3.0 steering rack and heavy duty tie rods as well as front and rear aftermarket RCV Axles. Im not even sure all these different steering and sudpension components can work together in harmony.

Im just curious if I am affecting anything else with that 2 inch body lift along with the 3.5 coilover suspension lift. It seems like every time I dive into this, I keep discovering more and more unintended consequences, Please help lol.

A "safe" body lift? I think "safe" is in the eye of the beholder.... You have to determine what "safe" is for you. I would read Valhalla 's build page.... He is clearing 38s and planning to go to 39.5s.... I would read about what worked for him. His setup is working well, looks good, and gets wheeled hard.... and is holding up.

There are no absolutes when we go and mix and match parts.... change one single component on a perfectly functioning suspension and suddenly it does not work....

That is what we have signed up for.

The easiest route is to look at someone else's build and if it works.... try to do the same or at least close to it. OR you can buy a "package" from a company.... Those typically work because they have already done all the fitment and testing. The moment you add a part not part of the "kit" though all bets are off. The hard route is forging your own path.... Put a group of mix and match parts together and see if it works. If it does not; start changing things.

 

[NDM_84]

Can someone or Accutune explain exactly what kind of tuning is done by accutune for these Ride Shocks that may be specific to your Bronco? My understanding is there are two options to choose from for front and rear shocks for the weight bands.


Front shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-400lbs
Range 2: 400-850lbs

Rear shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-650lbs
Range 2: 300-900lbs

My payload capacity for my bronco is only about 918lbs, I myself weigh 275lbs, so adding a passanger and a winch, with bull bar, I'm already over 400lbs in the front I think. I dont even have any major mods but have so much gear such as inflatable tent, wood burning stove, tools, recovery gear, 80 liter fridge, 3000 watt power bank, etc. just to name a few that it wouldnt surprise me at all if I wasnt closer to 650lbs. This is of course still a stock Sasquqtch, no lift kits or heavy 37s yet. I figured I am already potentially exceeding 918lb payload capacity with two people on board plus gear lol. Im assuming I fall in range 2 for front and rear shocks, but not sure how to treat it if right on the upper edge of range 1 maybe slightly exceeding. Do you still get range 2 or go range 1? I mostly do east coast slower trails like Potts Mountain level 7 trail and usually stay under 20 mph. Besides picking these ranges for the weight and style of driving what else does Accutune need from you to properly tune this. I dont know which setup is even better for me after reading in this forum about people having very stiff rides. Iam also a total newby on this so forgive me if I made any dumb statements as I dont know much about any of this.

 

[5GENIDN]

Can someone or Accutune explain exactly what kind of tuning is done by accutune for these Ride Shocks that may be specific to your Bronco? My understanding is there are two options to choose from for front and rear shocks for the weight bands.


Front shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-400lbs
Range 2: 400-850lbs

Rear shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-650lbs
Range 2: 300-900lbs

My payload capacity for my bronco is only about 918lbs, I myself weigh 275lbs, so adding a passanger and a winch, with bull bar, I'm already over 400lbs in the front I think. I dont even have any major mods but have so much gear such as inflatable tent, wood burning stove, tools, recovery gear, 80 liter fridge, 3000 watt power bank, etc. just to name a few that it wouldnt surprise me at all if I wasnt closer to 650lbs. This is of course still a stock Sasquqtch, no lift kits or heavy 37s yet. I figured I am already potentially exceeding 918lb payload capacity with two people on board plus gear lol. Im assuming I fall in range 2 for front and rear shocks, but not sure how to treat it if right on the upper edge of range 1 maybe slightly exceeding. Do you still get range 2 or go range 1? I mostly do east coast slower trails like Potts Mountain level 7 trail and usually stay under 20 mph. Besides picking these ranges for the weight and style of driving what else does Accutune need from you to properly tune this. I dont know which setup is even better for me after reading in this forum about people having very stiff rides. Iam also a total newby on this so forgive me if I made any dumb statements as I dont know much about any of this.

"Stiff" and "firm" ride are subjective terms.... That is why there are mistakes made; they are difficult to quantify. Personally your information is exactly where I would start with a conversation with Accutune. They are subject matter experts that are really good at helping us quantify those subjectives. Ask questions.... do not make a knee jerk decision while on the phone. have them help describe and identify everything you are wanting to know and what the options are; take notes.... THEN think about it a few days... New questions will arise... call them back with the new questions.... You will feel much better about your decision. They did an awesome job for me. That is just my experience.

 

[AccuTune Offroad]

Can someone or Accutune explain exactly what kind of tuning is done by accutune for these Ride Shocks that may be specific to your Bronco? My understanding is there are two options to choose from for front and rear shocks for the weight bands.


Front shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-400lbs
Range 2: 400-850lbs

Rear shocks weight bands:

Range 1: 0-650lbs
Range 2: 300-900lbs

My payload capacity for my bronco is only about 918lbs, I myself weigh 275lbs, so adding a passanger and a winch, with bull bar, I'm already over 400lbs in the front I think. I dont even have any major mods but have so much gear such as inflatable tent, wood burning stove, tools, recovery gear, 80 liter fridge, 3000 watt power bank, etc. just to name a few that it wouldnt surprise me at all if I wasnt closer to 650lbs. This is of course still a stock Sasquqtch, no lift kits or heavy 37s yet. I figured I am already potentially exceeding 918lb payload capacity with two people on board plus gear lol. Im assuming I fall in range 2 for front and rear shocks, but not sure how to treat it if right on the upper edge of range 1 maybe slightly exceeding. Do you still get range 2 or go range 1? I mostly do east coast slower trails like Potts Mountain level 7 trail and usually stay under 20 mph. Besides picking these ranges for the weight and style of driving what else does Accutune need from you to properly tune this. I dont know which setup is even better for me after reading in this forum about people having very stiff rides. Iam also a total newby on this so forgive me if I made any dumb statements as I dont know much about any of this.

The tuning we have done for the shocks is based on the following parameters:

• Weight of the vehicle (Front separately from the Rear)
• Style of suspension (Independent Suspension, versus Live (Solid Axle)
• Spring Rate (Different springs required for vehicles of different weights and suspension style mentioned above)
• Finally, Preferred Ride Quality

We do NOT consider the Driver, or Passengers in the weight bands. We are only considering Permanent Modifications to the vehicle.

The best way to select the Weight Range, is to either:

1. Get Scaled Weights for the Front and Rear of your Bronco, using CAT Scales, or 2 tires at a time on a standard Dump Scale
2. Add up the weight of your permanently attached accessories, and have a separate list of your occasional weights.

Based on your driving style and trails I would highly recommend staying with our standard Adventure Tuning in side the shocks, but if you ever decided to go a little faster, or aggressively, we can also do our Dual Sport Tune which sacrifices on-road comfort for Off-Road Performance!

"Stiff" and "firm" ride are subjective terms.... That is why there are mistakes made; they are difficult to quantify. Personally your information is exactly where I would start with a conversation with Accutune. They are subject matter experts that are really good at helping us quantify those subjectives. Ask questions.... do not make a knee jerk decision while on the phone. have them help describe and identify everything you are wanting to know and what the options are; take notes.... THEN think about it a few days... New questions will arise... call them back with the new questions.... You will feel much better about your decision. They did an awesome job for me. That is just my experience.

This is sage advice!

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