Wiring question - Multiple accessories

[BroncoPHL]

Hi all - Long time lurker, first time poster.

I've recently installed some lighting accessories to my bronco. Amber LED grill lights, fog lights and trail lights. That said, each one of the accessories has a "add-a-circuit" fuse to be added to the fuse box. Each one has dual 10A fuses in them. Slot 25 was the recommended slot, but what other slots can I use so that these accessories can be used or do you have any recommendations on how I can wire these accessories?

Thank you in advance

Dave "BroncoPHL"

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[Brian_B]

Hmm.

I think you may want to drive a relay off Fuse 25, then run the main lines of the relay to power a separate fuse box and run all your accessories off the new fuse box

Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/YEZriler-Wat...=1757011864&sprefix=auto+fuse+,aps,536&sr=8-7

 

[redone17]

I’ve been wondering this myself. I have a collection of wires building up in the top right corner of the engine bay that I’d like to clean up and a bit of a birds nest growing near the battery.

I recently finished building out a Jon boat with casting deck, two electric motors, lights, bilge pump, etc. So I was thinking of taking what I learned from that and running all of the accessories out of a Blue Sea fuse box with a bus bar.

My question is - what’s the benefit of tying into the factory Fuse 25? Can’t you just run the wires through an auxiliary fuse box and avoid the factory electrical components?

My electrical knowledge is novice at best. But, this is on deck for a winter project.

 

[NC_Oak]

I don't have the upfitter switches, so don't know anything about amperage or wire gauge, without looking them up on this forum. I assume you have on the wildtrack but don't know that for sure. So maybe those are an option?

Regardless, you have a bunch of lights to wire. Cool! We can do this. You may want to post what models you have. Normally we can assume that the MFGs are providing you with appropriate fuse size but there are a lot of TEMUs out there. If needed, I would check that the wire gauge is suitable for the wattage of the lights and the fusing is suitable for the wire gauge. Once we're beyond that, fuse 25 always on is only good for so much. Why bother.

You have several lights to power so go right to the source - the battery. A separate fuse box can be used, IAG's auxilliary switch kit is pretty cool, you can add some toggle switches (not many great places but use your imagination). Whatever you use, the switches NEED to be rated for the individual loads, OR use relays. More wiring with relays.

Brians link is fine for fuses ( i do get scared of rando chinese electrical stuff tho), but your switches need to be right as i state above.

 

[Brian_B]

My question is - what’s the benefit of tying into the factory Fuse 25? Can’t you just run the wires through an auxiliary fuse box and avoid the factory electrical components?

It's an easy spot to get switched power from - Fuse 25 being the rear view camera/BLIS system.

 

[Brian_B]

Brians link is fine for fuses ( i do get scared of rando chinese electrical stuff tho),

I agree, I wouldn't necessarilly purchase that link, was just the first thing I could find that illustrated what I was talking about.

Here's a quality one I would purchase - I tend to like Blue Sea Systems gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-ST-Blade-Water-Resistant/dp/B0829JJCCD

This one on sale, has a bit more to it
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ

 

[redone17]

@Brian_B - I guess I need to research utilizing empty slots. That makes sense - so that it’s switched with the ignition. I didn’t think of that.

 

[Brian_B]

@Brian_B - I guess I need to research utilizing empty slots. That makes sense - so that it’s switched with the ignition. I didn’t think of that.

I pulled an add-a-tap from Fuse 22 (360 Camera - i don't have that system, so ... spare fuse). 66 is another good spot for most (Sway Bar Disconnect).

25 isn't bad - it's in use, but all that stuff is low amperage, so you aren't likely to overload the socket adding another load to it so long as you either relay it off or make sure it's not too big (like LED backlights, not the big LED lamps themselves)

 

[EOS]

Hi All, Have a look at the Engineered Off-Road Systems SAPS (Safe Accessory Power System). It's a perfect fit (literally and figuratively) for those who want organized, clean, safe, water proof, fused power in their 6G. It tucks outboard of the existing fuse box, leaving that still accessible.

The very detailed instructions provide additional guidance as to tools, materials and process for you or your shop to clean up your existing "rats nest" of accessory wiring when doing this install.

This is the true opposite to that cheesy little made in China "fuse box" posted earlier. This is designed and manufactured in California by a true enthusiast and Engineer .

Forum product launch here.

EOS home page here

 

[NC_Oak]

Hi All, Have a look at the Engineered Off-Road Systems SAPS (Safe Accessory Power System). It's a perfect fit (literally and figuratively) for those who want organized, clean, safe, water proof, fused power in their 6G. It tucks outboard of the existing fuse box, leaving that still accessible.

The very detailed instructions provide additional guidance as to tools, materials and process for you or your shop to clean up your existing "rats nest" of accessory wiring when doing this install.

This is the true opposite to that cheesy little made in China "fuse box" posted earlier. This is designed and manufactured in California by a true enthusiast and Engineer .

Forum product launch here.

EOS home page here

I do like that. $300 will be a hurdle. I don't see any IP ratings, but assume this aligns with IP64.

I like to do things correct, neat clean, I have proper tools, I spend the money, but also have harbor freight stuff where appropriate. being real here. And I get it, electrical safety is crucial, IEC and NFPA a big part of my work.

$300 is a lot.

 

[EOS]

I do like that. $300 will be a hurdle. I don't see any IP ratings, but assume this aligns with IP64.

I like to do things correct, neat clean, I have proper tools, I spend the money, but also have harbor freight stuff where appropriate. being real here. And I get it, electrical safety is crucial, IEC and NFPA a big part of my work.

$300 is a lot.

Thanks for your input. Truly appreciated. I've not got enough of this kind of input yet.

It's IP66: dust tight and high pressure water jet proof. Not officially submersion proof, but due to its o-ring seal, I'm sure it would handle temporary/shallow immersion just fine. Not sure about the rest of your rig given how high this mounts .

I'm a small family business just getting started and put a lot of thought into my products and pricing. Regardless, no skimping, it's simply against my design philosophy. This is even more important in a safety related item.

Anyway, the primary reason why this may seem expensive is due to low volumes. That makes all of the major components much more expensive; the custom anodized mounting bracket, the huge TPE jacketed pure copper cable and the fuse box itself. I certainly ain't making any small fortune on these...

Not to be anything close to an ambulance chaser (not exactly the right term here...), but crappy wiring; parts, materials and process can absolutely cause or contribute to complete vehicle losses due to fires. It's documented here on the forum. Don't skimp on your electrical, via a SAPS or otherwise!

Cheers.

 

[GreySquatch]

I was having the same problem with a building mass of wires going to the battery and switched 12v so I build up a plate on top of the battery to support some bus bars, fuses and a relay box. The small positive bus bar goes to fuse 25. The Large positive bus bar is straight to the battery to support a winch, a premier power welder and powered steps. The grounds all run to the main grounding strap on the frame. This was just my way of keeping everything neat and serviceable. Hope it gives someone some ideas.

 

[redone17]

I was having the same problem with a building mass of wires going to the battery and switched 12v so I build up a plate on top of the battery to support some bus bars, fuses and a relay box. The small positive bus bar goes to fuse 25. The Large positive bus bar is straight to the battery to support a winch, a premier power welder and powered steps. The grounds all run to the main grounding strap on the frame. This was just my way of keeping everything neat and serviceable. Hope it gives someone some ideas.

Do you have that all tapped into unused factory fuses?

 

[NC_Oak]

Thanks for your input. Truly appreciated. I've not got enough of this kind of input yet.

It's IP66: dust tight and high pressure water jet proof. Not officially submersion proof, but due to its o-ring seal, I'm sure it would handle temporary/shallow immersion just fine. Not sure about the rest of your rig given how high this mounts .

I'm a small family business just getting started and put a lot of thought into my products and pricing. Regardless, no skimping, it's simply against my design philosophy. This is even more important in a safety related item.

Anyway, the primary reason why this may seem expensive is due to low volumes. That makes all of the major components much more expensive; the custom anodized mounting bracket, the huge TPE jacketed pure copper cable and the fuse box itself. I certainly ain't making any small fortune on these...

Not to be anything close to an ambulance chaser (not exactly the right term here...), but crappy wiring; parts, materials and process can absolutely cause or contribute to complete vehicle losses due to fires. It's documented here on the forum. Don't skimp on your electrical, via a SAPS or otherwise!

Cheers.

I can appreciate that - a lot. I spent a ton of money on Kong coolers cuz they are US made and I thought yeti was scummy for chinese made "american engineered". I plan to make a custom light bar mount for some KCs over the windshield and an aluminum deck for the cargo area (will need underlighting). As a fellow engineer, I'll see if your SAPS can find a home in my rig.

 

[GreySquatch]

Do you have that all tapped into unused factory fuses?

Just the small red bus bar at the top is powered by factory fuse 25. I have one lead going to the battery which feeds the large red bus bar and fuses in the lower left: 400A for the winch, 300A for the welder, 30A for the powered steps and a 60A breaker for the relay box.

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