What Did You Do To Your Bronco Raptor Today? 🔧 🧰 🪛

[swamp2]

New rotors and pads. R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet rotors and Dynamic Friction Company (DZC) Ultimate Duty Pads:

More details in my build thread.

My helper:

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[Ninjak]

No pics... But I finallypulled my rust filled 65 out of the backyard spot to start taking parts off of it, and send her on her way to that big junkyard. Believe it or not hernickname was Ol' Yella. I built her to drag, got 1 run out of her before someone hit the car, and it went downhill from there.

The Braptor easily hauled her out of the ruts the tires had made as she had sat there for about 7 years. Hooked up the lines, and she just came along quietly. Heh, they were amazed it was just that easy.

Now it's time to get my wrench on and take the salvageable parts out I want to keep, and get the rest of it ready for the hauler.

 

[vrtical]

New Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T Tires:


No drive feedback yet other than new tires are better than old . Quiet, balanced and less steering shake.

I have 15k on mine now, rotate them every 5k, ride like new still. You will lose a bit of MPG, but its worth it handling is soo much better from a C to D tire.

 

[G1D1UP]

@G1D1UP, I’d join that one… curious to setup and connections. My F450 is highly used and a smaller scale / capable Bronco HUD would be great for highway.
EDIT- found this little box.
Was this the unit?
https://www.f150leds.com/products/f...h28U46P9n8I688V2PtKY1H6Ty99kkDeBoCFYUQAvD_BwE

Yessir, that is the unit. Working pretty good right now and then I contacted the manufacturer to offer some product suggestions and hit an un-welcomed brick wall. Anyways, not a bad thing to purchase.

 

[G1D1UP]

That's pretty nifty. Who makes it and how does it work (connect)?

F150LEDS and it connects via OBD port

 

[dougcjohn]

Yessir, that is the unit. Working pretty good right now and then I contacted the manufacturer to offer some product suggestions and hit an un-welcomed brick wall. Anyways, not a bad thing to purchase.

Interesting you mentioned a brick wall communicating with F150LED.

I added badge led’s and running board led’s for my F450. Purchased the adapter plug vs cutting light harness. It wasn’t wired the same as their manual wire schematic diagram.
I attempted to communicate the 1 pin that needs to be moved in their adapter harness to provide correct operation. That fell on deaf ears as well. So much so, it kinda turned me off to business with them.

 

[swamp2]

I have 15k on mine now, rotate them every 5k, ride like new still. You will lose a bit of MPG, but its worth it handling is soo much better from a C to D tire.

What specifically have you found better as far as handling with these sneakers? Spirited on highway, low or high speed off road, etc.

 

[vrtical]

What specifically have you found better as far as handling with these sneakers? Spirited on highway, low or high speed off road, etc.

All of the above. Obviously with the thicker D sidewalls, the roll over is a whole lot less so that translate to better on and off road stability. The only place I haven't tried is 90 mph on sand. Offroad they are 10x better in the mud/rocks as the tread and compound are better.

 

[1979]

Replaced the bucking Bronco with a bucking Pumbaa. I always liked the Warthog code-name better than Raptor.

 

[Ninjak]

Added power steps. They are nicer than I thought they would be. Write up in https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/posts/2766006/

 

[swamp2]

Chalk tested my new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T tires.

Since these are D load rated and factory KO2s are C, I expected a lower pressure. But they are LOW.

My rig is moderately loaded (drawers, fridge, rack, RTT, EOS Water System) and has bead lock KMC wheels. Tires are brand new. I tested at 32, 30, 28 and 26. There was continuous improvement along the way. 32 was way too high. 26 is close but still showed a bit more chalk at the very edges (i.e. slight overinflation). Unlike most others, I test and monitor at warm, not cold.

I'll run here for 5-8 k mi, measure tread depth and adjust from there.

What are you running on the street @vrtical ?

 

[G1D1UP]

Replaced the bucking Bronco with a bucking Pumbaa. I always liked the Warthog code-name better than Raptor.

What the? How about some 'Merica!'

 

[G1D1UP]

I went a little crazy last week with trinket accessories for the Bronc Rap. Even though Raptor has no Sasquatch ties...I like this

Forgot my little decals..

 

[dougcjohn]

Forgot my little decals..

Aren’t those Tufskin silicon decals great!
Always a perfect fit to letters or trim outlines!
I’ve used them on several vehicles and amazed how well they endure the elements.

If ya grab several at a time, you do realize how they get pricey quick!

 

[swamp2]

Transmission Fluid Flush (3X):

At 50k. Not going with the Ford 100k BS or whatever that is. There are plenty of posts/threads on this so I will keep it fairly brief.

I got prices for this, using a flushing machine to get all of the fluid out, from $250 to $1100, here in San Diego. Yes, $1100 . Unfortunately, when I got to the place that said $250, all of a sudden they did not have said flushing machine (suggested to drop pan and I'm sure only one drain/fill cycle) and their price also went up to $400-ish. I throttled my anger, explained my disappointment and said they need to do better on accuracy over the phone, on price and technique, and promptly walked out. This was Sparkys Transmission in Santee (San Diego). Don't give them any business!

• Put down 3x as much cardboard or plastic sheet as you think you will need as the pan drains very fast and will splash or possibly overwhelm your drain pan.
• I have the PPE extra capacity pan which adds 1.75 quarts to the 13.1 full capacity (13.1 is NOT the drain and fill capacity). Thus each drain, which was right about 6 1/4 quarts or 6 liters drained, gives 58% of the fluid remaining. Its a lot! So after 3 flushes, I should have 80% of the fluid totally new/fresh. Not as great of a percentage as I wanted but this went through about 21 quarts total and they are not cheap. I did this math wrong in another post (really just the inputs) as I had the pre PPE pan full fluid capacity incorrect. Of course you should "exercise" the transmission before draining after each refill, just use all of the gears on the stick and power brake it a bit in 1st and 2nd gear. Of course each flush had the fluid looking less brown and more red.
• I did overfill once using more like 7.5 liters. Don't do it, it's messy.
• My magnetic drain plug had a very thin and very fine layer on the magnet. I changed 1 flush at 1k and another single flush later when installing the pan. I'll do another 3x flush around 100k
• Unfortunately, the used o-ring on the plug did not look good at all. PPE lists a complete odd ball size o-ring, not appearing to be a metric nor imperial standard. I used a -119 viton and it is close and sealing fine. Make sure you get a replacement before starting the job (unlike me...)
• To work around the hot exhaust when getting the hot fluid level correct, I simply used two sweatshirts over one arm and a leather glove. I escaped all burns. I do have fairly thin arms.
• I'm sure its obvious, but you absolutely need a pump and hook type nozzle or similar to get the fluid into the trans. I used this one (Amazon) which has a nice shut off valve and flexible coolant style pipe (the blue section).

• Ford official warm operating temperature is somewhat difficult to reach without a ton of power braking. I got mine up to about 195 °F tearing around in Baja mode in Manual. I think Ford spec is 206-215 °F. Unfortunately, I checked mine with the engine not running, I just saw running is recommended here in another thread... Probably not a big deal @Ducati1098 ?? EDIT: It does need to be checked while running. It will be about a half quart low if correct while not running.

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