Approach for Running multiple rear accessories Bus vs multiple wire runs

[docklobster]

Considering multiple accessories and trying to do everything at once but also have future flexibility so I'm not tearing out the panels completely everytime...

Eg: Improved amp, tailgate compressor, Anker DC-DC charger etc.

What are your thoughts on running a heavier gage to a rear bus setup vs running each of these individually to the main battery - which may require a bus in the engine compartment to handle connectors?

Not sure how easy it is to fit smaller individual runs vs 1 larger run through the provided path. Not to mention if I can actually run a reasonable gage (8/6) to the back that can handle these things.

TIA for your thoughts to help plan.

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[EOD98]

I ran a 0 awg to a distribution box in the rear cargo area. Definitely handy,

 

[CalvinT]

You'll need a fuse at the main battery to protect the wire you run to the rear and individual fuses for each circuit you connect to the rear bus. Your idea is sound as long as you follow those two rules and pay attention to wire sizing and have appropriate sized fuses. DO NOT use Chinese fuses. Go with brand name fuses such as Bussman or Littelfuse.

Assume 20 feet of wire, you'll be good for 60 amps without excessive heating or voltage drop. Make sure you use good wire, not primary wire sold in auto stores. Also pay attenention to the connectors you use.

I've used these people for wire and connectors.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/bulk-wire-by-the-foot

Since you'll be running the wire inside your Bronco, I'd suggest wire with insullation that meets J1127 standards for temperature and abrasion. Most wire sold in parts stores doesn't meet J1127.

Finally. Avoid aluminum busbars and connections. They're just asking for trouble. Go with copper or plated copper.

 

[Brian_B]

Its not a good idea.


Its a great idea.

 

[HighVelocity]

Blue Sea Systems make fuse blocks for this exact thing.

 

[Bschurr]

Considering multiple accessories and trying to do everything at once but also have future flexibility so I'm not tearing out the panels completely everytime...

Eg: Improved amp, tailgate compressor, Anker DC-DC charger etc.

What are your thoughts on running a heavier gage to a rear bus setup vs running each of these individually to the main battery - which may require a bus in the engine compartment to handle connectors?

Not sure how easy it is to fit smaller individual runs vs 1 larger run through the provided path. Not to mention if I can actually run a reasonable gage (8/6) to the back that can handle these things.

TIA for your thoughts to help plan.

Just be smart about your wire, fuse, shut off options, wire protection and appropriate tie downs to prevent any chafing and it’s a terrific addition.

I added a distribution block inside my tailgate (behind the access panel) that provides power for my ARB twin, some external camping lights & an adjustable interior light for the cargo area.

Power is direct from the battery into a 500A shut off switch mounted just in front of the battery. I used 2AWG wire that I ran along existing wire chase/looms through the firewall grommet, along the driver side door sill, across the rear cargo area (behind the rear seats), into passenger side cargo area and then along the existing wire loom for the tailgate and mounted behind the tailgate access panel. I mounted a ground block as well behind the access panel and used the factory ground behind the passenger side cargo area above the sub (near the soft top mounts) to connect it.

I only energize the circuit when needed - the underwood shutoff doesn’t stay on 24/7.

 

[Loeb]

If you have big plans for power hungry accessories at the end of the vehicle farthest from the battery/alternator, it's a good idea to run a fused fat wire to the back and put a fuse block back there for power distribution. Do it right. Use reputable brands to prevent a vehicle fire. BlueSea makes GREAT stuff. Waytek wire is a good catalog. So is Del City.

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