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Upgrading speakers… Not that simple

Brian_B

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Anyone have a link to the best simple instructions on wiring the Kicker 48CWR84 and Kicker 47KEY500.1 to replace the B&O subwoofer? I see tons of threads that get into complicated explanations. I ordered from Crutchfield with the wiring kit & polyester fill. Everything comes Wednesday.

Just looking for the best amp placement, routing path for the power wire from the battery, which wires to splice from the B&O amp and if I use the RCA jacks or high level inputs etc.

Not changing anything else at the moment, the OEM sub just misses about half the tone range I'd expect for the price of the system. My son's 23 Wrangler Alpine system blows this B&O one away.

Some of the videos were long and complicated, just need some directions. Thanks in advance!
So.... not really an easy way to do this.

The problem is finding a good input for the Key 500.1

You could take the speaker-level output from the B&O and run it as speaker-level input on the 500.1. That will work. But if you think the B&O is cutting out frequencies you are after, they are going to stay cut out... just a bit louder.

You could pick up a speaker-level input from the front kick panels (the most popular/easiest location). That gets around the B&O subwoofer tuning, but you are still at the mercy of B&O tuning in general, and very likely the subwoofer frequencies you are after are going to get stripped out of the kickpanel by the B&O DSP.

You can't get an analog non-equalized/unfiltered input on the B&O system from anywhere - it's all digital on the unamplified side, and you need either an A2B amplifer, or an A2B pickup to get up a non-modified input. Mohbridge is a popular choice for an amplifier with an A2B input, Nav-TV Zen F25 is a popular interface to run to an external amp.

Running power is easy - you just pull a wire through the firewall to the battery (there is an existing grommet ready to use in the driver-side footwell), run it down the door sills through the existing cable runs back to where you want to mount your amp. Make sure to put a fuse up by the battery. There are grounding posts back in either rear cargo area fender wells you can use.
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Brian_B

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Anyone have a link to the best simple instructions on wiring the Kicker 48CWR84 and Kicker 47KEY500.1 to replace the B&O subwoofer? I see tons of threads that get into complicated explanations. I ordered from Crutchfield with the wiring kit & polyester fill. Everything comes Wednesday.

Just looking for the best amp placement, routing path for the power wire from the battery, which wires to splice from the B&O amp and if I use the RCA jacks or high level inputs etc.

Not changing anything else at the moment, the OEM sub just misses about half the tone range I'd expect for the price of the system. My son's 23 Wrangler Alpine system blows this B&O one away.

Some of the videos were long and complicated, just need some directions. Thanks in advance!
Also, check this out
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...to-add-new-sub-for-2025-2026-with-b-o.129818/
 

Like2Detail

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Thanks everyone... I had no idea how complicated this was! So many conflicting pieces of info online. All of this makes sense. I'll likely just return the stuff that I purchased. I'd hate to install and then be disappointed and continue to chase something half decent. I haven't messed with car audio anything since all my stuff was stolen out of my 97 Z24 30 years ago lol. Aftermarket head units made this much easier!
 

23OBX2.7

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So just a quality set of dash left and right are a noticeable improvement? nice to hear. Maybe that and a powered sub will be all I need then.
2025 is a nice system most cars need 1000W 2 ohm sub amp with integrated LOC and very good sub. I have maybe USD 1500 in speakers made slight difference but the Kenwood XR1001.1 and Hertz MPBX300S2 tailgate mount made all the difference.

Any more new cars will get sub amp and sub as first step, then sound deadening and sound absorbing.

diymobileaudio has a lot of 6.5, subs and sub amps at very reasoable prices 8s say atleat half price tomass market popular brands seen on crutchfield etc.
 

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Fast Eddie

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2025 is a nice system most cars need 1000W 2 ohm sub amp with integrated LOC and very good sub. I have maybe USD 1500 in speakers made slight difference but the Kenwood XR1001.1 and Hertz MPBX300S2 tailgate mount made all the difference.

Any more new cars will get sub amp and sub as first step, then sound deadening and sound absorbing.

diymobileaudio has a lot of 6.5, subs and sub amps at very reasoable prices 8s say atleat half price tomass market popular brands seen on crutchfield etc.
I threw this into google translate and got nothing. Any AI models that can help here?
 

Brian_B

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I threw this into google translate and got nothing. Any AI models that can help here?
He likes loud bass.

Which is cool.

He has some great advice - I don’t necessarily agree that everyone should have or want 1kW subwoofers, but I will admit it probably sounds pretty bad ass with the top down cruisin’

I have about 280W to my sub. With the top up it’s overkill, but I admit the bass can get
lost with the windows down. I’m ok with that - my neighbors don’t always need to hear my Kid’N’Play bumping. Just sometimes.
 

23OBX2.7

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T800

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Thanks everyone... I had no idea how complicated this was! So many conflicting pieces of info online. All of this makes sense. I'll likely just return the stuff that I purchased. I'd hate to install and then be disappointed and continue to chase something half decent. I haven't messed with car audio anything since all my stuff was stolen out of my 97 Z24 30 years ago lol. Aftermarket head units made this much easier!
I definitely miss the days of aftermarket HU's. Last vehicle I installed one in was my 2012 Jeep Wrangler. Ever since then, I've been forced to use the OEM HU now that they're fully integrated.
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