$1000 audio equipment budget. Audio Rookie needs some guidance

[Mlrtime81]

I have a 2023 Black Diamond non-B&O system with the fake sub and fake amp in the rear. I already replaced all the factory speakers with Kicker CS series speakers.

The new speakers dramatically improved the sound, but still leaves A LOT to be desired. Im not an audio junkie, so almost no knowledge of amps, DSPs, nor the skills/patience to learn it all. I just know it’s missing a ton of base and overall sound quality is poor.

Im looking to budget ~$1000 on the audio equipment. Im looking for improved sound and stronger bass.

I’ve been looking at the following:
Stinger Sub TXFBB12
Kicker Key 500.1 amp for the Sub
Kicker Key 200.4 amp for the factory speakers, mainly to improve sound quality

I can shell out more money for a DSP if it will make a big difference, but I noticed the amps accept speaker level inputs. i could also put a real sub in the factory location, but it seems kind of small to pump out solid bass.

This audio rookie needs some guidance.

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[Brian_B]

I’ve been looking at the following:
Stinger Sub TXFBB12
Kicker Key 500.1 amp for the Sub
Kicker Key 200.4 amp for the factory speakers, mainly to improve sound quality

I think this is a good start right here. I would do this and see what you think - if this doesn't get you where you want it will be pretty darn close, and which way to go depends on what you think is lacking after you do these 3 upgrades.

You won't put a Stinger in the factory location, but if you are willing to modify the dummy sub they put in there, a 6.5" is the factory size, an 8" fits easily, and I've seen people cram 10" in there. Even just the lowly 6.5" will crank out some impressive bass for that really small interior of the Bronco. If you are just a "casual" listener the 6.5" is excellent - it will thump a good bit more than what you have now, but I don't know if it's enough - it does struggle with seriously low frequencies and good even sound (some tones will boom more than others).

I did upgrade to the Kicker 6.5, and I'm about to pull mine out and try an 8" -- not because it doesn't get loud enough, it does that in spades, but I'm looking for a more even sound. Different people have different opinions on what is enough bass though. If you want to rattle windows 4 cars over, or really want to push that lower register, the Stinger will serve you very well.

 

[Brian_B]

I'd also say - depending on what you think is good enough -- start with the 200.4

That alone may get you what you are after. You won't get a ton of bass out of the kick panels, but putting 50W behind them will open them up and it will sound like an entirely different animal.

 

[Alassise]

You also will need a LOC (PAC or Audio Control). I will spend the money on a better 5 channel amp that will push the sub you decide to get. I run a JL Audio XD 700/5 (pricey) pushing a dual 8" sub woofer box (JL CP208LG-W3v3), and aftermarket speakers on factory locations. To me is plenty and the audio quality is great. Clean, clear sound and tight bass. I see that you are in Houston, check MTI Acoustics in College Station. They have packages and might provide you with a budget solution that fits your needs.

 

[Mlrtime81]

I'd also say - depending on what you think is good enough -- start with the 200.4

That alone may get you what you are after. You won't get a ton of bass out of the kick panels, but putting 50W behind them will open them up and it will sound like an entirely different animal.

Thanks Brian! Your thoughts on me overdoing the sub are interesting. Like most people I just want it to sound great in my car, I could care less about rattling other people cars.

 

[Mlrtime81]

You also will need a LOC (PAC or Audio Control). I will spend the money on a better 5 channel amp that will push the sub you decide to get. I run a JL Audio XD 700/5 (pricey) pushing a dual 8" sub woofer box (JL CP208LG-W3v3), and aftermarket speakers on factory locations. To me is plenty and the audio quality is great. Clean, clear sound and tight bass. I see that you are in Houston, check MTI Acoustics in College Station. They have packages and might provide you with a budget solution that fits your needs.

The JL stuff is probably amazing, but way more than I want to spend.

I’ll do a bit of research on the MTI being so close.

Do I really need (and will I really benefit) an LOC if the kicker keys accept speaker level inputs?

I don’t mind spending a bit more, but don’t want it to turn into a $4000 audio upgrade.

 

[Brian_B]

Do I really need (and will I really benefit) an LOC if the kicker keys accept speaker level inputs?

Do you need it? No, absolutely not.

Would you benefit? Yeah, it’s up to you if the benefit is worth the cost though.

 

[zombie]

I upgraded my system for about what you're looking to spend:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/ultimate-stereo-upgrade-thread.37328/post-1224231

 

[Lil Mul]

You really need better than the kicker key in my opinion.

Check with Plugnplaykits.com
That's who I went with. They make nice harnesses that plug into factory wiring and run back to an amp in the back somewhere. Give them a call and chat with him. Very helpful and knowledgeable.

I went with Kicker CS all around with 8" sub in the factory box and 8 channel Muway amp with built in crossovers. Couldnt be happier with sound upgrade and quality, especially compared to the stock crap.

 

[ZapMflash]

I installed an Audio control LC7i and a Clarion EQ then ran into a Pioneer amp and a RF powered sub. I used Polk s speakers front and rear and Kickers in the kick panels. It will now melt my face and it's within your budget since you already have speakers. I can't speak to the factory sub area and what will fit but the 6.5" idea suggested above sounds like a good solution.

 

[Oldhippie]

I went with CS kicker all around with kicker 400/500 amps and 8” in stock enclosure added Jensen (do better) 100w x2 amp for kicks…it is pretty good (more bass than I need) but the bronco is a poor sound stage…but yeah your new speakers would like some power…

 

[thenewjs]

I love JL Audio.

For my Braptor, I went with the following:

Dashboard = C2-400
Kicker = C2-650
Rears = C2-650’S in MTI Pods
Mobridge A2B AMP/DSP
JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 in a MTI TAILGATE ENCLOSURE (COMING SOON)

 

[Mlrtime81]

So, something really weird is happening with my audio in general and kick panels in specific since upgrading my system.

i did the forscan thing to set the EQ flat. Installed an LC7i, a 4 channel amp and a mono subwoofer. I used a PAC wiring harness to send the signal to the LC7i and return it back from the 4 channel amp. Also installed an 8” sub in the stock slot with very minor tweaks to fit it in.

Now, when I try to change the fade, my kick panels only start to fade out when the sound is shifted all the way to the front. So, no matter what the sound is always really heavy in the front and almost nonexistent from the two pods in the back because the kick panels overpower them. Even if I shift the fade all the way to the back, the kick panels drown out the pods.

also, I’m getting tinnitus like a MF….even at super low volumes and 0 bass. Never had this issue in my life until now nor did I ever blast the volume or bass in this car.

I can’t figure out the source of things. I’ve checked the wiring at the harness, the amps, the rca positions and back into the head unit. I’ve turned all the inputs and gains down to basically 0 to minimize everything after noticing the tinnitus.

It’s to the point I’m almost ready to pull all the shit out and just got back to the POS stock stereo.

anyone else ever dealt with this craziness?

 

[Brian_B]

I would double check your wiring harness. I know it's just a passthrough type arrangement, but you have to cut / splice into specific wires. I would make sure you have the right wires going to the right inputs/outputs to start with.

If you haven't seen this guide yet, it shows the pinouts for the harnesses so you can double check - not saying you did it wrong, but maybe the instructions with the PAC one aren't up to date or something. Worth a check at any rate.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...o-disassembly-instructions-wiring-info.87409/

You said you already lowered the gain on the LC7i - that would be my first thing to check, but you already did that.

Also - just to check -- you are fading to the Front, and your kickpanels fade out? Although you say later on that the only way you can even hear the rear pods is with the Fade set all the way to the rear, so I'm thinking I'm just misunderstanding.

What speakers did you end up installing (In all 6 locations)? The fronts, using the harness, the Kicker and the dash are run in parallel, and the rear pods are by themselves. Just an example, but if you used a pair of 2 ohms in the front and a 4 ohm in back, the fronts are really being driven at 1 ohm since they are in parallel. Just something that could be throwing things off.

Do the kicks and the dash speakers sound roughly balanced, or are the kicks even overwhelming the dash speakers?

I'm assuming you wired the speakers Main - Front, Channel 2 Rear, Channel 3 Subwoofer?

It isn't unusal for the gains between the front and rear channels to need to be a lot different to sound balanced because of this. I think on my Kenwood, I have the rear channel set to like 6 and the fronts set to about 3 and the sub output to like 1.5 -- adjusting them so it sounds balanced with the Sync controls all set to the middle.

 

[Mlrtime81]

I’ll have to try that stuff out. My guess is the wiring from the PAC instructions may have been off leading to mixing of the channels I’ll have to see.

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