2021 Bronco Base grille painting: How-To DIY Video

[wetdog]

Nice to see you do your own thing glad your happy with it
Dont let me see you start your drill with your finger on the bit again or its back to rounded sicissors

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[BudgetBronco]

Now THAT is the million dollar question.
I am not 100% confident in the actual top substrate holding up over time.
There have been several posted on here that were painted, and the jury is out on longevity of that work. Not because the prep or painting wasn't done to the best techniques, but simply due to "We don't know what exactly is going on" there with the fact that the surfaces of the MIC are changing over time.
In theory if it is due to moisture or UV, painting it should alleviate that part of the deterioration.

Going with that theory, if I were to paint a MIC I would ballpark estimate that figure at about $1500-2000.
A lot of the variation in price would be the actual surface condition of the top to start with as well as the color desired. Some paints are more expensive than others or require a midcoat of pearl vs. color and clear.

And unfortunately due to the MIC characteristics, I could not offer a guarantee of the final product.
A guarantee the prep and painting is right and will be effective and high quality, but not a guarantee that it would not delaminate in the future (actual MIC skin breaking down or coming loose) due to something changing in the substrate of the MIC.

That ballpark is on the current iteration of the MIC.
Once everything is revamped and proven, the figure would be less, because the application and block sanding of filler primer (to counteract or ward off the honeycomb texture) would not be needed. Technically a person could sand and paint without the primer in that instance. Simply spray a light-colored sealer coat and go directly to the base color.

I appreciate the detailed response. I guess we will see what these gen 2 MIC tops look like. I am a little nervous because I have seen them described as being made from POM plastic, and in researching this plastic type have seen it is very hard to paint. I guess wrapping is always an option.

Thanks also for the tip on 'wax and grease remover', I will buy some and use that when I paint the wheels.

 

[Kekov721]

definitely planning on painting my BL grill satin black

 

[Bronceaux]

I am, been doing it for about 30 years now.

Honestly I'd feel guilty if I charged more than $200 for this job, and that sounds like a lot.
Good thing is that I'd be able to get the paint and clear, and spread that cost out across several (in theory), so basically it could be done for that...

I have bought the vinyl overlays for the letters, with a plan of placing the overlays after 800 grit sanding (edges only), and prepping, then paint with a contrasting color. After paint, removing the vinyl overlays, to have gloss black front, with contrasting edges, in an attempt to achieve this effect. Any words of wisdom? The reason for wanting this is to make the black letters pop off the black grill of the base model. Another option would be having a paint shop paint them body color. But with my body color being AMB, not much contrast, until the sun hits the letters.

 

[BudgetBronco]

I have bought the vinyl overlays for the letters, with a plan of placing the overlays after 800 grit sanding (edges only), and prepping, then paint with a contrasting color. After paint, removing the vinyl overlays, to have gloss black front, with contrasting edges, in an attempt to achieve this effect. Any words of wisdom? The reason for wanting this is to make the black letters pop off the black grill of the base model. Another option would be having a paint shop paint them body color. But with my body color being AMB, not much contrast, until the sun hits the letters.

It should work! You'll need to remove the letters to do it, watch my video for instructions on that process. Other tips:
- Others suggested using a red scotch brite pad instead of sandpaper, and that is good advice
- Painting AMB body color is going to be tricky because of the metallic nature of the paint. It will have to be a multi-step process. Or you could color match the AMB but without the metallic flakes it would be easier. Either way I agree with you, if you are going to do a color to make them pop, AMB is too close to black and won't pop much at all

Good luck with the project!

 

[gentlemanbronco]

Haters will hate but I want to get mine painted chrome or maybe like a light gunmetal similar to the last gen bronco. Also I’ve been thinking of getting letters for it to say Ford or maybe even find a way to put an OG Ford badge on it.

 

[Bronceaux]

It should work! You'll need to remove the letters to do it, watch my video for instructions on that process. Other tips:
- Others suggested using a red scotch brite pad instead of sandpaper, and that is good advice
- Painting AMB body color is going to be tricky because of the metallic nature of the paint. It will have to be a multi-step process. Or you could color match the AMB but without the metallic flakes it would be easier. Either way I agree with you, if you are going to do a color to make them pop, AMB is too close to black and won't pop much at all

Good luck with the project!

Thank you! I have watched your video a few times. I plan to use a metallic titanium rattle can to paint. A little darker than silver, or white, but enough contrast between letters and grill to make the letters pop. Hopefully the vinyl overlays peel off easily after painting.

 

[BudgetBronco]

Thank you! I have watched your video a few times. I plan to use a metallic titanium rattle can to paint. A little darker than silver, or white, but enough contrast between letters and grill to make the letters pop. Hopefully the vinyl overlays peel off easily after painting.

One more thought: if I were doing this, I would probably skip the purchase of vinyl letters and instead just cover the fronts with good quality painting tape and then use a sharp exacto knife or similar blade to cut the tape to the shape of the letters. I think that would work just as well or better and save you some $ in the process. Something to consider. Let me know how it goes!

 

[Boxer4]

Ended up looking good.
I have a few critiques/ points of advice (not criticism, as he did a lot of things right, and it is a great video with good details).

-I'll start with the prep. It is very aggressive to use a 320 grit and use rattle can products. They generally have quite a bit of shrinkage when cured and typically you have to pile the product on heavy (in multi coats, not all at once) to cover those scratches. And in doing so you can compromise the quality or longevity of the paint. I recommend a red scotchbrite minimum and if using paper, no more aggressive than 600).

-I would use a prep solvent (wax and grease remover) to clean them before and after sanding. Plastics have a mold release agent that needs to be removed completely via chemicals or the paint won't stick long term.

-Glad to see the adhesion promoter. It is a must for plastic painting. Very good!

-Also very good use of the clothespins and foam block. Pretty smart stuff and I use stuff like this all the time for small parts, and it works well.

-Rattle can products do not have the longevity or protection from the elements or UV that actual vehicle paints do. It will look good for a while, but then you have to redo it. There's pretty much one time you can remove those letters and do it this way. Once you epoxy them back on, you'll be taping them off the 2nd time.

-As far as vehicle paints, you can use a 2K rattle can clear and it goes a long way and is much better than straight rattle can enamels. More in the next bullet point:
-I never recommend trying to paint a vehicle with a too-small compressor or a low-end gun (think Harbor freight or Lowes). But for small project stuff like this, you would be fine with both. Rattle can paint is cheaper, easier. Cost-wise you are looking at about $100 worth of real car base and clear, including the adhesion promoter and prep solvent. Rattle can stuff you are probably looking at around $30, so not a HUGE difference in price, but a substantial difference in quality and longevity.

-Long story short: If I did not have at least a small compressor at all or access to one and was not comfortable trying to use a paint gun, I'd do exactly what he did, the only exception being the aggressive grit of paper.

Overall I like what he did there, looks good, and a very informative, detailed video that was steady, easy to understand and hear, and good angles/perspectives. Kudos to the originator.

and this- Rust-Oleum 241526 Comfort Grip , Black , 2 in x 7.25 in - Spray Can - Amazon.com

 

[Bronceaux]

One more thought: if I were doing this, I would probably skip the purchase of vinyl letters and instead just cover the fronts with good quality painting tape and then use a sharp exacto knife or similar blade to cut the tape to the shape of the letters. I think that would work just as well or better and save you some $ in the process. Something to consider. Let me know how it goes!

Great idea, but I have already purchased the letters. I will definitely post pics. I hope to have mine in November.

 

[the1dean70]

This makes me want to cry. I want base model black plastic letters for my black diamond.

who wants to trade me some white ones?!

 

[stanger1944]

In hindsight that was dumb. I was trying to film and hold everything at the same time. Could have been a disaster, but glad it was not

Not related but is the base grille smooth or textured?

 

[BudgetBronco]

Not related but is the base grille smooth or textured?

Smooth but not glossy. Not as much texture as the fender flares or MIC top.

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