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adam1991

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2.7 only. 3.0 is still direct only.
ah, thanks for the clarification.

Didn't I read that Ford changed the 2.3 in the Mustang though? Added port injection for that application?

Here's hoping sanity reigns and manufacturers figure this out. Washing fuel over the valves is good.
 

Ducati1098

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ah, thanks for the clarification.

Didn't I read that Ford changed the 2.3 in the Mustang though? Added port injection for that application?

Here's hoping sanity reigns and manufacturers figure this out. Washing fuel over the valves is good.
Yeah 2.3 in the Mustang and Explorer both have dual fuel right now.

They aren’t doing it to necessarily wash the valves, although that’s an obvious upside. I’m sure they’re doing it for far more precise fuel control/fuel mileage/emissions reasons.
 

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On straight GDI engines like the 2.3, absolutely--with respect to valves. (Injectors, maybe it's worthwhile.)

If you have port injection--and that includes the 2.7 and 3.0--then adding cleaners to the gasoline can be beneficial, as those cleaners wash over the valves with the gas. I choose to use Top Tier gas ongoing; others choose to add over-the-counter Techron to their gas tank now and then.

Dealers will add a Techron-like something to the gas tank and charge you $100 for it, and not care if it does anything for you or not.
Just heightened awareness that places will charge you $50 and just dump an off the shelf can in the tank. Using a quality fuel with additives is the way to go. I do carry some dump in Amsoil products just in case I am at a small station in the middle of no where as insurance.
 

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cyberfalco

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Probably the easiest vehicle to change the transfer case fluid I have ever maintained. If you can change your oil, you can change the diff and transfer case fluids.
 

cyberfalco

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I don’t know if it’s air intake or direct to injectors. Would the latter not have value for combustion chamber deposits, apart from the valve backs not washed by the cleaner?
Both have benefits. Using good quality gas will typically keep your injectors clean so if they are just using a fuel additive, I would pass and continue to use a gas station I trust.
 
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I’ve scheduled 30K maintenance for Monday on my stock 22 Badlands 2.3 MT. Basically just a syn oil change, air filter, and tire rotation. I’m considering the following as well.
- Front Diff Fluid, and T-case fluid, as recommended in the manual for off-road driving. Not mentioned by the dealer, who hasn’t yet read the manual.
- Fuel system cleaner to help remove possible carbon deposits on the valves, as recommended by the dealer, who wants my money.
As for the fluids, I off-road every couple of months maybe, and the truck has seen a share of muddy trail water, Shenandoah river water, and one good dose of salt water. I’m inclined to change fluids to be on the safe side. Not sure if my off-roading qualifies for severe duty.
As for the fuel system, most of driving is very very short trips, less than 2 miles. I do wind it out on occasion, and take longer highway trips, the latter at usual speed. I run quality gasoline with detergent, often premium. I’ve read a ton of bullshit and opinion on these DI engines regarding carbon buildup, but I’ve seen no consensus on the value of these cleaners. And nah, I’m not a catch can guy.
So, what do you think? All of these items, one, or none? I plan to keep this truck forever…at least until the frame rusts from that beach bath.
Those fluid changes should be beneficial based upon a lot of the experiences posted in this thread.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/change-driveline-fluids-early.83929/

The first change on these things is important given how they wear in. And especially because you have actually really used your Bronco. I’d personally do tranny at 30K, I’m doing mine at 15K after a lot of hard highway and Offroad miles.
 
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adam1991

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To clean the valves, they

There was originally a professional tool that connected to an air compressor. I have seen that a lot of places are now using something like this.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-DQJXAifV92SjbLPrqhoCX-4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I saw some videos of that. My question is, what happens to the carbon particles this dislodges?

If they're not burned up into smoke that gets exhausted, then the system now has particles bouncing around between the combustion chamber and the catalytic converter.

If they are burned up into smoke, what effect does that smoke have on the various components and sensors in the engine and exhaust? For example, what would such smoke do against the O2 sensors?

Details, details.

So now you're down to physically removing the crud by removing the intake plenum and doing something with chemicals, walnuts/dry ice, or zip ties on a drill plus a vacuum to suck the crud out.

Or do nothing at all...
 
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gwp

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Both have benefits. Using good quality gas will typically keep your injectors clean so if they are just using a fuel additive, I would pass and continue to use a gas station I trust.
Those fluid changes should be beneficial based upon a lot of the experiences posted in this thread.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/change-driveline-fluids-early.83929/

The first change on these things is important given how they wear in. And especially because you have actually really used your Bronco. I’d personally do tranny at 30K, I’m doing mine at 15K after a lot of hard highway and Offroad miles.
My transmission only has about 15K on it….for reasons anyone with a manual might understand.
 

Area51BS

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Skip the fuel system cleaner. Does nothing. Purchase a walnut blaster made just for this for about $300 and clean the back of on your own. Plenty of videos on doing it.
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