30K Maintenance

[gwp]

I’ve scheduled 30K maintenance for Monday on my stock 22 Badlands 2.3 MT. Basically just a syn oil change, air filter, and tire rotation. I’m considering the following as well.
- Front Diff Fluid, and T-case fluid, as recommended in the manual for off-road driving. Not mentioned by the dealer, who hasn’t yet read the manual.
- Fuel system cleaner to help remove possible carbon deposits on the valves, as recommended by the dealer, who wants my money.
As for the fluids, I off-road every couple of months maybe, and the truck has seen a share of muddy trail water, Shenandoah river water, and one good dose of salt water. I’m inclined to change fluids to be on the safe side. Not sure if my off-roading qualifies for severe duty.
As for the fuel system, most of driving is very very short trips, less than 2 miles. I do wind it out on occasion, and take longer highway trips, the latter at usual speed. I run quality gasoline with detergent, often premium. I’ve read a ton of bullshit and opinion on these DI engines regarding carbon buildup, but I’ve seen no consensus on the value of these cleaners. And nah, I’m not a catch can guy.
So, what do you think? All of these items, one, or none? I plan to keep this truck forever…at least until the frame rusts from that beach bath.

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[Huntsetter1]

Changing the fluids at worst is a push. I’m good with those odds.

 

[V1Rotate]

If you've never changed the f/r diff and TCase fluids I'd 100% do that. Super easy. Would never pay anyone to do that

 

[adam1991]

Fuel system cleaner to help remove possible carbon deposits on the valves, as recommended by the dealer, who wants my money.

Ask him how this cleaner runs over the valves. Is he just dumping something into the gas tank? I'll place a bet on him saying that. Since you have the straight DI 2.3, fuel--and anything added to the fuel--doesn't go over the valves. So, any "fuel system cleaner" would do nothing for "possible carbon deposits" on the 2.3.

Valve system/combustion chamber cleaners, that's a different story. Unknown as to their efficiency or other effects on the engine and catalytic converter, but still different. And way more involved to use.

I run quality gasoline with detergent, often premium.

"Premium" means nothing more than "higher octane". It's not a statement about any other qualities of the fuel or its additives. Besides, none of it runs over your valves anyway.

I’ve read a ton of bullshit and opinion on these DI engines regarding carbon buildup, but I’ve seen no consensus on the value of these cleaners.

Straight DI engines do collect carbon on the valves, because they don't have any fuel with cleaners washing over the valves as they run. No amount of catch can is going to prevent that. Your 2.3 is such an engine. That all being said, my 7 year old 85K mile GTI is straight GDI, and it runs great and still gets the same mileage it always has and hasn't caused any problems. You're right to be skeptical.

The market has created "solutions" for GDI valve carbon cleaning, but how much of that is a solution looking for a real problem? Marketing is marketing--"I have something to sell you, let me explain why you have a problem that needs the thing I sell".

Have you looked into Seafoam? No recommendation here, just curious if you have and what you thought.

People love to fiddle and faddle, and next thing you know they're doing walnut blasting on the valves every weekend after they do their weekly oil change using $300 worth of oil plus emptying out their catch can. Because, you know, "you can't do it enough".

Ford added port injection to the 2.7 and other manufacturers are also going down this path to mitigate this issue. You can't keep valves clean unless you're keeping valves clean. But how much of an actual problem it is, I don't know. I've seen the same videos you have, and the carbon buildup is real, but is it a real problem that needs attention?

At 30K miles, I'd say absolutely not. And do ask the dealer what "fuel system cleaner" he's talking about.



SIDE NOTE:

I use nothing but Top Tier gas--specifically Costco, and Shell if necessary. They've proven to me that it's worth going that route to keep the valves and combustion chambers clean on port injected engines. I had an old high mile Lexus someone gave me, that ran more smoothly and got 2mpg better after I got it and started using Top Tier gas with high quality additive packages.

And to save on cost, Costco does something no one else does: they buy cheap gas on the spot market, then as it's being delivered they add their own additive package, right on site. This ensures that it meets their standards, without having to work specifically with any fuel vendor. They can buy whatever's available cheap on the spot market, but deliver very high quality fuel to their customers. In general, their fuel is very cheap and very high quality.

Shell fuel is very high quality, but not so inexpensive.

Cheap grocery store gas is expensive.

 

[JT58Bronc]

Definitely do driveline fluids at 30K. Good routine maintenance to change the driveline fluids on any vehicle at 30K. I'm doing front and rear diff's at 15K, will do transfer case at 30K and most likely transmission fluid as well.

 

[cyberfalco]

Fluid changes should always be done. That is cheap insurance.

Fuel system cleaning maybe a good idea as the 2.3L does not have the dual injectors, one above the valve and one below. It only has the one below so your valves could get deposit build up on top.

 

[cyberfalco]

Is it just a dump in cleaner in the gas tank or is it a pressurized fuel cleaning procedure? The pressurized cleaning procedure works. The dump in the gas tank in snake oil.

 

[cyberfalco]

For more clarification, there is a procedure to clean valves in GDI systems that involves pressurized cleaner into the air intake to clean the tops of the valves and not the injectors.

There is also a different procedure to run injector cleaner directly into the injectors which would only clean the injectors on the 2.3 since there are no top side injectors.

Then you have the useless dump in the gas tank stuff which does nothing because of how diluted it typically is.

 

[adam1991]

Fuel system cleaning maybe a good idea as the 2.3L does not have the dual injectors, one above the valve and one below. It only has the one below so your valves could get deposit build up on top.

Fuel system cleaning will have zero effect on those deposits.

 

[vbrad26]

I didn't change any fluids but did do cabin filter in addition to engine air.
So, oil change, those 2 filters, and rotation.
That was it.

 

[adam1991]

The dump in the gas tank in snake oil.

On straight GDI engines like the 2.3, absolutely--with respect to valves. (Injectors, maybe it's worthwhile.)

If you have port injection--and that includes the 2.7 and 3.0--then adding cleaners to the gasoline can be beneficial, as those cleaners wash over the valves with the gas. I choose to use Top Tier gas ongoing; others choose to add over-the-counter Techron to their gas tank now and then.

Dealers will add a Techron-like something to the gas tank and charge you $100 for it, and not care if it does anything for you or not.

 

[adam1991]

there is a procedure to clean valves in GDI systems that involves pressurized cleaner into the air intake to clean the tops of the valves and not the injectors.

Do you have a link or video that explains that? All I've ever heard of is what the Car Talk guys used to talk about.

 

[adam1991]

Then you have the useless dump in the gas tank stuff which does nothing because of how diluted it typically is.

Techron has a good reputation, and has had for a long time.

Gasoline with additives that meet the Top Tier (R) designation is designed specifically to keep injectors (and valves, if appropriate) clean ongoing.

 

[gwp]

For more clarification, there is a procedure to clean valves in GDI systems that involves pressurized cleaner into the air intake to clean the tops of the valves and not the injectors.

There is also a different procedure to run injector cleaner directly into the injectors which would only clean the injectors on the 2.3 since there are no top side injectors.

Then you have the useless dump in the gas tank stuff which does nothing because of how diluted it typically is.

I don’t know if it’s air intake or direct to injectors. Would the latter not have value for combustion chamber deposits, apart from the valve backs not washed by the cleaner?

 

[Bikeric]

I would recommend doing the f/r diff's and transfer case. I'm in the same mileage realm as you and I'm considering a drain/refill of the manual trans fluid too (but I want to research that a little more). Cabin filter was a great recommendation.

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