8" LED driving lights installed in MOD (heavy duty modular) bumper

[Bschurr]

Nicely Done! Love the black Bronco lettering also. That ordered or DYI?

Thanks
DIY - along with my hockey stripe.

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[HorizonHunter]

Cool - I saved $250+ and had the satisfaction of doing my own thing!

What you call satisfaction I'm pretty sure I would call frustration. But that's just me. Great work on that!

 

[NevadaDesertExploration]

Good looking setup…. I will have to build on this once I get my Bronco.

 

[LordElberon]

Anyone else concerned about putting lights here? I have found that this is where most of the mud builds up. I guess we will be testing the IP68 rating on these lights.

 

[JohnnyBronco]

Anyone else concerned about putting lights here? I have found that this is where most of the mud builds up. I guess we will be testing the IP68 rating on these lights.

Why? It is the exact spot factory fogs are mounted in the standard bumper. Those holes are not for cooling the crash bars

 

[wally]

Nice Job!!!

 

[Lxatoledo]

While I really love the look of the super fancy multi-light set ups from Diode Dynamics, Rigid & Baja Designs that fit the modular bumper, I am not a fan of spending $1000+ for some extra light.

I bought a pair of 8 inch Rough Country Black Series single row spot LED light bars for $59.99 each and fabricated some custom brackets and installed them in the bumper & wired them up to Aux1 (yellow wire)

Let me know what you think…

Before & After

close up

low beams

low beams with LED bars

As DRL

Some Notes:


Thank you very much - glad you like it. I enjoy doing my own work, it’s very satisfying and the positive feedback is validating.

Sorry - I didn’t document the build details with pics along the way but, it really wasn’t too difficult - just a bunch of trial & error because there is not a lot of room back there for my ham fists and I wanted to make sure the light was level and properly angled for proper output. You cannot simply mount a light bar to the bumper bolts because the bumper ends angle outward. I needed to get a little creative to mount it angled so the light is focused in front of the vehicle and not the sides - all while centering it in the bumper opening so it works well & looks good too!

Basically, there are just 2 metal brackets that I fabricated to hold each end of the light bar.

The outside mount is 1/2” wide flat bar that is 2.5” long that I drilled holes @ 1.75” on center. (I harvested this from a black powder coated L bracket). This is attached horizontally to the outermost bolt on the underside of the bumper on one end and the other end is attached to the supplied end of the light bar via a 1/2” long stainless bolt & nylon lock nut. The supplied light bar mount L bracket was installed to the bar with the end facing inward toward the center of the bar for proper clearance.

The inside mount is made from 1&3/8” wide perforated, zinc plated steel that I picked up from Lowes. I used holes that were 3.5” on center (which equates to 4 full holes). I cut this piece to length and the top is attached in a vertical orientation to a 13mm bolt on the bottom of the radiator behind the bumper. The light bar is then attached to the 4th hole down. Similar to outboard mount, I bolted the light bar mount to the steel with the same stainless hardware. BUT - I had to attach the light bar L bracket mount to the light bar with the bracket facing outward which is the opposite direction of the other side so it fits properly. Once everything is snugged up tight, I needed to bend the perforated steel backward toward the motor so the light was focused toward the center of the vehicle. Thankfully this perforated material is strong enough for mounting but malleable to bend it backward to the perfect angle.

Last few tidbits - mount the bars with the wiring end toward the center of the vehicle so you don’t see and wires and then just run the harness up and over the front underneath the plastic shroud for the radiator then along the drivers side fender and up the Aux switch connection and grounding point. BTW - I cut the supplied wiring harness apart and only used the molex end and the red (+) & black (-) cables in the supplied techflex wiring loom and used zip ties along the way to prevent anything from coming loose or chafing.

I hope this helps others with this project!

Very cool, very functional, and this is just the beginning of ingenuity on these things. Trying to throttle back from the hype associated with current after market gear. I found some (universal type) rock rails for 245-- Solid-- just a bit of welding after a mock up, then to the powder coat shop to get the color I WANT-done. In the end they will be exactly what I want. Prices on this junk ----------wow!!! Folks are sure proud of their stuff.

 

[Daktari]

nice install at a good price. If I ever find I need extra light, I'd go for something like this, the $1000+ for six little pods and a bracket are just silly IMO. I doubt they are $800+ better than this setup.

 

[710-oil-614]

Looks awesome but appears they need to be adjusted down a tad. The photo with the low beams illuminates the top of the trees.

 

[Bandit958]

Looks Great, Instant Daylight. Gives me some ideas for when I finally get mine.

 

[chris@pandamotorworks]

https://www.pandamotorworks.com/col...bronco-stage-series-6-light-bar-fog-light-kit

Media will be uploaded for the bronco next week but pricing & Pre order is live (will ship next month)

We knew we had to have a lower entry point and found the perfect way to do it with high quality output and long term warranty!

 

[BuckyAsh]

While I really love the look of the super fancy multi-light set ups from Diode Dynamics, Rigid & Baja Designs that fit the modular bumper, I am not a fan of spending $1000+ for some extra light.

I bought a pair of 8 inch Rough Country Black Series single row spot LED light bars for $59.99 each and fabricated some custom brackets and installed them in the bumper & wired them up to Aux1 (yellow wire)

Let me know what you think…

Before & After

close up

low beams

low beams with LED bars

As DRL

Some Notes:


Thank you very much - glad you like it. I enjoy doing my own work, it’s very satisfying and the positive feedback is validating.

Sorry - I didn’t document the build details with pics along the way but, it really wasn’t too difficult - just a bunch of trial & error because there is not a lot of room back there for my ham fists and I wanted to make sure the light was level and properly angled for proper output. You cannot simply mount a light bar to the bumper bolts because the bumper ends angle outward. I needed to get a little creative to mount it angled so the light is focused in front of the vehicle and not the sides - all while centering it in the bumper opening so it works well & looks good too!

Basically, there are just 2 metal brackets that I fabricated to hold each end of the light bar.

The outside mount is 1/2” wide flat bar that is 2.5” long that I drilled holes @ 1.75” on center. (I harvested this from a black powder coated L bracket). This is attached horizontally to the outermost bolt on the underside of the bumper on one end and the other end is attached to the supplied end of the light bar via a 1/2” long stainless bolt & nylon lock nut. The supplied light bar mount L bracket was installed to the bar with the end facing inward toward the center of the bar for proper clearance.

The inside mount is made from 1&3/8” wide perforated, zinc plated steel that I picked up from Lowes. I used holes that were 3.5” on center (which equates to 4 full holes). I cut this piece to length and the top is attached in a vertical orientation to a 13mm bolt on the bottom of the radiator behind the bumper. The light bar is then attached to the 4th hole down. Similar to outboard mount, I bolted the light bar mount to the steel with the same stainless hardware. BUT - I had to attach the light bar L bracket mount to the light bar with the bracket facing outward which is the opposite direction of the other side so it fits properly. Once everything is snugged up tight, I needed to bend the perforated steel backward toward the motor so the light was focused toward the center of the vehicle. Thankfully this perforated material is strong enough for mounting but malleable to bend it backward to the perfect angle.

Last few tidbits - mount the bars with the wiring end toward the center of the vehicle so you don’t see and wires and then just run the harness up and over the front underneath the plastic shroud for the radiator then along the drivers side fender and up the Aux switch connection and grounding point. BTW - I cut the supplied wiring harness apart and only used the molex end and the red (+) & black (-) cables in the supplied techflex wiring loom and used zip ties along the way to prevent anything from coming loose or chafing.

I hope this helps others with this project!

Very nice, thanks for sharing! How did you mount your license plate?

 

[daveness]

Hey thanks very much for sharing. This is a path I may take. What are your thoughts on closing up the space around the lights, either with perforated aluminum painted black or with a custom 3D printed piece? I don’t think air flow through here is needed to cool anything and it could be closed up and smooth with a 3D printed piece to allow for easy cleaning. Thoughts?

 

[Hanverg07]

That looks awesome, excellent work, I like it!

 

[Bschurr]

Hey thanks very much for sharing. This is a path I may take. What are your thoughts on closing up the space around the lights, either with perforated aluminum painted black or with a custom 3D printed piece? I don’t think air flow through here is needed to cool anything and it could be closed up and smooth with a 3D printed piece to allow for easy cleaning. Thoughts?

I am mot worried about air flow in that area but closing up the space would create a haven for debris (both on & off road) so I will mot be exploring that option.

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