Adding a 7 pin factory wiring harness

[BroncRider]

I'm going to tackle this install over the weekend. As you said, the instructions are definitely lacking. Can you share anymore about the splicing you had to do? Any tips to help reduce the head scratching coming my way would be greatly appreciated!!

The splicing was to change the wire pins to fit the plug under the driver’s side panel. It wasn’t hard, just another thing to add time to the project. I did use my own posilock splicers as the included ones weren’t the best.
Tips: taking fender liners off and reinstalling was annoyingly time consuming, get new plastic clips ahead of time. Lifting the drivers side to let the tire droop added a lot of good working space. After wrestling with the plugs under the driver’s fender, I cut the zip ties and pulled them out for better access to install wires.

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[AlpineFisher]

The splicing was to change the wire pins to fit the plug under the driver’s side panel. It wasn’t hard, just another thing to add time to the project. I did use my own posilock splicers as the included ones weren’t the best.
Tips: taking fender liners off and reinstalling was annoyingly time consuming, get new plastic clips ahead of time. Lifting the drivers side to let the tire droop added a lot of good working space. After wrestling with the plugs under the driver’s fender, I cut the zip ties and pulled them out for better access to install wires.

Thanks, I installed it over the weekend. Only a few hiccups along the way, but I think everything got sorted out.

 

[AlpineFisher]

For anyone else finding this thread for the Lumen 4/7 Pin Harness, here are a few things that would have helped me along a little faster. Sorry I didn't take pictures.

1. The bolt for the ground is super soft metal. Just tighten it down to snug or risk shearing off the head like I did. Ugh. I ended up just using a bolt and nut in the hole next to it, but it would have been nice to not over torque it.

2. If you don't pull the front fender off, which I didn't, I found it easier to disconnect the 2 plugs in the front and then slide the plug held to the inner fender back and off the t-connection holding it to the fender. The instructions "show" to just pull it out, but that wasn't working for me.

3. When reinstalling those front 2 plugs, I slid them back on the the t-connectors first and then plugged the other end back on. That went pretty smoothly.

4. You'll need to pull out an inner cover/sleeve from BOTH of the front plugs. One of them is pretty easy to pull out. The other had a couple tiny clips. If you're pushing the wires in and they aren't clicking and locking into place that's because you didn't remove the front cover.

5. Get yourself some decent weatherproof splicers first. The ones included in the kit are garbage.

6. You may need to drop the rear bumper to tighten up the bolts on the hitch after add the pin housing bracket. I have a Curt hitch and had to do this.

7. As @BroncRider said, go pick up some of the black push pins that hold on the fender liners.

8. While you're picking up the black push pins, grab a bag of the white push pins that hold on the plastic trim on the inside of the cargo area. I had 2 break rather than disconnecting.

9. Finally, I didn't update the Forscan, but things seem to be working. I haven't tested the 12v to see if it turns on, but all of the lights work.

Overall, pretty easy job. Besides shearing off the 1 bolt the thing that slowed me down the most was my wife running of my fenders on her way to the store. Surprisingly, they bent a little and have tire tread marks, but are otherwise unfazed by the ordeal. Well built fenders, I guess!

Hope these help someone else!

 

[Philyn8iv]

What I found easiest to do was offer wiring thru accessories website and select dealer installation. When you do that it then puts you over the $300 minimum to use the 20% discount code. With discount it ended up costing $339

had it installed yesterday. Dropped it off, they also performed the seatbelt recall and had vehicle back by the end of the day.

 

[Tonka Bronka]

Install is done. It was a bit of a pain, but it is a nice clean install. The instructions leave a little to be desired, had to do a lot of head scratching.
The worst part was the wire harness doesn’t have the right terminals to fit the existing plug. I toyed with it for an hour and a half before remembering there splices and 4” wire pieces in the box. These do have the correct ends so you have to cut and splice the harness… this was not in the instructions.
Hooked it up the trailer and everything works. Odd part is that the instructions state you have to get into FDRS and activate the trailer setting. I did not do that and it works, not sure why, but I’m not complaining.

So my situation is similar to yours but I have all lights and no brake signal or 12 volt charge at the plug. Can you verify that you have trailer brakes and charge without programing the module please. Thanks.

 

[Mr Toad]

Install is done. It was a bit of a pain, but it is a nice clean install. The instructions leave a little to be desired, had to do a lot of head scratching.
The worst part was the wire harness doesn’t have the right terminals to fit the existing plug. I toyed with it for an hour and a half before remembering there splices and 4” wire pieces in the box. These do have the correct ends so you have to cut and splice the harness… this was not in the instructions.
Hooked it up the trailer and everything works. Odd part is that the instructions state you have to get into FDRS and activate the trailer setting. I did not do that and it works, not sure why, but I’m not complaining.

In just finished installing the Ford/Lumen Factory tow package wiring harness and tow module. It comes preconfigured for 2023 and later, but as you mentioned, for earlier builds, you do have to splice 4 pigtails. The only part I struggled with was pulling the two connectors off the bracket in the left front wheel well so I could insert the new wires (4 in the smaller plug for the turn/brake/park signals, 1 in the larger plug for ground) from the harness into the plugs. As I recall, you have to push the larger connectors up while prying the clip hidden underneath the bottom, and pull the smaller connector down while prying the clip hidden underneath the top. I also did not configure Tow Enabled in FDRS because I don't have the computer or vehicle interface equipment, but all the lights work. Maybe that enables a tow-haul mode in the GOAT? I don't know, but if it goes in for a recall, I'll ask them to enable it in FDRS software. I'll post the instructions for others to peruse to see what it takes to do the install. You don't have to put the vehicle on a lift to do the install if you don't mind getting underneath on a creeper. The factory wiring harness is nice because all the fasteners are pre-attached to the harness and there are oval holes in the frame for each one in an exact location you can find by look and feel.

 

[Mr Toad]

I'm getting mine built without a towing package. Has anyone had the 7 pin factory wiring harness installed after delivery, so that it integrates with existing electronics. I'm trying to avoid an aftermarket break controller. Tell me the details please.

I just installed the Ford/Lumen factory tow package wiring harness from Ford Accessories. This, together with a CURT 13493 hitch receiver, replicates the factory option. It comes with an electronic module that installs inside the driver side rear panel over the wheel well, along with an external wiring harness that runs from the front driver side wheel well, where the Body Control Module outputs for turn and brake signals, among other things, terminate in connectors clipped to the inside of that wheel well behind the wheel liner. Installation does not require jacking the vehicle up, although if you have access to a lift, it does make it a little easier to get the wheel well liners detached. I did it all with the vehicle on the ground on by my back and crouching. For my 2023 Badlands Sasquatch V6, there was no cutting or splicing, but you do have to disassemble and modify two wiring connectors, insert new wires, and reassemble them. I'll post a YouTube video in the future, but am attaching the Ford/Lumen instructions which are quite thorough. The wiring harness comes with plastic studs attached in the exact locations where oval shaped holes are in the frame for exact placement. There is heat shielding where it is needed, and the wiring color codes are an exact match. I too had to remove the tow package from my spec to get my build scheduled in 2023. I saved $200 over the factory installed option, but put in an hour's labor to get it done. The electronic brake controller, if you plan on towing a trailer with electric brakes, is available as a separate option, and it integrates seamlessly with this kit.

 

[Texasliam]

Ready good info. Thanks. Would love to see a Utube. But I gotta ask why not just a simpler to install 4 pin. If you don’t have a break controller?

 

[Mr Toad]

So, BroncRider, what did you do for the trailer brake controller? It doesn't show this in the kit from Ford? Did you buy a Redarc seperately and install it? If so where did you plug it in?

Thanks

I installed the 4/7 Pin Ford-lumen Tow wiring kit. The Redrac is Ford's OEM electric brake controller and it is available on the Ford Accessories web site. It just plugs right into a connector attached to the transmission tunnel near the gas pedal. The factory install requires drilling a hole in the center floor console opposite the window switches for the Redarc gain knob. I haven't installed that yet because I mainly tow trailers with hydraulic surge brakes, but needed the 7 pin to operate the backing lock out solenoid on boat trailers with hydraulic surge disk brakes. But it is nice to know it is plug and play ready. It is about $330.

 

[Mr Toad]

Ready good info. Thanks. Would love to see a Utube. But I gotta ask why not just a simpler to install 4 pin. If you don’t have a break controller?

4 Pin is fine if the only things you tow are light trailers with no brakes or hydraulic surge drum brakes. This combines turn and brake signals on a single bulb on each side and have a separate running/tail light bulb (2 wire system). 6 pin adds a +12V line for charging the batteries of your trailer while towing. 7 pin adds reverse signal, 12V charging line and electric brake controller output. Here's a nice set of tables explaining what's on each pin: https://www.dieselhub.com/towing/trailer-wiring.html

If you pull trailers with hydraulic surge disk brakes, you need the reverse signal to lock out the brakes while backing up. The best saltwater boat trailers are rigged up this way. If you want auxiliary reverse lights to see while backing in the dark out in the bush, that reverse signal is also handy. And if you tow any larger trailer with electric brakes, you need the brake controller output. Since the Bronco is limited to 3500# gross trailer weight, if you stick strictly to that limit, it's uncommon for trailers in that weight class to have electric brakes, but some do.

 

[Mr Toad]

I had to delete the tow package to get mine built as a 2023. I just completed installation of the factory Ford/Lumen tow wiring package and Curt 13493 hitch receiver. In retrospect, I would have checked the install option for the Factory tow wiring package so they could also do the programming upfront. I'll have to get mine programmed the next time it needs any service or recall. Inserting the pins into the connectors was a little puzzling at first since I've never done anything like that before, but you can watch me struggle on video and decide if its for you.

Here's video of the install of the Curt Receiver:
And the Ford Accessory Tow wiring package:

I'll also attach the Ford installation instructions. The main advantage of going factory is integration with the other vehicle electronics that comes with programming (ABS, anti-sway, parking sensors, back up camera, BLIS) that you don't get with an other after market solutions.

Ford/Lumen Factory Tow Wiring Harness: https://accessories.ford.com/bronco...pin-trailer-hitch-wiring-harness-vp2dz15a416a
CURT 13493 Hitch Receiver: https://amzn.to/49gMorb

 

[pillar406]

Going to give this a try, found it for half the price on ebay. https://www.curtmfg.com/part/51180

I see the dirt and mud interfering with Bluetooth connection. I feel like that would be an issue in the long run.

 

[pillar406]

I'm getting mine built without a towing package. Has anyone had the 7 pin factory wiring harness installed after delivery, so that it integrates with existing electronics. I'm trying to avoid an aftermarket break controller. Tell me the details please.

I've installed a few on the Ford tow harness setups on customer vehicles. Its a pretty straight forward operation. Some of the pin locations can get confusing if you're not paying attention. Also with the one that Ford sells you have to use FDRS or I'm assuming FORSCAN will work too. You have to enter the towbar configuration feature and enable it.

 

[Mr Toad]

I see the dirt and mud interfering with Bluetooth connection. I feel like that would be an issue in the long run.

The connectors are between the wheel liner and inner steel wheel well. The wheel liner has been pulled down in the video to expose the connectors.

 

[Mr Toad]

I'm getting mine built without a towing package. Has anyone had the 7 pin factory wiring harness installed after delivery, so that it integrates with existing electronics. I'm trying to avoid an aftermarket break controller. Tell me the details please.

This post includes video and links to parts to replicate the Factory OEM tow package installation.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/adding-a-7-pin-factory-wiring-harness.77345/post-2148319

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