Adding a 7 pin factory wiring harness

[Richd748]

For anyone else finding this thread for the Lumen 4/7 Pin Harness, here are a few things that would have helped me along a little faster. Sorry I didn't take pictures.

1. The bolt for the ground is super soft metal. Just tighten it down to snug or risk shearing off the head like I did. Ugh. I ended up just using a bolt and nut in the hole next to it, but it would have been nice to not over torque it.

2. If you don't pull the front fender off, which I didn't, I found it easier to disconnect the 2 plugs in the front and then slide the plug held to the inner fender back and off the t-connection holding it to the fender. The instructions "show" to just pull it out, but that wasn't working for me.

3. When reinstalling those front 2 plugs, I slid them back on the the t-connectors first and then plugged the other end back on. That went pretty smoothly.

4. You'll need to pull out an inner cover/sleeve from BOTH of the front plugs. One of them is pretty easy to pull out. The other had a couple tiny clips. If you're pushing the wires in and they aren't clicking and locking into place that's because you didn't remove the front cover.

5. Get yourself some decent weatherproof splicers first. The ones included in the kit are garbage.

6. You may need to drop the rear bumper to tighten up the bolts on the hitch after add the pin housing bracket. I have a Curt hitch and had to do this.

7. As @BroncRider said, go pick up some of the black push pins that hold on the fender liners.

8. While you're picking up the black push pins, grab a bag of the white push pins that hold on the plastic trim on the inside of the cargo area. I had 2 break rather than disconnecting.

9. Finally, I didn't update the Forscan, but things seem to be working. I haven't tested the 12v to see if it turns on, but all of the lights work.

Overall, pretty easy job. Besides shearing off the 1 bolt the thing that slowed me down the most was my wife running of my fenders on her way to the store. Surprisingly, they bent a little and have tire tread marks, but are otherwise unfazed by the ordeal. Well built fenders, I guess!

Hope these help someone else!

Did you have to splice the wires or able to put the push pins already on the harness in the couplers? What year is your bronco?

Rich

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[Mr Toad]

Did you have to splice the wires or able to put the push pins already on the harness in the couplers? What year is your bronco?

Rich

Mr Toad is a 2023, so the Ford/Lumen tow package wiring harness did not require any splicing. But apparently for earlier model years, the pin connectors are a slightly different shape, so they include pigtails in the box that can be spliced on the end to replace the newer pin connectors. The 2023 and 2024 Broncos now ship ready for the tow package to be installed as a dealer accessory rather than a factory build option to help remove the tow package as a production constraint.

 

[Richd748]

Mr Toad is a 2023, so the Ford/Lumen tow package wiring harness did not require any splicing. But apparently for earlier model years, the pin connectors are a slightly different shape, so they include pigtails in the box that can be spliced on the end to replace the newer pin connectors. The 2023 and 2024 Broncos now ship ready for the tow package to be installed as a dealer accessory rather than a factory build option to help remove the tow package as a production constraint.

I have a black diamond 2023 and the ford accessories dept told me they would have to splice them, as that's what they have been doing. I'll have to pull my liner and see what's there.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[Mr Toad]

I have a black diamond 2023 and the ford accessories dept told me they would have to splice them, as that's what they have been doing. I'll have to pull my liner and see what's there.

Thanks,

Rich

If you can get them to install it for the $120 that was quoted on the Ford Accessories web site, it may be well worth the money because only a Ford dealership with an active FDRS license can program the vehicle electronics to fully activate the tow package module to integrate it with the vehicle stability programming and other features. Some dealerships want $80 just to enable the Towbar configuration feature in the FDRS software. The trailer lights all work without programming, but the 12V power to the 7pin isn't live, and the trailer sway option isn't available on the dashboard without programming. I'm waiting for the next recall to get it programmed. You can look at the video I posted to see the connector styles. I'll post a screen cap of what the connectors look like that don't need splicing.

The Ford/Lumen manual also clearly shows the two different style connectors and where the splicing may be required. Your parts guy may be getting it wrong, but the instructions specify model years 2023 and 2024 don't need any modification to the harness, and mine certainly didn't need any splicing. It is possible you have a 2022 wiring harness if it was started on the assembly line before they switched to the current wiring harness. If you do decide you have to do the splicing, pay for some good adhesive lined heat shrink protected butt connectors because that location in the wheelwell above the fabric liner is a bit suspect.

 

[BigFootie]

I have a black diamond 2023 and the ford accessories dept told me they would have to splice them, as that's what they have been doing. I'll have to pull my liner and see what's there.

Thanks,

Rich

I believe that was a Job2 change meaning vehicles built after July 1st 2023.

 

[Richd748]

If you can get them to install it for the $120 that was quoted on the Ford Accessories web site, it may be well worth the money because only a Ford dealership with an active FDRS license can program the vehicle electronics to fully activate the tow package module to integrate it with the vehicle stability programming and other features. Some dealerships want $80 just to enable the Towbar configuration feature in the FDRS software. The trailer lights all work without programming, but the 12V power to the 7pin isn't live, and the trailer sway option isn't available on the dashboard without programming. I'm waiting for the next recall to get it programmed. You can look at the video I posted to see the connector styles. I'll post a screen cap of what the connectors look like that don't need splicing.

The Ford/Lumen manual also clearly shows the two different style connectors and where the splicing may be required. Your parts guy may be getting it wrong, but the instructions specify model years 2023 and 2024 don't need any modification to the harness, and mine certainly didn't need any splicing. It is possible you have a 2022 wiring harness if it was started on the assembly line before they switched to the current wiring harness. If you do decide you have to do the splicing, pay for some good adhesive lined heat shrink protected butt connectors because that location in the wheelwell above the fabric liner is a bit suspect.

Thanks for the response, my connectors look just like yours. Only two wires in the black connector like in the video.

 

[AlpineFisher]

Did you have to splice the wires or able to put the push pins already on the harness in the couplers? What year is your bronco?

Rich

I have a 2021. The kit comes with 2 sets of push pins. I had to splice in the extra set since those are the ones that fit my harness. Once I realized that it was super easy.

 

[351W-Bronco]

In just finished installing the Ford/Lumen Factory tow package wiring harness and tow module. It comes preconfigured for 2023 and later, but as you mentioned, for earlier builds, you do have to splice 4 pigtails. The only part I struggled with was pulling the two connectors off the bracket in the left front wheel well so I could insert the new wires (4 in the smaller plug for the turn/brake/park signals, 1 in the larger plug for ground) from the harness into the plugs. As I recall, you have to push the larger connectors up while prying the clip hidden underneath the bottom, and pull the smaller connector down while prying the clip hidden underneath the top. I also did not configure Tow Enabled in FDRS because I don't have the computer or vehicle interface equipment, but all the lights work. Maybe that enables a tow-haul mode in the GOAT? I don't know, but if it goes in for a recall, I'll ask them to enable it in FDRS software. I'll post the instructions for others to peruse to see what it takes to do the install. You don't have to put the vehicle on a lift to do the install if you don't mind getting underneath on a creeper. The factory wiring harness is nice because all the fasteners are pre-attached to the harness and there are oval holes in the frame for each one in an exact location you can find by look and feel.

THANK YOU for these instructions. I've been on a six month journey with Accessories.Ford and a dealer to get the harness and brake controller installed (I'll post a full documentation once things get squared away - assuming they do). The latest issue was the technician said the right plugs weren't on my Bronco. Now, looking at the instructions, I'm giuessing he didn't pay attention to the MY21-MY22 vs MY23 differences. They service department said they even checked with Lumen who said they never made a trailer harness compatible with the 7sp manual transmission. These instructions have given me some ammunition to go back to them and ask some hard questions.

Herb

 

[Stickman]

You’re a good man, Mr. Toad! Your great work, attention to detail and willingness to teach us what you learned made my install seamless.
(Although, I’m currently struggling with those clips mounted to the side of the engine bay)
Thank you, sir!

 

[Stickman]

In just finished installing the Ford/Lumen Factory tow package wiring harness and tow module. It comes preconfigured for 2023 and later, but as you mentioned, for earlier builds, you do have to splice 4 pigtails. The only part I struggled with was pulling the two connectors off the bracket in the left front wheel well so I could insert the new wires (4 in the smaller plug for the turn/brake/park signals, 1 in the larger plug for ground) from the harness into the plugs. As I recall, you have to push the larger connectors up while prying the clip hidden underneath the bottom, and pull the smaller connector down while prying the clip hidden underneath the top. I also did not configure Tow Enabled in FDRS because I don't have the computer or vehicle interface equipment, but all the lights work. Maybe that enables a tow-haul mode in the GOAT? I don't know, but if it goes in for a recall, I'll ask them to enable it in FDRS software. I'll post the instructions for others to peruse to see what it takes to do the install. You don't have to put the vehicle on a lift to do the install if you don't mind getting underneath on a creeper. The factory wiring harness is nice because all the fasteners are pre-attached to the harness and there are oval holes in the frame for each one in an exact location you can find by look and feel.

I’m not sure if this will help anyone, but I would have liked to see it before attempting to remove those clips. Thank goodness Mr. Toad had explained the direction that both harness clips slide off in his video. That was my only roadmap. It was awkward to try to snap photos, so apologies that the orientation isn’t better.
the larger clip attachment under the fender has that little lip or extension tab facing up towards the hood and slightly towards the cab. I’d say about a 15° to 20° tilt. The smaller one faces down. It’s about two inches away from the larger one in the direction of the cab. It runs parallel to the other.

The larger one slide in the upwards position (in line with that slight tilt) and the smaller slides down.

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