Advice on Method rims

[userdude]

No one is locked into anything..... anything can be changed... If you change gear ratio, does that lock you in? I do not want a "buggy".... NOT the wheeling I want to do. I like something I can daily and at the same time I can go to places that I want to go.... Do I need the portals to get there? NO. but it sure makes it easier to get there.... I am not hitting the skids very often. I have enough clearance, I just clear.... That is a really good feeling. Worth every single penny to me.

I don't know exactly what @Snacktime is referring, but my guess is having to chop the axles to mount them means you'd have to change the axles to remove them, right?

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[userdude]

In hindsight my 4WP trans skid is too heavy. I'd have liked to just yolo and go full aluminum under tray with the fancy plastic sliders.

You referring to the NVM aluminum trans plate with cutting board material (UHMW)?

 

[userdude]

So I've never bought rims except what came on a car already. Method is pushing a "lug kit" with lug nuts. There's no reason I need this, right? I would just use my current lug nuts?

 

[Snacktime]

So I've never bought rims except what came on a car already. Method is pushing a "lug kit" with lug nuts. There's no reason I need this, right? I would just use my current lug nuts?

You may want low profile nuts, some wheels have tight reliefs that don't allow full size sockets. I have to use a low profile impact socket on my lug nuts.

 

[userdude]

You may want low profile nuts, some wheels have tight reliefs that don't allow full size sockets. I have to use a low profile impact socket on my lug nuts.

Good point. I'll have to take a look at that then. I guess the 55cal bullet lugs are out...

 

[Aonarch]

You referring to the NVM aluminum trans plate with cutting board material (UHMW)?

That is the one!

So I've never bought rims except what came on a car already. Method is pushing a "lug kit" with lug nuts. There's no reason I need this, right? I would just use my current lug nuts?

You will want/ need them.

You may want low profile nuts, some wheels have tight reliefs that don't allow full size sockets. I have to use a low profile impact socket on my lug nuts.

Exactly.

The Gorilla multi-spline lugs are what I use. Very low profile. They also work like lock nuts. Any professional wheel thief can zap them right off, just like lock nuts. But any amateur trying to steal your spare will struggle.

There are a few different types of lug nuts seats, the two most common being conical and ball conical. They have other names like acorn, ball, etc.

So that is consideration #1, making sure you have the correct seat for the aftermarket wheels.

Then obviously thread pitch and size for the studs/ wheel bolts.

Then thread engagement. I want an absolute minimum of 6 turns of the lug on the stud. I'd prefer much more than that. The lug nuts don't really hold the wheel on, the friction between the hub and the back of the wheel does. The lugs just keep that contact point firm.

 

[Snacktime]

I don't know exactly what @Snacktime is referring, but my guess is having to chop the axles to mount them means you'd have to change the axles to remove them, right?

I am referring to axle splines, you are locking yourself in. The full float rear setup is an improvement but your still limited to m220 splines and ring gear. The front you are going to be limited by the stock spine count at the portal. It's a hard limit, not really worried about the front. A Dana 60 or larger rear will be a healthy upgrade but if you have to run smaller splines at the portals you lose a lot of the benefits.

At some point we are going to start getting a few more players in the axle game.

 

[5GENIDN]

I don't know exactly what @Snacktime is referring, but my guess is having to chop the axles to mount them means you'd have to change the axles to remove them, right?

Only cutting an 1-1/4 inch off the fronts.... Front Shafts can be changed out easily....

 

[One more upgrade]

The 703's are what I was looking at. I was confused on the spacer thing, but this is what I'm thinking now. I wonder if I went positive 35 then I could go with a spacer if I need one (I'm cutting the crash bar mounts off soon). I think that was what I meant to say yesterday, because a spacer on a 0 offset would be pretty wide! And I don't want wide.

https://www.methodracewheels.com/co...cts/703-gloss-titanium?variant=39550687903805

I love my beadgrip wheels. There are no issues with lower PSI, and I think Method makes great-looking wheels.

 

[Dantastic]

@userdude

Thanks again for your helping me talk through the STT Pro differences on my thread.

Found this thread, while researching wheels. I am in the same boat of wanting to be ready for 37s, when the time comes to install them. What did you end up doing? I was going to do the 1.2" Moshimoto Wheel spacer on stock sas (honestly to save money), but I really want to save on weight to help offset the heaviness of the STT Pros.

 

[userdude]

@userdude

Thanks again for your helping me talk through the STT Pro differences on my thread.

Found this thread, while researching wheels. I am in the same boat of wanting to be ready for 37s, when the time comes to install them. What did you end up doing? I was going to do the 1.2" Moshimoto Wheel spacer on stock sas (honestly to save money), but I really want to save on weight to help offset the heaviness of the STT Pros.

I haven't changed them out; I didn't want to spend the money. Note that the savings from the rim matters less than the savings in the tire due to physics (hand waving here). So saving 10lbs on the rim is more like 5-7lbs of tire weight savings.

I have 73lbs 35's on my stock 2.3 2dr with Sas rims and I feel them, but not that much. I did lose 2-4 mpg. Unless you're just really set on 37's, I'd say look for truer 35's; you'll probably be just as happy.

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