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ARB single compressor mounting options

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Oh yeah totally not saying it’s the same quality, but it would be sufficient for a mount. Again not saying your product isn’t quality, just saying it’s out of my budget
It's actually not sufficient for a mount. The reason we had to use 10 gauge was to support the twin compressor. It's HEAVY. About 20 pounds or so. If I could have used thinner stainless I would have but the thinner metal flexed too much. Thus the thicker/more expensive 10 gauge.

I know your not knocking our product. I enjoy discussing the "workings" when it comes to product and what not. It took us months to develop this and lots and lots and LOTS of samples of various sizes/styles. Stainless Steel, Aluminum, thinner steel, heavier steel. 10 gauge was the sweet spot for quality and price.
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lakesinai

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I’ll shamelessly plug my install piggybacking off of @allhorse install. In two parts
I like your engineering and design skill, but I worry about the confined location. My concern with those underfloor spaces is (1) noise in the car, (2) the heat of the working compressor deforming the plastic bin, or worse, and lack of air flow & air supply, and lack of cooling ventilation causing more damage. Its been a couple of months. Any issues?
 

lakesinai

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Excluding the KR mount, how else are people mounting the smaller arb compressor? I thought I saw someone mount it vertically to the rear of the engine bay but I can’t seem to find the post. I can’t justify hundreds of dollars for a bracket.
If you plan to mount in a tight engine bay, the bracket is worth it. It solves positioning issues in a tight space, bolts in place well, includes fasteners and bracket, and is powder coated. If it was easy to engineer, ARB would have had one ready to sell with their pump, but amazingly, they did not! I held off buying their pump for awhile because there was no known way to install an ARB compressor under the hood, All last year! This KR one is bent and formed just right, and solves the problem. ARB had pre-production development time with FORD, but didnt have a workable, sellable mounting bracket for one the top selling off-road air pumps in the world, for the launch of one of the most important new off road vehicles in decades? Amazing. Must have been the global Covid-19 shut down.

Kudos to 4x4 LED/KR for getting to market first, giving us an option to mount our ARB compressor under the hood this year!
 

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If you plan to mount in a tight engine bay, the bracket is worth it. It solves positioning issues in a tight space, bolts in place well, includes fasteners and bracket, and is powder coated. If it was easy to engineer, ARB would have had one ready to sell with their pump, but amazingly, they did not! I held off buying their pump for awhile because there was no known way to install an ARB compressor under the hood, All last year! This KR one is bent and formed just right, and solves the problem. ARB had pre-production development time with FORD, but didnt have a workable, sellable mounting bracket for one the top selling off-road air pumps in the world, for the launch of one of the most important new off road vehicles in decades? Amazing. Must have been the global Covid-19 shut down.

Kudos to 4x4 LED/KR for getting to market first, giving us an option to mount our ARB compressor under the hood this year!
Thanks. It was no easy task and took us about 6-8 weeks to dial it in.
 

Designkid

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I like your engineering and design skill, but I worry about the confined location. My concern with those underfloor spaces is (1) noise in the car, (2) the heat of the working compressor deforming the plastic bin, or worse, and lack of air flow & air supply, and lack of cooling ventilation causing more damage. Its been a couple of months. Any issues?
Noise isn’t an issue as it’s under the rubberized floor panel and my steel pullout drawer. I also ran a fresh air intake from behind the cargo side panel. Heat hasn’t been an issue but that may be because it’s only a single and haven’t done a full inflate in temps over 75ish. I’ll have a real test with some heat as I’m going out in week. I’ll also add this location is no where nearly as hot as under the hood, hung over a couple hundred or so degree turbo….constantly…. Day after day. Just a thought
 

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Noise isn’t an issue as it’s under the rubberized floor panel and my steel pullout drawer. I also ran a fresh air intake from behind the cargo side panel. Heat hasn’t been an issue but that may be because it’s only a single and haven’t done a full inflate in temps over 75ish. I’ll have a real test with some heat as I’m going out in week. I’ll also add this location is no where nearly as hot as under the hood, hung over a couple hundred or so degree turbo….constantly…. Day after day. Just a thought
Nice! Enjoy! Well thought out install.
 

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I like the under hood mount- but yeah- 250.00 is on the high side.
 

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I like the under hood mount- but yeah- 250.00 is on the high side.
Wish we could make it cheaper, but we cannot. It's 10 gauge stainless steel. Stainless steel is EXPENSIVE. Then powder coating is getting expensive as well (steel went up over the last 2 years BIG TIME). People don't realize how thick 10 gauge is... it increases the cost by about 50%. We're toying with the idea on going with 1 gauge thinner to save $$. I had an 11 gauge prototype made that we need to install still to test it's strength. But that would allow us to lower the price if it can support the heavy twin (it'll work for the single)
 

waveform55

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I’ll shamelessly plug my install piggybacking off of @allhorse install. In two parts
This is amazing and something I was REALLY toying around with doing -- American Adventure Lab developed some brackets and organization for this very same setup in the floor cubby. I was wondering how the air and wiring went. I'll have to dig into that particular thread and see how it pans out because I'm really thinking of going all-in with AAL for their floor bin option as well as their MASS system. Thanks!
 

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Wish we could make it cheaper, but we cannot. It's 10 gauge stainless steel. Stainless steel is EXPENSIVE. Then powder coating is getting expensive as well (steel went up over the last 2 years BIG TIME). People don't realize how thick 10 gauge is... it increases the cost by about 50%. We're toying with the idea on going with 1 gauge thinner to save $$. I had an 11 gauge prototype made that we need to install still to test it's strength. But that would allow us to lower the price if it can support the heavy twin (it'll work for the single)
Can I ask if you’re using stainless then why powder coat it? Offer people a raw stainless, that would save money or next if your are powder coating it use regular steel and not stainless, this would also drastically reduce the price. Seems overkill to me, 20lbs is heavy but still does not require powder coated stainless
 

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Can I ask if you’re using stainless then why powder coat it? Offer people a raw stainless, that would save money or next if your are powder coating it use regular steel and not stainless, this would also drastically reduce the price. Seems overkill to me, 20lbs is heavy but still does not require powder coated stainless
ive spent many years watching regular powder coated steel get dinged up over the course of a vehicles life and start rusting - that’s why every KR Off-Road product is made from rust resistant materials (such as aluminum or stainless steel) and carry’s a lifetime warranty

the powder coated finish makes the final product look better and blend in - rather then having a big stainless steel panel visible the black blends In nicely

sure we could make it outta steel and sell if for less but we want to offer a lifetime warranty and ZERO worry about rust on our products
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