Audio Solution UNDER $1K????

[Danny's Bronco]

Still still better than the factory stereo system…

Can we discuss the karaoke function? Any roll bar mounts?



Jokes aside I am right there with the OP. SO many threads and this is right on the edge of what I feel comfortable DIY. The electronics are sooo much more complicated than the stuff my buddies and I were doing back in the 90's. Local stereo shop gave me a $5k quote for replacing speakers and adding amp, sub, and the DSP thing. I am stuck waiting for delivery trying to figure out what I want to do. My 4dr had no sub and sounded like poop.

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[Alex Sector]

I installed everything by myself in one weekend. Could have done it all in one day, but I also installed some other items including mud flaps which were time consuming.

The two front speakers are pretty easy, the rear pods are very easy, and the kick panels and sub are not difficult. I was worried about FORScan, but just duplicated what someone else did and added Sport mode and removed some chimes while I was at it.

I started with High package with subwoofer delete. I did not install an amp - still debating if plug and play kicker key for $500 is worth it since it sounds good enough to me. The last audio install I did was 10 years ago on a 2007 Jeep Wrangler.

Follow the guides here and you will be fine.

 

[Pressurized]

Here's a write up that I did for another member..

Based on a stock system upgrade, I would do the dash, the upgraded rear pods with 6.75's, the Fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75 4ohm sub. And the Forscan changes to get it all working.

I personally did a mixture of speakers (I started with Infinity REF series, but the angled tweeter doesn't fit the mabett pods) due to not knowing how tight the grill fit was on the Mabett rear speaker pods. If I was doing it again, this is what I would use. The Hertz speakers are very efficient, so added volume without adding power.

Hertz DCX 100.3
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3349276977...=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hertz DCX 170.3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLYMPH1R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://teamequip.com/fomoco-fp5t-1...ystem-amplifier-for-ford-fusion-fp5t18c808ab/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFKN769?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0952P4MLP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://a.co/d/fcKS9VD

Hopefully all of those links work. Obviously, if you find a better price on the item, go for it.

Forscan changes: sub turn on - rear change to speaker - EQ off.

The bass blocker for the front dash is needed and those harnesses make them plug and play, super convenient. Also, I lined the factory sub enclosure with sound mat and even put some on the exterior of the sub enclosure. I made some pads to go over the sub enclosure mounting points also to make sure it didn't rattle. Also did the interior of the Mabett rear speaker pods with sound mat to dampen the hollowness of the plastic pods.

That setup should run you around $700... Pretty close to what I have only a slight improvement in the speakers over what I chose. As I said above, this is how I would do it now. It will sound good, be pretty balanced and make "most" people happy. It will not have huge bass or volume. As an old audio guy, I always think I could use more... My wife says I'm nuts and that it sounds great to her.

At this time, I haven't found any reason to change out the factory kick panel speakers if you aren't also putting in an aftermarket amp to drive the front channels. If you do need that next step, there is a Hertz Woofer for that spot and the Kicker Key 200.4 or Musway Four.100 with plug and play harnesses that adds about $600 or $1000 to the project... But then the front will over power the basically stock subwoofer and you are then looking at a sub enclosure and amp for the back, just to balance it out, which is another $825. And that's how you go from $700 to $2100+ in nothing flat...

 

[DJ1]

Picked up my Wildtrak with high package last week and thoroughly impressed with the vehicle. However, the audio system is the absolute worst I’ve ever had in any vehicle. There is Zero bass and sounds tinny. Mine does NOT have the B&O and Ford deleted the Sub. Is there a solution for under $1000 installed that gives a drastic difference with some bass?

What is your frame of reference? Meaning have you had well built car audio systems before? If not, go with what everyone has said, do a Kicker key amp, speakers and some kind of sub and amp. If I was trying to upgrade the audio for $1K, I would do a 5-channel amp with decent power, front speakers and a sub already fitted in a box. Forget the rear speakers for now, you can always upgrade those later with a simple drop in.

 

[Broncobren]

Solid advice, thanks. My frame of reference is multiple stock systems ranging from F150’s to Teslas to an Acadia.

 

[dms-loudounva]

Here's a write up that I did for another member..

Based on a stock system upgrade, I would do the dash, the upgraded rear pods with 6.75's, the Fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75 4ohm sub. And the Forscan changes to get it all working.

I personally did a mixture of speakers (I started with Infinity REF series, but the angled tweeter doesn't fit the mabett pods) due to not knowing how tight the grill fit was on the Mabett rear speaker pods. If I was doing it again, this is what I would use. The Hertz speakers are very efficient, so added volume without adding power.

I've done a pretty similar upgrade on the usual base sub delete situation. Started with the Fusion amp (link above in the thread) and the Kicker 48CWRT674 sub. Finally some bass!

About $200 including trim tools (Crutchfield's aren't the best but do the job). Not including the cable and Forscan. The panels are a bit of a pain (my more engineering minded daughter helped me), but we managed to do it without breaking any clips except one stupid tab which we superglued back on.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html

Then I decided on Focal ACX 100 and 165 speakers, starting with the dash and kick panels. They're efficient so actually sound fine running off the stock head unit, except maybe top down over 50mph when the sound gets a bit harsh turned up. But otherwise, what a difference from the pathetic stock speakers! I quickly decided to replace the rear pods with the same ACX 100's. Didn't want to do the bigger pods.

All 6 speakers added about $380. Wiring harnesses supplied for free.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

I don't actually have any bass blockers in place, and I've turned off the EQ for the rear pods and set everything to speaker not tweeter in Forscan. I guess that's not what most people are doing. I figure they're all full range speakers (the 4" ones are rated down to 80hz). As long as it sounds good?

Next I got a notification from Crutchfield that the Key 200.4 was back in stock (already sold out again) so I snagged one of those. Haven't ordered a harness yet. Once/if I install that I'll be up to about $870 total so far.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KEY20/Kicker-47KEY200-4.html

Someone helpfully pointed out that with the dash and kick panel speakers wired together (thanks Ford) that would present a 2 ohm load to the Key amp, which it isn't rated for. I'm thinking of running new wires to the dash speakers and running the amp in bi-amp mode, leaving the rear pods on the factory head unit only. Not ideal - no DSP on the rear pods - but then the front speakers could have separate hi-pass filter settings on the amp and be EQed by the DSP separately.

The Musway amps that PnP is offering sound tempting (no doubt a big step up from the 200.4), especially 6 ch with DSP, but my wife already thinks I'm kind of mad so I'll probably stop here. It actually sounds plenty good enough at normal volume now, not in a hurry to install the amp, though I'm hoping the DSP can help with the various sound bumps from the Bronco's not designed for audio interior.

Lots of different variations on a theme in these threads.

 

[Pressurized]

I've done a pretty similar upgrade on the usual base sub delete situation. Started with the Fusion amp (link above in the thread) and the Kicker 48CWRT674 sub. Finally some bass!

About $200 including trim tools (Crutchfield's aren't the best but do the job). Not including the cable and Forscan. The panels are a bit of a pain (my more engineering minded daughter helped me), but we managed to do it without breaking any clips except one stupid tab which we superglued back on.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html

Then I decided on Focal ACX 100 and 165 speakers, starting with the dash and kick panels. They're efficient so actually sound fine running off the stock head unit, except maybe top down over 50mph when the sound gets a bit harsh turned up. But otherwise, what a difference from the pathetic stock speakers! I quickly decided to replace the rear pods with the same ACX 100's. Didn't want to do the bigger pods.

All 6 speakers added about $380. Wiring harnesses supplied for free.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

I don't actually have any bass blockers in place, and I've turned off the EQ for the rear pods and set everything to speaker not tweeter in Forscan. I guess that's not what most people are doing. I figure they're all full range speakers (the 4" ones are rated down to 80hz). As long as it sounds good?

Next I got a notification from Crutchfield that the Key 200.4 was back in stock (already sold out again) so I snagged one of those. Haven't ordered a harness yet. Once/if I install that I'll be up to about $870 total so far.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KEY20/Kicker-47KEY200-4.html

Someone helpfully pointed out that with the dash and kick panel speakers wired together (thanks Ford) that would present a 2 ohm load to the Key amp, which it isn't rated for. I'm thinking of running new wires to the dash speakers and running the amp in bi-amp mode, leaving the rear pods on the factory head unit only. Not ideal - no DSP on the rear pods - but then the front speakers could have separate hi-pass filter settings on the amp and be EQed by the DSP separately.

The Musway amps that PnP is offering sound tempting (no doubt a big step up from the 200.4), especially 6 ch with DSP, but my wife already thinks I'm kind of mad so I'll probably stop here. It actually sounds plenty good enough at normal volume now, not in a hurry to install the amp, though I'm hoping the DSP can help with the various sound bumps from the Bronco's not designed for audio interior.

Lots of different variations on a theme in these threads.

Well, the lower frequencies are still sent to the 4" without bass blockers and that can cause them to distort and even pop at higher volumes. It's both protection and sound quality. I went with 600hz, but some have had success with the 300hz. Depending on the volume you listen at, you might not be maxing them out as it is.

You can disassemble the connector at the kick panel and rewire in series instead of parallel and that would raise the impedance at the Kicker and not cause you to run hot. I want to say that @RagnarKon did that on his.

 

[Brian’sBronco]

So just got done with the stereo upgrades and for under $700 you can get the Fusion amp, Kicker 6.75” sub, Infinity Reference 4932CFX for the dash with the bass blocker harness, and Infinity Reference 6532IX for the rear installed in the SSV pods. What a big difference in sound quality and you can actually get it loud enough to hear over the wind noise. I’d say it sounds better the the B&O system for way less money.

 

[SeanMTX]

You've got all the info you need here, but in case you need more...this is the difference between the stock rear roll bar pods and upgrades from SSV which are plug and play.

My plan is to keep these rear pods, add a Fusion amp and 6.5" Sub. The stupid plastic panel pins and Forscan are the only things I'm worried about.

 

[Bronceaux]

You've got all the info you need here, but in case you need more...this is the difference between the stock rear roll bar pods and upgrades from SSV which are plug and play.

My plan is to keep these rear pods, add a Fusion amp and 6.5" Sub. The stupid plastic panel pins and Forscan are the only things I'm worried about.

Have you been pleased with the SSV? Drastic improvement?

 

[SeanMTX]

Have you been pleased with the SSV? Drastic improvement?

Oh yes...massive improvement in sound quality and loudness. As others here have mentioned, they're almost a little TOO clean. There is almost zero bass out of these and they need some to even them out. Putting these in convinced me that I need the sub. Sub has been purchased, and all I need to buy is Forscan and get started.

As a coonass, I appreciate your handle Bronceaux!

 

[Bronceaux]

Oh yes...massive improvement in sound quality and loudness. As others here have mentioned, they're almost a little TOO clean. There is almost zero bass out of these and they need some to even them out. Putting these in convinced me that I need the sub. Sub has been purchased, and all I need to buy is Forscan and get started.

As a coonass, I appreciate your handle Bronceaux!

Thank you Brother! I have a soft spot for Louisiana, the Cajun and Creole cultures, and the food. If that would have fit, I would have put it on my personalized plate. I will probably add some, and the Kicker Key 200.4, I have upgraded speakers to JBL (all 6), and added an under-the-seat JBL sub. Not sure if I will do the FORSCan mod, or have the rear speaker flash done.

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