AUX Switch Amperage - Increase?

[5GENIDN]

I did like kind of like Dover157, although I made my own relay box.... I can use any one of the aux switches for anything I want... I just run heavy gage wire where I need it straight from the new relay box. I have all the aux switches wired up to the relays and leads marked as to which switch they are controlled by.

very safely running a 25 amp load on aux 6... using 12 gage wire.

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[Dover157]

I did like kind of like Dover157, although I made my own relay box.... I can use any one of the aux switches for anything I want... I just run heavy gage wire where I need it straight from the new relay box. I have all the aux switches wired up to the relays and leads marked as to which switch they are controlled by.

very safely running a 25 amp load on aux 6... using 12 gage wire.

I thought of doing something like that but when I found the box from RC my inner laziness won

 

[Bschurr]

So even AUX #6 will work fine??

Yup - Aux 6 is rated at 10 amps.

 

[DewarT]

So- If I am reading that table correctly, Aux1 & Aux2 have higher load capacity as they are using the 1.5mm wire, but Aux2 is fused at 15A. Since they have the same wire and same switch, Aux2 could simply benefit from a fuse change to 30A... is that correct?

Also- all 'Non-Powered' circuits are designed to support the 30A load as they are prewired with the same 1.5mm wire?

Is there any other literature from Ford indicating the maximum load rating of these circuits in use- or is that their position as stated in the table?

Before I get totally flamed- the Relay option is the best way to power lights and other high load circuits, but does require more effort to run wires to the desired locations...

 

[V1Rotate]

So- If I am reading that table correctly, Aux1 & Aux2 have higher load capacity as they are using the 1.5mm wire, but Aux2 is fused at 15A. Since they have the same wire and same switch, Aux2 could simply benefit from a fuse change to 30A... is that correct?

Also- all 'Non-Powered' circuits are designed to support the 30A load as they are prewired with the same 1.5mm wire?

Is there any other literature from Ford indicating the maximum load rating of these circuits in use- or is that their position as stated in the table?

Before I get totally flamed- the Relay option is the best way to power lights and other high load circuits, but does require more effort to run wires to the desired locations...

I’m assuming Ford did their litigation homework to determine they’re protected but running anywhere close to 30 amps on any more than a couple feet of 16awg wire (~1.5mm) seems sketchy.

Even though all of the stuff I’m running via the switches are within the stated amperage I still have a few of the switches run to an additional relay and heavy duty wiring

 

[SROC3]

I installed the Rough country MLC 6. Makes all 6 switches 30amp with double relay and fuse protection. Also makes installing and changing what’s on each switch a breeze.

NICE! That's DEF gonna be an option down the road Thanks everyone so far for your HELP!!!! Great Stuff!!!!!

 

[swooshdave]

It is crazy ford gives ya switches and wiring that do not have the capacity to power many devices we want/need to hook up…the prerun wires are almost useless because they are so small…end of rant…

Weak rant.

Upfitters will run any lights and most accessories you want.

Are you pissy because they won't run your winch?

 

[Oldhippie]

Weak rant.

Upfitters will run any lights and most accessories you want.

Are you pissy because they won't run your winch?

Actually I am having problems with the stock fog circuit powering DD fogs, they keep cycling on and off like tripping a breaker…may have to add a relay with real power and proper wires…like I did with all my other lights…and no the aux circuits would not safely power my Daylighters either…leave alone the serious light bars out there…

 

[DewarT]

Actually I am having problems with the stock fog circuit powering DD fogs, they keep cycling on and off like tripping a breaker…may have to add a relay with real power and proper wires…like I did with all my other lights…and no the aux circuits would not safely power my Daylighters either…leave alone the serious light bars out there…

I thought the KC Pro6 Gravity LEDs were 1.78a each... with a 50" being 8 lights, a lightbar would only require ~14.3a at full load... Seems like either of the first two aux switches 'should' be able to handle that for a KC lightbar.

 

[swooshdave]

Actually I am having problems with the stock fog circuit powering DD fogs, they keep cycling on and off like tripping a breaker…may have to add a relay with real power and proper wires…like I did with all my other lights…and no the aux circuits would not safely power my Daylighters either…leave alone the serious light bars out there…

Stock fog light circuit ins't the same as the aux switches.

How many Daylighters were you running on a single switch? What are the lights rated at?

 

[Sea Monkey]

I installed the Rough country MLC 6. Makes all 6 switches 30amp with double relay and fuse protection. Also makes installing and changing what’s on each switch a breeze.

Nice. I really like the idea of replacing the stock relay box with something like this. But I would just want to use my upfitter switches to turn on the relays and use heavier gauge wire from the MLC-6 out to my accessories, instead of using the Bronco's smaller gauge pre-run wiring. I'm not really happy about running 20-30A through 18AWG.

Also, did you have any hood clearance issues with the MLC-6?

 

[Dover157]

Also, did you have any hood clearance issues with the MLC-6?

Yes there are some fitment isssues. Without the battery hold down it fits fine but the added thickness of that bracket under it makes it about 1/4” too tall. Have my hood stops up higher enough for the hood to be flush with the fenders and there is still some rubbing. I modified the shape of the MLC cover with a hammer on the end closest to the grill and it took care of most of it. I suspect they removed the battery hold down for their R&D but I was not comfortable running an off road vehicle with the battery bouncing around. Overall I like the product though and don’t regret buying it.

 

[Lifeliberty]

Bought 2 Hella 500 Halogen driving lights, 55W each. So 110 total. Would 10A auxiliary be enough or use relay?

Thinking of this relay kit https://a.co/d/bYnaTZl

Do I need to worry about relay capacity/size?

Any advice on which wire to power from the switch? Red?

If I bought Led lights I'd just wire to auxiliary without asking, but since they are Halogen thought id reach out

 

[Figmo]

Bought 2 Hella 500 Halogen driving lights, 55W each. So 110 total. Would 10A auxiliary be enough or use relay?

Thinking of this relay kit https://a.co/d/bYnaTZl

Do I need to worry about relay capacity/size?

I’d relay it.

You’re right on the edge so, while technically 10A should be enough, remember that devices will often surge a higher current draw when you initially power them up. Not to mention, there is no way to predict how much current the device will draw as it ages and the electronics and connections degrade.

That relay kit you linked to should be more than sufficient for this use.

 

[BigHoof]

I would use a relay. You are at about the max of 10 amps with the 2 lights. Relay is cheap and easy to do.

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