B&O Sub Swap without adding amp?

[Westbayou]

So far I've swapped every speaker out in my 2022 B&O stereo for Kicker CS series speakers except for the sub, and all of them made a dramatic improvement. I'm not quite ready to drop the cash on an amp and sub, but if I get some improvement by swapping only the sub out and driving it from the B&O amp, I figure why not.

Has anyone just swapped the sub out without adding an amp, and did you get any improvement? If so what sub did you use?

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[SillyPosition]

Cant help you, but could you share the pieces and costs for the upgrades you already made?

And to clarify, it required no other replacement of any sort, same mounts, same amp and sub?

 

[Hossfire]

So far I've swapped every speaker out in my 2022 B&O stereo for Kicker CS series speakers except for the sub, and all of them made a dramatic improvement. I'm not quite ready to drop the cash on an amp and sub, but if I get some improvement by swapping only the sub out and driving it from the B&O amp, I figure why not.

Has anyone just swapped the sub out without adding an amp, and did you get any improvement? If so what sub did you use?

The market really doesn't support the solution (simple speaker swap) that you are looking for. The space behind the trim panel is small and the factory amp's sub channel (RMS is not known) is pretty weak. The B&O woofer (in order to play loud enough) sacrifices deep bass. It uses a neodymium magnet to get the most sound possible out of the factory amp.

The market's solution is to combine a less efficient, deeper playing sub with a more powerful aftermarket amp.

 

[JackTripper]

So far I've swapped every speaker out in my 2022 B&O stereo for Kicker CS series speakers except for the sub, and all of them made a dramatic improvement. I'm not quite ready to drop the cash on an amp and sub, but if I get some improvement by swapping only the sub out and driving it from the B&O amp, I figure why not.

Has anyone just swapped the sub out without adding an amp, and did you get any improvement? If so what sub did you use?

Were your speakers just a direct replacement? Did you have to do anything else like bass blockers, etc.? I’m looking for a plug and play solution. Remove the stock speakers and just replace them directly with new ones.

 

[rguest3]

So far I've swapped every speaker out in my 2022 B&O stereo for Kicker CS series speakers except for the sub, and all of them made a dramatic improvement. I'm not quite ready to drop the cash on an amp and sub, but if I get some improvement by swapping only the sub out and driving it from the B&O amp, I figure why not.

Has anyone just swapped the sub out without adding an amp, and did you get any improvement? If so what sub did you use?

I have done similar as you so far.

I replaced the Factory B&O Speakers with the Kicker KSC series speakers front and rear in my 2-door. I have also installed the Kicker 48CWRT82 8" Subwoofer in the factory Sub Box. I am getting additional Bass response compared to stock, but I will add an AudioControl ACM-1.300 Amp to drive it.

I ordered the Kicker KSC speakers from Crutchfield and went with the recommended speakers for the Bronco. They included wire adaptors and Kick panel speaker adaptors as well. Complete drop in, easy replacement.

The B&O system is about 20-25 per watts per channel depending on who you talk to.

I will add the AudioControl ACM-4.300 for the other speakers at some point and an Axxess Matrix with DSP for a Plug-n-play system. (removing the Factory Amp Pictured)

 

[rwyatt85]

I just swapped the factory sub on mine this weekend (B&O -> Polk 8" MM1 DVC).
The Sub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWTS1T
The wiring plug-n-play adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTEVM
^Note that for the bronco the black and white wires of the adapter are effectively reversed - so ignore them and focus on what's (+) and (-) based on the factory wiring.

Simple process in my case because (A) the sub cleared the mounting depth of the factory enclosure without a spacer ring and (B) the sub fit snugly within the outer cavity without having to dremel out any surrounding material. The only permanent modification was running the new screws in all around, but that wouldn't keep me from restoring the factory configuration later.

The results were about what I expected. I lost a bit of low-bass "boominess/fill" but gained low-bass "cleanliness/punch". The low bass is less present, but i can no longer hear the audible oscilation-effect of the cheap factory sub.

I was waiting to see how this worked out to decide whether i wanted to add a tailgate 12" sub enclosure as well and now I think that I will, but I feel no rush to do so.

For what it's worth, I also replaced the front stage with Polk MM1 components and had no fitment issues there either with the help of the kit from "Sounds Good Stereo". Crutchfield says the MM1 doesn't fit. Dirty lies! I did have to sneak some L-pads into the dash speaker cavity to tame the tweeters though.

 

[James Cole]

Hello guys,

How are you still liking these drop in sub replacements?

Also was the OEM sub 2 or 4 ohm dvc?

Thanks
JC

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