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This is not going to be a complete walk through as that has been covered. I just want to post the things I could not find online.
Like others I was not happy with the B&O system, especially when driving with my top off. I had already replaced all of my speakers, upgrading both pods and kickers to 6.75. The sound was better, but I wanted more volume. I bought the B&O #17 kit from joe @plugnplaykits. This comes with AmpPro4 DSP, Musway eight100 amplifier, and 8ich kicker sub.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...with-b-o-premium-sound?variant=43072106528958
I also purchased the Stinger BRCOAMPBRKTD Amp Bracket, 12 ft 6-channel RCA Cables, 100 feet of 16-guage speaker wire(used about half), some 8 gauge Copper Wire, InstallGear 8 Gauge AWG 1ft Power Wire with 60 Amp AGU Fuse Holder, 8 AWG 3/8" Stud Copper Wire Lug, Kilmat 80 mil 36AGFT(used about half), and some of the Trim Panel Retainer Clips. also got some double sided tape, cloth tape, and polyfil stuffing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV3CWQN4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBFQJ9DG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZZZK5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SF649BQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFPNZ5M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
With this kit you no longer use the factory amp, you also do not use the factory sub wiring. So I took those out and tossed them in the trash. But we do use the factory sub enclosure. Like others I did sound proof the back of the Bronco and the Sub enclosure.
Sub - The 8 inch kicker did not fit like I was informed it would, so I took off the plastic ring that goes around the out side of the sub. Not sure why I did that way, I thought I was told to, or I read it in another thread. But it worked, could have modified the sub housing. Cut out the old wiring and harness attached to the sub housing, drilled a new hole through the rubber gromet on the back and ran new speaker wire through it.
Now I will start to sound like a audio noob. The kicker sub has 4 connectors on it, I jumped one of the positives with the negative on the opposite side. than only ran 1 positive and 1 negative speaker wire out to the AMP. I will talk more about how I wired the amp later.
AmpPro4 - This comes with a few harness. I only used the APHFD31HAR that connects to the 3 vehicle connections removed from the stock harness and also has the speaker wires that are used to come back in from the amp. Also used the APH-FD03 this is inserted under the radio as a bypass to get the rear pods to work. since the Pods and center channel do not go through the amp. With this set up, you loose the center channel speaker, but must leave something plugged in our add something( Again Audio noob). Joe @plugnplaykits had already bundled up the cables not need and added extra stereo wire so the cables could make it from the stereo all the way to the back, I ended up mounting under the seat, so had to cut a lot of extra off. I made a bracket out 1/4 inch ABS Plastic sheet, cut it to fit where the stock amp was on the sub housing, mounted the AmpPro'4 with double sided tape and some zip ties. Then ran the 6 channel RCA cables from the AmpPro4 to the Musway Amp.
from the AmpPro4 - To the Musway Amp
1&2 - 1&2
3&4 - 5&6
5&6 - 7&8
4 &5 on the amp are not used.
Its noted on the AmpPro manual that the power and ground cables on the amplifier should be connected before plugging in the RCA Cables.
Musway Amp - I could not find a place to mount this in the back under the panels so I ended up putting it under the drivers seat, using the Stinger BRCOAMPBRKTD Amp Bracket ( There is a good video ). Before removing the drivers seat they suggest you disconnect the battery cable. Then using the 8 gauge copper wire, I made both my 12V to the battery and my ground wire. I attached the ground wire to a torx screw on the wall just a few inches back between the front and back doors. I ran the 12v under the dash and through a gromet in the fire wall, attached it to the InstallGear 8 Gauge AWG 1ft Power Wire with 60 Amp AGU Fuse Holder and then to one of the spare terminals on the battery. I did have to run to the hardware store and purchase a M6 Falange nut. As stated above, you will need to plug in the RCA cable attachments on the INPUT side for channels 1 - 8, and the high level speaker output attachments for channels 1-8.
I bundled up all my in RCA and Out speaker wire cables on the outside by the drivers door, but be careful, when you put the drivers seat back in, they could get caught under the chair leg, and could get damaged. Especially with my fat ass. EDIT - After I got everything back together and went on a drive everything stopped working. I ended up moving the RCA cables the best I could to be on the other side by the heat vent. this also helped with putting the seat back in, the back left foot really needs to be almost right against the amp to fit.
The good news is you do not have to loose the heat/cooling vent that is also under the seat.
Musway Amp to AmpPro4
1&2 - 3&4
3&4 - 1&2
Then 5&6 go to the speaker wires for the pods that come from the APH-FD03 located under the stereo.
Last 7&8 go to the speaker wires for the Sub. The Positive on 7 goes to the positive from the sub and the Negative for 8 goes to the Negative from the Sub. The other 2 wires from 7&8 are not used.
For real the last thing, is you need to make a 1 sided wire for the turn on signal and run it to the AmpPro4 turn on signal wire.
Musway Amp settings - Big Thanks to Joseph Norton at Musway in the tech department for helping me with the all of the amp settings.
From the side where the 12V is, set the Auto Turn on to DC
Setting on the opposite side
both input lvl 1-4 and 5-8 need to be on Low
Input from ch 3/4 should be pushed in so they are CH 1/2
Input CH 7/8 should pushed in, so they are CH 5/6 - Joe told me the to leave it out for 7/8 but I thought it sounded better as 5/6
The rest of the settings may differ for each listener, but below is a good starting point and what I ended up using.
Ch1/CH 2 settings
Input Sens - I only went about 10% as when I turned the system up to above 20 I was getting some feed back.
Cross over to HP
High Pass about 25%
Ch3/Ch4 Settings
Input Sens to about 30%
Crossover to HP
High Pass to about 30%
Low pass to about 70%
Ch5/Ch6 Settings
Input Sens to about 30%
Crossover to HP
High Pass to about 60%
Ch7/Ch8 Settings
Input Sens to about 30-35%
Crossover to LP/BP
High Pass to 0 all the way to the left.
Low Pass to about 65-70%
Putting everything back together. The AmpPro comes with a base knob that is also used for the volume level of your chimes, Bluetooth, etc. I did not want to run it all the way to the front of the vehicle, so I mounted it to the side panel in the back right next to the light and AUX Power outlet.
Also as I may have mentioned above, I did break about 5 of the white and black trim panel clips, so check to make sure you replace them from 1 or both sides if broken. I did not break any of the orange clips, but I did loose one lol.
I hope this helps, and some, but not many pictures to come as soon as I figure out how to add them on my phone.
EDIT - As mentioned it I lost sound while going for my first outing. A drive on a pretty cold morning with no top and blasting heat on high. tried to trouble shoot it in the Costco parking lot and it looked like it had power and the status light was red. After getting home and taking the seat out and messing with the cables I noticed it had no power. Pulled out the multimeter and was not getting power to the 12V. Popped the hood and there was power before the fuse, but not after. Opened up the fuse and it was not blown. Put it back in and WAMO I had it turned up a bit loud, it started working. I made sure to tighten all the connections on the fuse. So basically not sure what caused it, the fuse, the heat, the cables being caught under the seat. Cross my fingers it does not happen again.
Edit- it happened again. It was the fuse it appears to be built poorly. Prob over paid, buy went to car toys and bought a fuse made by Stinger.
Thanks,
Mike Eades
Like others I was not happy with the B&O system, especially when driving with my top off. I had already replaced all of my speakers, upgrading both pods and kickers to 6.75. The sound was better, but I wanted more volume. I bought the B&O #17 kit from joe @plugnplaykits. This comes with AmpPro4 DSP, Musway eight100 amplifier, and 8ich kicker sub.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...with-b-o-premium-sound?variant=43072106528958
I also purchased the Stinger BRCOAMPBRKTD Amp Bracket, 12 ft 6-channel RCA Cables, 100 feet of 16-guage speaker wire(used about half), some 8 gauge Copper Wire, InstallGear 8 Gauge AWG 1ft Power Wire with 60 Amp AGU Fuse Holder, 8 AWG 3/8" Stud Copper Wire Lug, Kilmat 80 mil 36AGFT(used about half), and some of the Trim Panel Retainer Clips. also got some double sided tape, cloth tape, and polyfil stuffing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV3CWQN4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBFQJ9DG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZZZK5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SF649BQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFPNZ5M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
With this kit you no longer use the factory amp, you also do not use the factory sub wiring. So I took those out and tossed them in the trash. But we do use the factory sub enclosure. Like others I did sound proof the back of the Bronco and the Sub enclosure.
Sub - The 8 inch kicker did not fit like I was informed it would, so I took off the plastic ring that goes around the out side of the sub. Not sure why I did that way, I thought I was told to, or I read it in another thread. But it worked, could have modified the sub housing. Cut out the old wiring and harness attached to the sub housing, drilled a new hole through the rubber gromet on the back and ran new speaker wire through it.
Now I will start to sound like a audio noob. The kicker sub has 4 connectors on it, I jumped one of the positives with the negative on the opposite side. than only ran 1 positive and 1 negative speaker wire out to the AMP. I will talk more about how I wired the amp later.
AmpPro4 - This comes with a few harness. I only used the APHFD31HAR that connects to the 3 vehicle connections removed from the stock harness and also has the speaker wires that are used to come back in from the amp. Also used the APH-FD03 this is inserted under the radio as a bypass to get the rear pods to work. since the Pods and center channel do not go through the amp. With this set up, you loose the center channel speaker, but must leave something plugged in our add something( Again Audio noob). Joe @plugnplaykits had already bundled up the cables not need and added extra stereo wire so the cables could make it from the stereo all the way to the back, I ended up mounting under the seat, so had to cut a lot of extra off. I made a bracket out 1/4 inch ABS Plastic sheet, cut it to fit where the stock amp was on the sub housing, mounted the AmpPro'4 with double sided tape and some zip ties. Then ran the 6 channel RCA cables from the AmpPro4 to the Musway Amp.
from the AmpPro4 - To the Musway Amp
1&2 - 1&2
3&4 - 5&6
5&6 - 7&8
4 &5 on the amp are not used.
Its noted on the AmpPro manual that the power and ground cables on the amplifier should be connected before plugging in the RCA Cables.
Musway Amp - I could not find a place to mount this in the back under the panels so I ended up putting it under the drivers seat, using the Stinger BRCOAMPBRKTD Amp Bracket ( There is a good video ). Before removing the drivers seat they suggest you disconnect the battery cable. Then using the 8 gauge copper wire, I made both my 12V to the battery and my ground wire. I attached the ground wire to a torx screw on the wall just a few inches back between the front and back doors. I ran the 12v under the dash and through a gromet in the fire wall, attached it to the InstallGear 8 Gauge AWG 1ft Power Wire with 60 Amp AGU Fuse Holder and then to one of the spare terminals on the battery. I did have to run to the hardware store and purchase a M6 Falange nut. As stated above, you will need to plug in the RCA cable attachments on the INPUT side for channels 1 - 8, and the high level speaker output attachments for channels 1-8.
I bundled up all my in RCA and Out speaker wire cables on the outside by the drivers door, but be careful, when you put the drivers seat back in, they could get caught under the chair leg, and could get damaged. Especially with my fat ass. EDIT - After I got everything back together and went on a drive everything stopped working. I ended up moving the RCA cables the best I could to be on the other side by the heat vent. this also helped with putting the seat back in, the back left foot really needs to be almost right against the amp to fit.
The good news is you do not have to loose the heat/cooling vent that is also under the seat.
Musway Amp to AmpPro4
1&2 - 3&4
3&4 - 1&2
Then 5&6 go to the speaker wires for the pods that come from the APH-FD03 located under the stereo.
Last 7&8 go to the speaker wires for the Sub. The Positive on 7 goes to the positive from the sub and the Negative for 8 goes to the Negative from the Sub. The other 2 wires from 7&8 are not used.
For real the last thing, is you need to make a 1 sided wire for the turn on signal and run it to the AmpPro4 turn on signal wire.
Musway Amp settings - Big Thanks to Joseph Norton at Musway in the tech department for helping me with the all of the amp settings.
From the side where the 12V is, set the Auto Turn on to DC
Setting on the opposite side
both input lvl 1-4 and 5-8 need to be on Low
Input from ch 3/4 should be pushed in so they are CH 1/2
Input CH 7/8 should pushed in, so they are CH 5/6 - Joe told me the to leave it out for 7/8 but I thought it sounded better as 5/6
The rest of the settings may differ for each listener, but below is a good starting point and what I ended up using.
Ch1/CH 2 settings
Input Sens - I only went about 10% as when I turned the system up to above 20 I was getting some feed back.
Cross over to HP
High Pass about 25%
Ch3/Ch4 Settings
Input Sens to about 30%
Crossover to HP
High Pass to about 30%
Low pass to about 70%
Ch5/Ch6 Settings
Input Sens to about 30%
Crossover to HP
High Pass to about 60%
Ch7/Ch8 Settings
Input Sens to about 30-35%
Crossover to LP/BP
High Pass to 0 all the way to the left.
Low Pass to about 65-70%
Putting everything back together. The AmpPro comes with a base knob that is also used for the volume level of your chimes, Bluetooth, etc. I did not want to run it all the way to the front of the vehicle, so I mounted it to the side panel in the back right next to the light and AUX Power outlet.
Also as I may have mentioned above, I did break about 5 of the white and black trim panel clips, so check to make sure you replace them from 1 or both sides if broken. I did not break any of the orange clips, but I did loose one lol.
I hope this helps, and some, but not many pictures to come as soon as I figure out how to add them on my phone.
EDIT - As mentioned it I lost sound while going for my first outing. A drive on a pretty cold morning with no top and blasting heat on high. tried to trouble shoot it in the Costco parking lot and it looked like it had power and the status light was red. After getting home and taking the seat out and messing with the cables I noticed it had no power. Pulled out the multimeter and was not getting power to the 12V. Popped the hood and there was power before the fuse, but not after. Opened up the fuse and it was not blown. Put it back in and WAMO I had it turned up a bit loud, it started working. I made sure to tighten all the connections on the fuse. So basically not sure what caused it, the fuse, the heat, the cables being caught under the seat. Cross my fingers it does not happen again.
Edit- it happened again. It was the fuse it appears to be built poorly. Prob over paid, buy went to car toys and bought a fuse made by Stinger.
Thanks,
Mike Eades
Sponsored
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