Blow off valve phhh sound

[Jmax]

I like the sound but I am completely uneducated on this topic. I have started my research and see 3 options to accomplish this. 1) Panda motors suggested a $5 cap and simply disconnecting the recirculating hose and cap recirculating intake port. 2) Lethal performance suggested a turbosmart duel port valve that recirculates 50% for $250. This appears to replace the OEM closed valve with an “upgraded” 50/50 valve and appears to have the blow off adaptor incorporated in the valve. 3) boomba blow off adaptor here which appears to be a blow off adaptor/spacer put between the oem valve and port, but I don’t see if it is 50/50 or what it is…
Can someone enlighten me? I have also seen that panda did the $5 cap and added the turbosmart duel blow off valve. Are there benefits to doing one vs another, both (does it make it even louder or any benefits to both), any drawbacks (gas mileage, harm engine), etc. Again I’m ignorant on this and would love real mechanical advise, don’t need the “sound” critics out there. Our beautiful big beasts are a bit of a joke as it is with the price tag and gas mileage, etc… may as well pile on the ridiculousness!

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[GToddC5]

I bought the Boomba, and like it. A little bit more elegant install than the Panda kit, IMHO.

Edit to add: This is my first turbo on any vehicle, and I just wanted to get the sound out of my system, so I don't care about the haters either. I can have no sound driving casually and getting close to 20 MPG daily commute, or I can mix in some fun and pssshh away with 18.5 MPG daily commute. I also have a Sprint Booster, so full idiot mode gets me 15.5 MPG daily commute. It's all about how heavy your foot is.

 

[Ground_zero298]

I have the 50/50. Will not mess with mileage as we don’t generate boost when cruising. Easy install. Build quality seems way better than stock. The 100% atmosphere dump will be louder than the 50/50. Personally I think the 50/50 sounds just about right. Plus if they designed it with air going back into the system I figured the 50/50 was the best application.

 

[Jmax]

I bought the Boomba, and like it. A little bit more elegant install than the Panda kit, IMHO.

Edit to add: This is my first turbo on any vehicle, and I just wanted to get the sound out of my system, so I don't care about the haters either. I can have no sound driving casually and getting close to 20 MPG daily commute, or I can mix in some fun and pssshh away with 18.5 MPG daily commute. I also have a Sprint Booster, so full idiot mode gets me 15.5 MPG daily commute. It's all about how heavy your foot is.

I’m jealous, I started at 13.4 and have slowly worked my way up to 14.6 in my badsas… oh and I am not heavy footed at those MPG… different story of frustration!!!

 

[GToddC5]

I’m jealous, I started at 13.4 and have slowly worked my way up to 14.6 in my badsas… oh and I am not heavy footed at those MPG… different story of frustration!!!

I might be joining you soon, because I'm shopping for wheels and 35s for my 7MT Badlands! It doesn't really bother me, because my work commute is 16 miles per day.

Edit to add: @Jmax I'm in a pay it forward kinda mood, so DM me your address and I'll send you the Panda kit for free. It's just sitting here new in the box not getting used.

 

[@BadBlueBronco]

I have been wondering the same thing. Why by a 100$ adapter to vent to atmosphere when you can just buy a 5$ cap and a zip tie?

 

[Vinny6G]

I just pulled the hose off and capped it with a cap from amazon. No difference in mileage. Just sound.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I used a rubber cap and hose clamp. The system was designed for egr purposes IMHO. I think hot air going back into the intake tract is super dumb, and it also likely cause spikes in boost pressure in the intake tract since the throttle plate is usually
closed when it occurs, even dumber... (which can spike fuel pressure momentarily as well.)

Additionally the OEM air is directed pretty much only to one side and in a way that interupts air flow... super Dumb.

 

[Octavian7896]

I have the turbosmart and I am very pleased with it. I paired it with the panda power module and my turbo response is very good. I like the turbosmart as it reduces kickback strain on the turbo fans when the gates close. Worth the investment.

 

[Jmax]

I might be joining you soon, because I'm shopping for wheels and 35s for my 7MT Badlands! It doesn't really bother me, because my work commute is 16 miles per day.

Edit to add: @Jmax I'm in a pay it forward kinda mood, so DM me your address and I'll send you the Panda kit for free. It's just sitting here new in the box not getting used.

Thanks man, much appreciated but I already bought the rubber caps… thanks though. Can’t wait to try it out, it’s in the shop because of the a piller issue. Sealing it so it won’t drain into the cab.

 

[TantoIndian]

I definitely need to look into this. I cant wait to install one.

 

[JonathanDuong]

I like the sound but I am completely uneducated on this topic. I have started my research and see 3 options to accomplish this. 1) Panda motors suggested a $5 cap and simply disconnecting the recirculating hose and cap recirculating intake port. 2) Lethal performance suggested a turbosmart duel port valve that recirculates 50% for $250. This appears to replace the OEM closed valve with an “upgraded” 50/50 valve and appears to have the blow off adaptor incorporated in the valve. 3) boomba blow off adaptor here which appears to be a blow off adaptor/spacer put between the oem valve and port, but I don’t see if it is 50/50 or what it is…
Can someone enlighten me? I have also seen that panda did the $5 cap and added the turbosmart duel blow off valve. Are there benefits to doing one vs another, both (does it make it even louder or any benefits to both), any drawbacks (gas mileage, harm engine), etc. Again I’m ignorant on this and would love real mechanical advise, don’t need the “sound” critics out there. Our beautiful big beasts are a bit of a joke as it is with the price tag and gas mileage, etc… may as well pile on the ridiculousness!

Careful as any check engine light or whatever may lead to a curious technician to run history reports. Little sound is not worth the chance of voiding warranty.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Careful as any check engine light or whatever may lead to a curious technician to run history reports. Little sound is not worth the chance of voiding warranty.

Seriously? Why another post about the warranty? The factory warranty is very short. I didn't buy the truck to follow some rulebook, or be held back in building my dream truck by some castrated warranty concerns. When I see these warranty posts, my blood boils, it's like these folks feel entitled to have every single thing on their Bronco be covered by Ford like their Amazon package that wasn't up to snuff. (They return it expecting a full refund and paid shipping, same mentality here with the warranty idiots.) Many many of us here don't consider the warranty a reason to make a decision on an aftermarket upgrade or customized rig. When I bought the Bronco I didn't even look to see what the factory warranty was! Because I don't care, I mean that was NOT a factor in the purchase. I did spend the extra bucks for an extended warranty, but don't really see myself ever using it unless the valve drops or trans fails.

Worried folks should read up on warranty repair lawsuits and repair refusals...long story short, the burden to show proof of reason to deny repairs is on the warranty claim reps shoulders. It's not like any modification nor customized doodads automaticly voids your warranty! Each case is different and they have to PROVE that the bad part caused the issue to deny claim, a suggestion or opinion is NOT good enough.

 

[Techun]

we don’t generate boost when cruising.

I think many trims do

 

[Jmax]

Seriously? Why another post about the warranty? The factory warranty is very short. I didn't buy the truck to follow some rulebook, or be held back in building my dream truck by some castrated warranty concerns. When I see these warranty posts, my blood boils, it's like these folks feel entitled to have every single thing on their Bronco be covered by Ford like their Amazon package that wasn't up to snuff. (They return it expecting a full refund and paid shipping, same mentality here with the warranty idiots.) Many many of us here don't consider the warranty a reason to make a decision on an aftermarket upgrade or customized rig. When I bought the Bronco I didn't even look to see what the factory warranty was! Because I don't care, I mean that was NOT a factor in the purchase. I did spend the extra bucks for an extended warranty, but don't really see myself ever using it unless the valve drops or trans fails.

Worried folks should read up on warranty repair lawsuits and repair refusals...long story short, the burden to show proof of reason to deny repairs is on the warranty claim reps shoulders. It's not like any modification nor customized doodads automaticly voids your warranty! Each case is different and they have to PROVE that the bad part caused the issue to deny claim, a suggestion or opinion is NOT good enough.

agree, I just want to know from folks that are more educated than I what the actual mechanical impact is and what the difference is between the options which range 5-100-250… speculation on warranty doesn’t need to be repeated.
Actual info for on vehicle impact would be appreciated. I understand: could impact warranty, make pshhh sound, etc but what is the actual impact. In none, then that’s the answer

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