FIRST LOOK: Flush Style LED Tail Lights for the 2021+ Ford Bronco from ORACLE Lighting

[Beach_Bum]

@broadicustomworks Take note of the above settings as you will need that info when you find the time to installing yours.

@broncorik Can you provide details on the rubber stops that you used? I don't want to venture down the path of gluing washers together like others have earlier in the thread. If you can specify the diameter and length that you trimmed it to that would be appreciated.

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[broncorik]

Left rear stop and position light usage = stop and turn
Right rear stop and position light usage = stop and turn
Left turn lamp usage = not used
Right turn lamp usage = not used
Rear LED turn outage = disabled

Thanks! Do you know get your running light as a separate bulb or does the Oracle assembly just use one bulb for all the stop/turn/tail functions at one level of brightness? I'm trying to wrap my head around if the solution that you found parallels the intended function of the design of the Oracle light or if it's a workaround. Either way, because there's a lot of people with a signature lighting, Oracle should release some kind of a statement/instructions.

 

[DCtoobs42]

@broadicustomworks Take note of the above settings as you will need that info when you find the time to installing yours.

@broncorik Can you provide details on the rubber stops that you used? I don't want to venture down the path of gluing washers together like others have earlier in the thread. If you can specify the diameter and length that you trimmed it to that would be appreciated.

There's a great website for very specific hardware. www.mcmaster.com

Everything ships next day but the challenge is that its not cheap and sometimes you may need to order a pack of 20 for one items. That said, there are detailed cad drawings of every part they offer and they have a ton of different categories of fasteners, rigging, measuring tools, and other fun industrial bits and bobs. Check it out if you find yourself in need of something VERY specific.

 

[frttn36]

Thanks! Do you know get your running light as a separate bulb or does the Oracle assembly just use one bulb for all the stop/turn/tail functions at one level of brightness? I'm trying to wrap my head around if the solution that you found parallels the intended function of the design of the Oracle light or if it's a workaround. Either way, because there's a lot of people with a signature lighting, Oracle should release some kind of a statement/instructions.

As far as I can tell it is all one bulb at different intensities. I’m with you though about intended function whether or not that’s how it’s supposed to work. I followed the YouTube video for install and did the ForScan as presented but it didn’t work. I just decided on my own to try the way I posted and I got all of the functions needed to work like a normal tail light should work. No one has honked at me or followed me to tell me they aren’t working like they are supposed to lol.

 

[broncorik]

@broadicustomworks Take note of the above settings as you will need that info when you find the time to installing yours.

@broncorik Can you provide details on the rubber stops that you used? I don't want to venture down the path of gluing washers together like others have earlier in the thread. If you can specify the diameter and length that you trimmed it to that would be appreciated.

For the rubber stop I went to my O'Reilly's-bought tray of various rubber bumpers and found that one in particular is literally a perfect fit with minimal trimming. You will need an exacto-type blade, however to make it work. When finished, you can use the same exact bump stop for both the top and bottom of the driver side. Although the top bolt is a little shorter than it could be, you will still get enough engagement of the threads using the more robust rubber stop with no risk of the bolt backing out. I imagine that the folks who use just the tubing that number one it's going to be tough to get the light aligned with the body panels and number two that eventually the bolt is going to shake its way out. Here is a pic of the part:

And here is the part before trimming:

And after:

You then put big hole towards the light (it fits snugly over the convex part of the plastic frame) and the bolt goes through the light frame, through the spacer, and then the smaller hole holds the bolt in place (if you cut the hole small enough for a slight interference fit) for you to manuever the light into place. Then when you put enough pressure on the light to line it up with the top body panel, you get enough compression on the spacer to get thread engagement and good alignment.

 

[broncorik]

For the rubber stop I went to my O'Reilly's-bought tray of various rubber bumpers and found that one in particular is literally a perfect fit with minimal trimming. You will need an exacto-type blade, however to make it work. When finished, you can use the same exact bump stop for both the top and bottom of the driver side. Although the top bolt is a little shorter than it could be, you will still get enough engagement of the threads using the more robust rubber stop with no risk of the bolt backing out. I imagine that the folks who use just the tubing that number one it's going to be tough to get the light aligned with the body panels and number two that eventually the bolt is going to shake its way out. Here is a pic of the part:

And here is the part before trimming:

And after:

You then put big hole towards the light (it fits snugly over the convex part of the plastic frame) and the bolt goes through the light frame, through the spacer, and then the smaller hole holds the bolt in place (if you cut the hole small enough for a slight interference fit) for you to manuever the light into place. Then when you put enough pressure on the light to line it up with the top body panel, you get enough compression on the spacer to get thread engagement and good alignment.

Here is the Dorman cross number:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-26134-45622.aspx

 

[broncorik]

Left rear stop and position light usage = stop and turn
Right rear stop and position light usage = stop and turn
Left turn lamp usage = not used
Right turn lamp usage = not used
Rear LED turn outage = disabled

That worked! I got DTC code for turning off the LED outage, but no CEL. You?

 

[frttn36]

That worked! I got DTC code for turning off the LED outage, but no CEL. You?

I got exactly the same results. I’m glad it worked for you!

 

[‘21OBX]

Thanks! I will try that...what about the other 3 settings?

I found the same thing followed instructions and no brake or turn. The not used setting is wrong. The other settings worked fine. That I can tell.

 

[‘21OBX]

These look even better in person! These are what we should have for from ford. I’ve got some more fitting to do on the drivers side but it’s self inflicted from when I installed the tailgate support and the gate shifted.

 

[broncorik]

I got exactly the same results. I’m glad it worked for you!

I'm glad you cracked the code! Was it trial and error?

 

[frttn36]

I'm glad you cracked the code! Was it trial and error?

It was. I’m not sure what made me try it, I just wasn’t prepared to give up lol. I guess it made sense that the stop and position light could work and worth a try.

I’m going to have to try your mounting fix. I just used regular metal washers to build it out enough. I would much rather have the rubber mounts.

 

[Headsong]

I'm really not inclined to take it all apart again, but what confuses me is that in order to get the trim piece flush requires more bushing, but then you can't seat the bolt.... The bolt length seems to be the limiter.

 

[broncorik]

I'm really not inclined to take it all apart again, but what confuses me is that in order to get the trim piece flush requires more bushing, but then you can't seat the bolt.... The bolt length seems to be the limiter.

I initially thought that but the problem I had with that flimsy rubber tubing was that I thought I would get it to the right height adjustment but then that tubing would collapse...and the light would be drawn in. The bushing that I modified is much more firm, and so the light stays where it needs to throughout and then as you draw the bushing down you can feel it get plenty of threads for engagement. It is possible that manufacturing variances in both our Broncos and the Oracle lights could mean that yours does need a longer bolt, but I don't think the variances would be that great. After reading what others had said including yourself I was tempted to run out and buy longer bolts but then when I searched around the garage and found that the bushing fit the bill perfectly I was pleased that I didn't have to. It also became apparent that rather than taking everything apart all you really need to pull off is that vertical strip and from there you could easily swap the bolts out in the bushings without taking apart the other side. I also did it kind of backwards and there is that one 10 mil bolt that's just above the bumper and I ended up pulling that out and then taking out the entire trim piece rather than pulling off the painted piece from that.

 

[Headsong]

I initially thought that but the problem I had with that flimsy rubber tubing was that I thought I would get it to the right height adjustment but then that tubing would collapse...and the light would be drawn in. The bushing that I modified is much more firm, and so the light stays where it needs to throughout and then as you draw the bushing down you can feel it get plenty of threads for engagement. It is possible that manufacturing variances in both our Broncos and the Oracle lights could mean that yours does need a longer bolt, but I don't think the variances would be that great. After reading what others had said including yourself I was tempted to run out and buy longer bolts but then when I searched around the garage and found that the bushing fit the bill perfectly I was pleased that I didn't have to. It also became apparent that rather than taking everything apart all you really need to pull off is that vertical strip and from there you could easily swap the bolts out in the bushings without taking apart the other side. I also did it kind of backwards and there is that one 10 mil bolt that's just above the bumper and I ended up pulling that out and then taking out the entire trim piece rather than pulling off the painted piece from that.

You encourage me to try! Lol

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