Heli - where did you order your 2nd pulley since you have the winch wall mounted like I do? Looks like only 1 pully in the kit..
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You are right to be cautious. I am too. Overly so. Massive OCD so I think through a lot and would be horrible if top seperated. . I understand your concern but I’m not sure the physics support it..I could be wrong..My concern was from the photos of people lifting from just the two rear slits and there being a noticeable widening of the gap at those points. Straps going underneath spread the load out more evenly IMO.
Ideally it would be best to support from the bottom after lifting but maybe I'm just overly cautious with the MIC top and all the issues it has had.
Going underneath means back window open, I have a low ceiling and I am concerned about that. I also wonder about a strap compressing the rubber window seals. I live in an area gets that gets plenty of weather, just looking to be able to get the top on and off, by myself, easily for a day or two at a time. TLP would be nice, but its a $$$ thing, what other mods could I do with that moneyMy concern was from the photos of people lifting from just the two rear slits and there being a noticeable widening of the gap at those points. Straps going underneath spread the load out more evenly IMO.
Ideally it would be best to support from the bottom after lifting but maybe I'm just overly cautious with the MIC top and all the issues it has had.
My garage is 24' long so I lift the top off then have enough rope to lower it to the floor and still park in front of it. My plan is to have a shelf of sorts that folds up against the back wall that it will lower on to when I am running topless. I also made sure the ropes were suspended a bit wider than the top front to back so that they angled away from the rubber seals when lifting. The ropes should never put any pressure on the seals if rigged correctly.Going underneath means back window open, I have a low ceiling and I am concerned about that. I also wonder about a strap compressing the rubber window seals. I live in an area gets that gets plenty of weather, just looking to be able to get the top on and off, by myself, easily for a day or two at a time. TLP would be nice, but its a $$$ thing, what other mods could I do with that money![]()
Nearly 2 years hanging mine. No issues with the Lange hoist. Takes me less than 10 minutes to remove or install using my electric ratchet .![]()
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I’m curious what lengths you used for your length of cable with the Crosby clamps. IE how long is each Crosby clamp section in totalCut 2x4’s and screwed them into the ceiling joists. The winch plate is mounted into the wall studs. With the exception of this additional pulley, all items used to mount came with the Lange Hoist. I picked this pulley up at Lowe’s. View attachment 645117 View attachment 645117
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I spaced them a little over an inch apart. That way I had plenty of time to detect any slippage in the cable. This is what i meant when I told you the Crosby clamps would dictate your overall clearance. IE…how far apart do you want to space them. When I worked power line construction, many moons ago, we would use Crosby clamps to pull high tension wires. Because of that experience, I was confident in their ability to hold.I’m curious what lengths you used for your length of cable with the Crosby clamps. IE how long is each Crosby clamp section in total
Yes and I left about an inch long tail through the final clamp. Now you see why your clearance is roughly 12 inches with pulleys, eye bolts, and clamps in place.So that mean the total length of cable that is looped around the eye bolts with the Crosby clamps is then about 6ish inches (1.5 before the first clamp 1.5 after that then 1.5 after that = ~6inche
Yep. My challenge is I need to be at EXACTLY 1 foot or less or I’m screwed.Yes and I left about an inch long tail through the final clamp. Now you see why your clearance is roughly 12 inches with pulleys, eye bolts, and clamps in place.
Don’t think it matters, but I also believe I alternated one on each strand.Yep. My challenge is I need to be at EXACTLY 1 foot or less or I’m screwed.
PS - Instructions say to install the Crosby clamps with the nut side facing the longer length of cable. Yours look different. Does it matter?
Do you need to drive completely under your top, like pass all the way underneath it? Because, technically, you only need to lift the top a few inches in order so drive out from underneath it. Then, it only needs to be high enough to park your front end underneath it. I literally drive in until the top almost touches my windshield frame and stop. I raise mine as high as I do to give me the option of backing underneath it without worrying about the roll bar making contact with the top as I approach. But it’s not required to be that high by any means.Yep. My challenge is I need to be at EXACTLY 1 foot or less or I’m screwed.
PS - Instructions say to install the Crosby clamps with the nut side facing the longer length of cable. Yours look different. Does it matter?
Yes I need to fully be able to drive under it. If I can make it 1 foot or less from the top of the ceiling to the top of the hard top this will work.Do you need to drive completely under your top, like pass all the way underneath it? Because, technically, you only need to lift the top a few inches in order so drive out from underneath it. Then, it only needs to be high enough to park your front end underneath it. I literally drive in until the top almost touches my windshield frame and stop. I raise mine as high as I do to give me the option of backing underneath it without worrying about the roll bar making contact with the top as I approach. But it’s not required to be that high by any means.