Gatorback Modifications for Rock Rails (Non rock rail flaps)

[ZacStro]

I got Gatorback mud flaps earlier this year, and at the time I had no rock rails and didn't plan on getting any, so I bought standard flaps for no rock rails.

Well, now I just got some factory rock rails. So I need a solution to get the flaps I have to work with the rock rails.
There seems to be 3 possible solutions, #1 seems to be what the makers of the Gatorback think works best, cut holes in the flaps. #2 would be finding a way to move the mud flaps closer to the wheels and further from the rock rail. #3 would be cutting the rock rails back.
(Context: 23 Wildtrack 4 door)

To get it out of the way, #3, I know some people have said they just chose to cut down the rock rails instead of having the holes, and this might be ideally what I'd want, except I have none of the tools for that, and it seems like it would be more work than worth it to do, as I don't have any of the tools to go cutting and filing, nor the experience to get the cut right etc. I do think since I don't need the rock rails much, and it looks cleaner than having holes in the mudflaps, this is the ideal solution, I just don't think it's one ideal for me to do. (Here's a post on that if you're interested though.)

So for #1 I'd be looking to see how I can cut out holes in about the right place to allow the rock rails to be installed. When I emailed the support email from the manufacturers (Truck Hardware), they said they didn't have any measurements to help me cut my own hole, but I *could* just buy the top piece that has the cutout. The issue is, it's $84 per side. So $168 more dollars to spend on already expensive mud flaps. lol So why would they try being helpful by giving me the measurements anyways if they could just make more money off of me?

Even if I chose to get those, I'd *obviously* have to try cutting my own holes first, especially since the ones I have now would be useless anyways if I got ones with precut holes. (if you want the link to buy these parts btw, I can add them below)

Does anyone have some basic measurements of the holes? I can at least see the very bottom line of them looks to be just above the metal bracket from behind. Basically I'd need a measurement of how far in from one of the sides and how far from the top or bottom they measure (2d plane) for each of the 5 corners of the triangle like hole. (I wouldn't care to get a perfectly rounded edges probably, but either way, I should be able to round them out after cutting the basic shape and seeing how it lines up.)

If I went with option #2, this could be the easiest way to not have to make visible changes to the rock rails or the mud flaps, but I'm not sure how much closer to the wheels I can get them without it becoming an issue. If anyone has the mud flaps with rock rails, how deep past the mud flap does the rock rail go? The plan would be to add extra spacers to the hole/holes above that go into the wheel well, but I think since the metal bracket that holds the flaps attaches to the crash bar is directly under and in front of the rock rails, it may take an extra custom part to attach to the crash bar, but also be an inch further in front of it. Would this likely severely effect structural integrity? Come too close to the tires? I may look for bracket shaped parts that I could drill holes in to try this.

If anyone else has run into this issue, of getting the non-rock-rail flaps, then getting rock rails after, how did you resolve it? What did or didn't work? Are there any possible solutions you can think of that might work better than the 3 I listed?

Thanks, guys!

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[ZacStro]

Figured documentation could help others in the future, even if no one else currently is having the issue or able to help me out.

Here's what I've found:
I looked closer and realized the hole the bolt goes through in the the mud flap bracket on the arm, is a slit, so I realized I could move it maybe a half an inch. Closer to the wheel, further from where the rock rail edge lands. (I installed furthest from he wheel possible.)

Further, I realized I could get even more if I intentionally put it at an angle, and I wanted to start with most dramatic and shift inward if I had to.

(Yes, the bolts started rusting pretty quickly, been a few months at most. Not even in a rust belt state. FL)

I also removed the screw with the spacer to ensure it had the most space possible. So here's the results of tilting it the furthest out like that:

Great! The rock rail fits! No hole needed!
Except, when I turn the wheels...

It does kind of make contact with the tire.

But, because it's an angle, the end part that touches the tire is technically further than the rock rail needs it to be.
So I may try either making a bracket that will allow it to stay straight but be that far forward, or see if keeping both bolts at the furthest point works better than angling. (That would be easiest and ideal, but I highly doubt it, because it just barely has space for the rock rail as is.)

Regardless of whether that works, I now know I can easily set up the rock rail and trace the hole if need be to make my cut. (Actually, I might unbolt it from the crash bar entirely. We'll see what works best.)