How to DIY install an ARB Compressor in a Ford Bronco (+GIVEAWAY!)

[Ajtexas]

Awesome

Sponsored

 

[Sadams27]

Ah... finally the mysterious ARB mounting bracket has arrived (almost... anyway).

Whether you’re a seasoned overlander or a newbie off-roader – we can all reap the benefits of an onboard air compressor. Its many capabilities include actuating Air Lockers, inflating tires after deflating, setting tire beads, drying off cookware at camp, pumping up inflatable paddle boards and kayaks, and blowing the sand off your boots and floor mats.

What’s even better? This invaluable adventure upgrade can easily be installed under the hood of your Ford Bronco with our new mounting bracket that has been validated by Ford engineers. Follow along for a step-by-step guide and pre-order your own by contacting any ARB or Ford dealer.

Requires:
ARB Twin Compressor Mounting Bracket #3580030 (Contact an ARB dealer to preorder)
ARB Twin Compressor #CKMTA12
ARB Manifold #171503
ARB Hose Coupling #0740112

Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Unplug the DLCM and remove the two M6 bolts holding the mount to the body.
DO NOT DROP.

3. Remove and discard the harness plug and earthing harness.

4. Remove fasteners (rear half only) for RHS inner guard and lower.

5. Fit the rear support bracket (4655173) using the factory OE M8 flange bolt. Leave loose at this stage.

6. Feed support tube weldment to the firewall and locate it onto the M6 stud. Once on, place the inner guard support bracket over the same OE factory stud, and fasten the OE M6 nut.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lb

7. Use an M8 FL BOLT to temporarily brace the support tube to the rear support bracket.

8. Fix the support arm to the firewall using the M10 Nut stick (bent profile shown below) and one M10 SEMS bolt.

Torque: M10 – 32ft/lbs

9. Once the support arm is fixed, remove the M8 bolt from step 6.

10. Feed the U BOLT CHANNEL behind the chassis from the top

Note: the notch in the part faces toward the top.

11. Fasten the front support bracket to the U channel with two M10 FL bolts. Leave loose at this stage
12. Support Wiring harness to mount with a Zip Tie.

13. Measure outside to outside of the two support brackets. They Should measure 220mm (8.6”). If not, adjust accordingly.

14. Torque - M10 bolts to 32ft/lbs.
15. Torque OE M8 bolt from Step 4 to 16ft/lbs.

16. Remove Twin Compressor from the box and place it upside down on a soft surface.

17. Place the base plate onto the Compressor along with the DLCM.
18. Using two M6 x 25 bolts, two M6 Flat washers attach the DLCM to the Compressor.
19. Use one M6 x 25, one M6 Flat washer, and one M6 FL nut on the third position of the DLCM.

20. Use three fasteners supplied with the Compressor to complete the mounting, and torque to spec.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

21. Secure the coolant hoses with two P clamps, M6x16mm bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

22. Using 2 x M6 x 16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts, fit the Compressor Manifold bracket to the rear mount.

23. Fit the Manifold feet to the manifold mounting bracket using M6x16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

24. Temporarily remove the washer bottle filler neck by removing the bolts retaining them to the vehicle body.

25. Carefully install the assembled Compressor, base plate, and DLCM onto the support brackets.

26. Use 5 x M8 FL BOLTS to secure the base mounting plate to the Front and Rear support brackets.

Torque: M8 - 16ft/lbs

27. Reinstall washer bottle filler neck 27. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access

28. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access through the inner guard.

29. Reinstall the inner guard.

Note: Ensure to install the OE scrivet into ARB inner guard support bracket.

30. Using the fittings provided in kit 171503, fit 1 x JIC4 - 1/4 NPT fitting to the inboard manifold port (as shown in the image to the left).

Note: Ensure to use thread sealant on all 1/4 NPT threads.

31. Repeat the same process for the compressor outlet port.

32. Connect the manifold to the compressor using the braided hose and tighten.

33. Attach the hose coupling (0740112) to the outboard port on the manifold.

34. Using the wiring harness 180415, measure and cut 400mm of wire (purple/black) connected to the purple plug.

Note: Ensure the plug is retained (as shown above)

35. Connect spade connectors to the cut ends.

36. Connect spade connectors to the switch as followed:

37. Pickup power from the stability bar module fuse (10A) located in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse reference #158 in the owner’s manual.

38. Run wiring around the rear section of the engine bay to the compressor switch.

Note: Ensure to insulate the wiring in the conduit.

39. Connect spade connectors to switch pin 2.

40. Crimp a terminal to the end of each of the two red wires on the compressor wiring harness (pn. 180414), and then connect to the positive battery terminal.

41. Connect the 2 black earth wires from the compressor wiring harness to the negative battery terminal.

42. Route the harness around the back of the engine bay. Cable tie every 400mm.

43. Plug the two harnesses into the compressor connectors.
44. Cable tie the harness to the base plate.

Suits 2.3L & 2.7L Ford Broncos - Not compatible with Bronco Raptor and Everglades models

GIVEAWAY

If you made it this far, you’re in luck! We are giving away one new ARB compressor bracket to one of you lucky 6G members.

TO ENTER
1. Reply to this thread.
2. Follow/subscribe to at least one of our social channels.

Instagram: @arb4x4usa
Facebook: www.facebook.com/arbusa
YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/ARB4x4USA

The last day for entries is October 14, 2022, 11:59PST. The winner will be chosen randomly and will be notified in this thread

*ARB will never message you directly and ask for your credit card information*

Good luck!

Detailed instructions! Thanks

Detailed instructions! Thanks

 

[Bronkers]

Whether you’re a seasoned overlander or a newbie off-roader – we can all reap the benefits of an onboard air compressor. Its many capabilities include actuating Air Lockers, inflating tires after deflating, setting tire beads, drying off cookware at camp, pumping up inflatable paddle boards and kayaks, and blowing the sand off your boots and floor mats.

What’s even better? This invaluable adventure upgrade can easily be installed under the hood of your Ford Bronco with our new mounting bracket that has been validated by Ford engineers. Follow along for a step-by-step guide and pre-order your own by contacting any ARB or Ford dealer.

Requires:
ARB Twin Compressor Mounting Bracket #3580030 (Contact an ARB dealer to preorder)
ARB Twin Compressor #CKMTA12
ARB Manifold #171503
ARB Hose Coupling #0740112

Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Unplug the DLCM and remove the two M6 bolts holding the mount to the body.
DO NOT DROP.

3. Remove and discard the harness plug and earthing harness.

4. Remove fasteners (rear half only) for RHS inner guard and lower.

5. Fit the rear support bracket (4655173) using the factory OE M8 flange bolt. Leave loose at this stage.

6. Feed support tube weldment to the firewall and locate it onto the M6 stud. Once on, place the inner guard support bracket over the same OE factory stud, and fasten the OE M6 nut.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lb

7. Use an M8 FL BOLT to temporarily brace the support tube to the rear support bracket.

8. Fix the support arm to the firewall using the M10 Nut stick (bent profile shown below) and one M10 SEMS bolt.

Torque: M10 – 32ft/lbs

9. Once the support arm is fixed, remove the M8 bolt from step 6.

10. Feed the U BOLT CHANNEL behind the chassis from the top

Note: the notch in the part faces toward the top.

11. Fasten the front support bracket to the U channel with two M10 FL bolts. Leave loose at this stage
12. Support Wiring harness to mount with a Zip Tie.

13. Measure outside to outside of the two support brackets. They Should measure 220mm (8.6”). If not, adjust accordingly.

14. Torque - M10 bolts to 32ft/lbs.
15. Torque OE M8 bolt from Step 4 to 16ft/lbs.

16. Remove Twin Compressor from the box and place it upside down on a soft surface.

17. Place the base plate onto the Compressor along with the DLCM.
18. Using two M6 x 25 bolts, two M6 Flat washers attach the DLCM to the Compressor.
19. Use one M6 x 25, one M6 Flat washer, and one M6 FL nut on the third position of the DLCM.

20. Use three fasteners supplied with the Compressor to complete the mounting, and torque to spec.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

21. Secure the coolant hoses with two P clamps, M6x16mm bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

22. Using 2 x M6 x 16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts, fit the Compressor Manifold bracket to the rear mount.

23. Fit the Manifold feet to the manifold mounting bracket using M6x16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

24. Temporarily remove the washer bottle filler neck by removing the bolts retaining them to the vehicle body.

25. Carefully install the assembled Compressor, base plate, and DLCM onto the support brackets.

26. Use 5 x M8 FL BOLTS to secure the base mounting plate to the Front and Rear support brackets.

Torque: M8 - 16ft/lbs

27. Reinstall washer bottle filler neck 27. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access

28. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access through the inner guard.

29. Reinstall the inner guard.

Note: Ensure to install the OE scrivet into ARB inner guard support bracket.

30. Using the fittings provided in kit 171503, fit 1 x JIC4 - 1/4 NPT fitting to the inboard manifold port (as shown in the image to the left).

Note: Ensure to use thread sealant on all 1/4 NPT threads.

31. Repeat the same process for the compressor outlet port.

32. Connect the manifold to the compressor using the braided hose and tighten.

33. Attach the hose coupling (0740112) to the outboard port on the manifold.

34. Using the wiring harness 180415, measure and cut 400mm of wire (purple/black) connected to the purple plug.

Note: Ensure the plug is retained (as shown above)

35. Connect spade connectors to the cut ends.

36. Connect spade connectors to the switch as followed:

37. Pickup power from the stability bar module fuse (10A) located in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse reference #158 in the owner’s manual.

38. Run wiring around the rear section of the engine bay to the compressor switch.

Note: Ensure to insulate the wiring in the conduit.

39. Connect spade connectors to switch pin 2.

40. Crimp a terminal to the end of each of the two red wires on the compressor wiring harness (pn. 180414), and then connect to the positive battery terminal.

41. Connect the 2 black earth wires from the compressor wiring harness to the negative battery terminal.

42. Route the harness around the back of the engine bay. Cable tie every 400mm.

43. Plug the two harnesses into the compressor connectors.
44. Cable tie the harness to the base plate.

Suits 2.3L & 2.7L Ford Broncos - Not compatible with Bronco Raptor and Everglades models

GIVEAWAY

If you made it this far, you’re in luck! We are giving away one new ARB compressor bracket to one of you lucky 6G members.

TO ENTER
1. Reply to this thread.
2. Follow/subscribe to at least one of our social channels.

Instagram: @arb4x4usa
Facebook: www.facebook.com/arbusa
YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/ARB4x4USA

The last day for entries is October 14, 2022, 11:59PST. The winner will be chosen randomly and will be notified in this thread

*ARB will never message you directly and ask for your credit card information*

Good luck!

@Ryan at ARB

Finishing wiring on mine tonight. Install was pretty easy and design is extremely well thought out and robust (vs other designs I have only seen/not touched)

INSTRUCTION CLARIFICATIONS:

1. Remove fender flare (didn't see written but clearly in pics- gives better access)

2. (Recommended) Pull all the scrivits and lip bolts (not just the back half) on fender liner (leave the chewy 'christmas tree' anchors in near front bumper)- then you can (carefully) rotate the whole liner out of way for much better access

3. ARB gives you a new fender liner bracket for one of the scrivits- this REPLACES a factory bracket, which has to be removed- I didn't see this nuance in instructions

4. You have to trim a very tiny amount of thin firewall sound insulation out of the way (exacto knife works well) behind the factory fender liner bracket (that you removed) to give unimpeded access for the thru bolt and 'stick nut' which install thru a slotted hole in firewall assy

5. The 'stick nut' - hadn't seen these before, very handy, but for our application there is a void (toward the cabin side) behind the firewall metal where the stick nut goes - this complicates 'making the bolt' with the stick nut - to assist I had a flexible metal ruler (maybe 1-1/2" wide) that I slid in behind the stick nut to create a backer to keep it from pushing into the void as I was trying to make the bolt (see pic; showing ARB fender liner bracket already installed)

 

[toughtoaster]

Whether you’re a seasoned overlander or a newbie off-roader – we can all reap the benefits of an onboard air compressor. Its many capabilities include actuating Air Lockers, inflating tires after deflating, setting tire beads, drying off cookware at camp, pumping up inflatable paddle boards and kayaks, and blowing the sand off your boots and floor mats.

What’s even better? This invaluable adventure upgrade can easily be installed under the hood of your Ford Bronco with our new mounting bracket that has been validated by Ford engineers. Follow along for a step-by-step guide and pre-order your own by contacting any ARB or Ford dealer.

Requires:
ARB Twin Compressor Mounting Bracket #3580030 (Contact an ARB dealer to preorder)
ARB Twin Compressor #CKMTA12
ARB Manifold #171503
ARB Hose Coupling #0740112

Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Unplug the DLCM and remove the two M6 bolts holding the mount to the body.
DO NOT DROP.

3. Remove and discard the harness plug and earthing harness.

4. Remove fasteners (rear half only) for RHS inner guard and lower.

5. Fit the rear support bracket (4655173) using the factory OE M8 flange bolt. Leave loose at this stage.

6. Feed support tube weldment to the firewall and locate it onto the M6 stud. Once on, place the inner guard support bracket over the same OE factory stud, and fasten the OE M6 nut.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lb

7. Use an M8 FL BOLT to temporarily brace the support tube to the rear support bracket.

8. Fix the support arm to the firewall using the M10 Nut stick (bent profile shown below) and one M10 SEMS bolt.

Torque: M10 – 32ft/lbs

9. Once the support arm is fixed, remove the M8 bolt from step 6.

10. Feed the U BOLT CHANNEL behind the chassis from the top

Note: the notch in the part faces toward the top.

11. Fasten the front support bracket to the U channel with two M10 FL bolts. Leave loose at this stage
12. Support Wiring harness to mount with a Zip Tie.

13. Measure outside to outside of the two support brackets. They Should measure 220mm (8.6”). If not, adjust accordingly.

14. Torque - M10 bolts to 32ft/lbs.
15. Torque OE M8 bolt from Step 4 to 16ft/lbs.

16. Remove Twin Compressor from the box and place it upside down on a soft surface.

17. Place the base plate onto the Compressor along with the DLCM.
18. Using two M6 x 25 bolts, two M6 Flat washers attach the DLCM to the Compressor.
19. Use one M6 x 25, one M6 Flat washer, and one M6 FL nut on the third position of the DLCM.

20. Use three fasteners supplied with the Compressor to complete the mounting, and torque to spec.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

21. Secure the coolant hoses with two P clamps, M6x16mm bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

22. Using 2 x M6 x 16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts, fit the Compressor Manifold bracket to the rear mount.

23. Fit the Manifold feet to the manifold mounting bracket using M6x16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

24. Temporarily remove the washer bottle filler neck by removing the bolts retaining them to the vehicle body.

25. Carefully install the assembled Compressor, base plate, and DLCM onto the support brackets.

26. Use 5 x M8 FL BOLTS to secure the base mounting plate to the Front and Rear support brackets.

Torque: M8 - 16ft/lbs

27. Reinstall washer bottle filler neck 27. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access

28. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access through the inner guard.

29. Reinstall the inner guard.

Note: Ensure to install the OE scrivet into ARB inner guard support bracket.

30. Using the fittings provided in kit 171503, fit 1 x JIC4 - 1/4 NPT fitting to the inboard manifold port (as shown in the image to the left).

Note: Ensure to use thread sealant on all 1/4 NPT threads.

31. Repeat the same process for the compressor outlet port.

32. Connect the manifold to the compressor using the braided hose and tighten.

33. Attach the hose coupling (0740112) to the outboard port on the manifold.

34. Using the wiring harness 180415, measure and cut 400mm of wire (purple/black) connected to the purple plug.

Note: Ensure the plug is retained (as shown above)

35. Connect spade connectors to the cut ends.

36. Connect spade connectors to the switch as followed:

37. Pickup power from the stability bar module fuse (10A) located in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse reference #158 in the owner’s manual.

38. Run wiring around the rear section of the engine bay to the compressor switch.

Note: Ensure to insulate the wiring in the conduit.

39. Connect spade connectors to switch pin 2.

40. Crimp a terminal to the end of each of the two red wires on the compressor wiring harness (pn. 180414), and then connect to the positive battery terminal.

41. Connect the 2 black earth wires from the compressor wiring harness to the negative battery terminal.

42. Route the harness around the back of the engine bay. Cable tie every 400mm.

43. Plug the two harnesses into the compressor connectors.
44. Cable tie the harness to the base plate.

Suits 2.3L & 2.7L Ford Broncos - Not compatible with Bronco Raptor and Everglades models

GIVEAWAY

If you made it this far, you’re in luck! We are giving away one new ARB compressor bracket to one of you lucky 6G members.

TO ENTER
1. Reply to this thread.
2. Follow/subscribe to at least one of our social channels.

Instagram: @arb4x4usa
Facebook: www.facebook.com/arbusa
YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/ARB4x4USA

The last day for entries is October 14, 2022, 11:59PST. The winner will be chosen randomly and will be notified in this thread

*ARB will never message you directly and ask for your credit card information*

Good luck!

I wanted to update the thread that I have installed the bracket and made a little how-to video on it since I won the bracket from ARB!

Overall very impressed with the bracket and install. The only major gotcha was trying to line up the lower and rear bracket while the compressor was on the plate and putting in that upper left bolt along with the lower bracket section butting up against some coolant lines and a little tricky to place on the lower stud. Not part of the bracket, but more part of the hose kit... I wish ARB included a dust cap for the hose coupler attachment.

 

[Ryan at ARB]

I wanted to update the thread that I have installed the bracket and made a little how-to video on it since I won the bracket from ARB!

Overall very impressed with the bracket and install. The only major gotcha was trying to line up the lower and rear bracket while the compressor was on the plate and putting in that upper left bolt along with the lower bracket section butting up against some coolant lines and a little tricky to place on the lower stud. Not part of the bracket, but more part of the hose kit... I wish ARB included a dust cap for the hose coupler attachment.

Awesome, thanks for putting this together!

 

[BadlandsJ]

@Ryan at ARB

I tried installing this bracket last night. While the quality and design look great, the instructions are not great. The photos are so dark in the instruction book I can barely see them. Also, there are a few things that aren't quite clear. I spent about 2-3 hours last night scratching my head saying "wtf?" I'm hoping you can clarify a few things for me...

First question: The directions say: remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness. This is confusing to me. It looks like I'm just supposed to remove this little plastic brace (circled in the above pic) from the wiring harness it's attached to, but the instructions say "remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness," neither of which is this plastic piece. Could you please clarify what is needed for this step?

Second question: When relocating the DLCM, it looks like it will rotate the DLCM and harness about 100-110 degrees, which puts stress on the DLCM harness. (see photo below). The green line is the original harness routing, the red is the (approximate) new harness routing, which creates some hard turns in the harness that puts some stress on it. I really have to work it into place. I can't seem to find another way to route this; is this correct? The DLCM harness and the one below it that it's attached to (shown in yellow) are not very flexible, and it seems to be an awkward position. It will not tuck underneath the coolant reservoir, or anywhere else. Can you advise if this correct? Note: the pic below is with the DLCM attached on the factory bracket.

I've also sent a message to ARB support, but would appreciate all the feedback I can get, and it also may help someone here on the forum that's having trouble.

 

[toughtoaster]

@Ryan at ARB

I tried installing this bracket last night. While the quality and design look great, the instructions are not great. The photos are so dark in the instruction book I can barely see them. Also, there are a few things that aren't quite clear. I spent about 2-3 hours last night scratching my head saying "wtf?" I'm hoping you can clarify a few things for me...

First question: The directions say: remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness. This is confusing to me. It looks like I'm just supposed to remove this little plastic brace (circled in the above pic) from the wiring harness it's attached to, but the instructions say "remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness," neither of which is this plastic piece. Could you please clarify what is needed for this step?

Second question: When relocating the DLCM, it looks like it will rotate the DLCM and harness about 100-110 degrees, which puts stress on the DLCM harness. (see photo below). The green line is the original harness routing, the red is the (approximate) new harness routing, which creates some hard turns in the harness that puts some stress on it. I really have to work it into place. I can't seem to find another way to route this; is this correct? The DLCM harness and the one below it that it's attached to (shown in yellow) are not very flexible, and it seems to be an awkward position. It will not tuck underneath the coolant reservoir, or anywhere else. Can you advise if this correct? Note: the pic below is with the DLCM attached on the factory bracket.

I've also sent a message to ARB support, but would appreciate all the feedback I can get, and it also may help someone here on the forum that's having trouble.

There’s various videos that might help. I created this one when I did my install. That DCLM sits under the bracket and the plug portion faces the wheel well liner. I didn’t discard anything and reused the ground strap.

 

[BadlandsJ]

There’s various videos that might help. I created this one when I did my install. That DCLM sits under the bracket and the plug portion faces the wheel well liner. I didn’t discard anything and reused the ground strap.

I watched your video. It helped a lot, but it didn't answer the two questions a posted above.

 

[toughtoaster]

I watched your video. It helped a lot, but it didn't answer the two questions a posted above.

That first part you circled was never removed on my install. Everything removed was to the right of that piece. As for the harness being stressed I didn’t have any issues and wasn’t concerned with it bending. Might be different if you have a 2.7L as I had the 2.3L. My main issues were with that support bracket tube attaching to the firewall.

 

[Glenjafett]

Do we know if the ARB mount works with the K&N Intake?

 

[NorthTexasBronco]

Very cool, my wife would kill me though.

 

[userdude]

This would be so awesome if only I wanted to spend the cash.

 

[NorthTexasBronco]

Whether you’re a seasoned overlander or a newbie off-roader – we can all reap the benefits of an onboard air compressor. Its many capabilities include actuating Air Lockers, inflating tires after deflating, setting tire beads, drying off cookware at camp, pumping up inflatable paddle boards and kayaks, and blowing the sand off your boots and floor mats.

What’s even better? This invaluable adventure upgrade can easily be installed under the hood of your Ford Bronco with our new mounting bracket that has been validated by Ford engineers. Follow along for a step-by-step guide and pre-order your own by contacting any ARB or Ford dealer.

Requires:
ARB Twin Compressor Mounting Bracket #3580030 (Contact an ARB dealer to preorder)
ARB Twin Compressor #CKMTA12
ARB Manifold #171503
ARB Hose Coupling #0740112

Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Unplug the DLCM and remove the two M6 bolts holding the mount to the body.
DO NOT DROP.

3. Remove and discard the harness plug and earthing harness.

4. Remove fasteners (rear half only) for RHS inner guard and lower.

5. Fit the rear support bracket (4655173) using the factory OE M8 flange bolt. Leave loose at this stage.

6. Feed support tube weldment to the firewall and locate it onto the M6 stud. Once on, place the inner guard support bracket over the same OE factory stud, and fasten the OE M6 nut.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lb

7. Use an M8 FL BOLT to temporarily brace the support tube to the rear support bracket.

8. Fix the support arm to the firewall using the M10 Nut stick (bent profile shown below) and one M10 SEMS bolt.

Torque: M10 – 32ft/lbs

9. Once the support arm is fixed, remove the M8 bolt from step 6.

10. Feed the U BOLT CHANNEL behind the chassis from the top

Note: the notch in the part faces toward the top.

11. Fasten the front support bracket to the U channel with two M10 FL bolts. Leave loose at this stage
12. Support Wiring harness to mount with a Zip Tie.

13. Measure outside to outside of the two support brackets. They Should measure 220mm (8.6”). If not, adjust accordingly.

14. Torque - M10 bolts to 32ft/lbs.
15. Torque OE M8 bolt from Step 4 to 16ft/lbs.

16. Remove Twin Compressor from the box and place it upside down on a soft surface.

17. Place the base plate onto the Compressor along with the DLCM.
18. Using two M6 x 25 bolts, two M6 Flat washers attach the DLCM to the Compressor.
19. Use one M6 x 25, one M6 Flat washer, and one M6 FL nut on the third position of the DLCM.

20. Use three fasteners supplied with the Compressor to complete the mounting, and torque to spec.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

21. Secure the coolant hoses with two P clamps, M6x16mm bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

22. Using 2 x M6 x 16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts, fit the Compressor Manifold bracket to the rear mount.

23. Fit the Manifold feet to the manifold mounting bracket using M6x16 bolts, washers, and flange nuts.

Torque: M6 – 7ft/lbs

24. Temporarily remove the washer bottle filler neck by removing the bolts retaining them to the vehicle body.

25. Carefully install the assembled Compressor, base plate, and DLCM onto the support brackets.

26. Use 5 x M8 FL BOLTS to secure the base mounting plate to the Front and Rear support brackets.

Torque: M8 - 16ft/lbs

27. Reinstall washer bottle filler neck 27. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access

28. Plug in the DLCM by gaining access through the inner guard.

29. Reinstall the inner guard.

Note: Ensure to install the OE scrivet into ARB inner guard support bracket.

30. Using the fittings provided in kit 171503, fit 1 x JIC4 - 1/4 NPT fitting to the inboard manifold port (as shown in the image to the left).

Note: Ensure to use thread sealant on all 1/4 NPT threads.

31. Repeat the same process for the compressor outlet port.

32. Connect the manifold to the compressor using the braided hose and tighten.

33. Attach the hose coupling (0740112) to the outboard port on the manifold.

34. Using the wiring harness 180415, measure and cut 400mm of wire (purple/black) connected to the purple plug.

Note: Ensure the plug is retained (as shown above)

35. Connect spade connectors to the cut ends.

36. Connect spade connectors to the switch as followed:

37. Pickup power from the stability bar module fuse (10A) located in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse reference #158 in the owner’s manual.

38. Run wiring around the rear section of the engine bay to the compressor switch.

Note: Ensure to insulate the wiring in the conduit.

39. Connect spade connectors to switch pin 2.

40. Crimp a terminal to the end of each of the two red wires on the compressor wiring harness (pn. 180414), and then connect to the positive battery terminal.

41. Connect the 2 black earth wires from the compressor wiring harness to the negative battery terminal.

42. Route the harness around the back of the engine bay. Cable tie every 400mm.

43. Plug the two harnesses into the compressor connectors.
44. Cable tie the harness to the base plate.

Suits 2.3L & 2.7L Ford Broncos - Not compatible with Bronco Raptor and Everglades models

GIVEAWAY

If you made it this far, you’re in luck! We are giving away one new ARB compressor bracket to one of you lucky 6G members.

TO ENTER
1. Reply to this thread.
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[geargeek]

Having secured all of the parts, I'm planning to install the ARB mount in the coming weeks. ARB's mount design and build looks very robust, and I like where it positions the compressor vs. other vendor's designs.

A few things I'm planning to do differently:
1) Omit the manifold and instead route compressor air to the ARB Pressure Control system.
2) Route air from Pressure Control to an external hose coupling hidden near the front of the Bronco.
3) Use one AUX switch (instead of ARB's switch) to turn on both compressor and pressure control (a cleaner and better sealed electrical install - no switch in the engine compartment).

With this setup, I can hook-up a 4-tire hose kit, flip the AUX switch, select target pressure on my phone, and take a nap or whatever. Don't need to raise the hood, which could be nice if it's blowing sideways rain (although if it's really hot I would probably still open up the hood to keep things cool).

My only concern is the Pressure Control's PCM (Pressure Control Module) - it's a little plastic box with a small circuit board and electrical connector that is the brains of the Pressure Control system. It is not fully sealed - it has some space around the electrical connector presumably to allow heat generated by the circuit board to exit. Due to wiring loom constraints, it needs to be mounted within 3 ft the PRV (Pressure Regulator Valve) unit, so for me it will need to be in the engine compartment. I'm concerned how the PCM will hold up in that environment. I do plan to mount it in as protected of a spot as I can. I suppose I could create a custom loom and route the PCM under the dash somewhere, but that's too much of a pain for me to tackle right now.

Anyone out there with experience with ARB Pressure Control? How's it working? Where's your PCM mounted?

 

[geargeek]

@Ryan at ARB

I tried installing this bracket last night. While the quality and design look great, the instructions are not great. The photos are so dark in the instruction book I can barely see them. Also, there are a few things that aren't quite clear. I spent about 2-3 hours last night scratching my head saying "wtf?" I'm hoping you can clarify a few things for me...

First question: The directions say: remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness. This is confusing to me. It looks like I'm just supposed to remove this little plastic brace (circled in the above pic) from the wiring harness it's attached to, but the instructions say "remove and discard harness plug and earthing harness," neither of which is this plastic piece. Could you please clarify what is needed for this step?

Second question: When relocating the DLCM, it looks like it will rotate the DLCM and harness about 100-110 degrees, which puts stress on the DLCM harness. (see photo below). The green line is the original harness routing, the red is the (approximate) new harness routing, which creates some hard turns in the harness that puts some stress on it. I really have to work it into place. I can't seem to find another way to route this; is this correct? The DLCM harness and the one below it that it's attached to (shown in yellow) are not very flexible, and it seems to be an awkward position. It will not tuck underneath the coolant reservoir, or anywhere else. Can you advise if this correct? Note: the pic below is with the DLCM attached on the factory bracket.

I've also sent a message to ARB support, but would appreciate all the feedback I can get, and it also may help someone here on the forum that's having trouble.

I'm in the midst of this installation on a 2.7L. I might be too late to help you, but maybe you can let me know what you ended up doing.

For your question 1: The white clip and rubber plug that holds the clip to the body does in fact need to be relocated on my 2.7L. The instructions later say to zip tie that harness to the front support bracket (there is even a hole in the support bracket for that, and a zip tie provided). That plug gets in the way of the ARB mount's front support bracket - that's why it has to go. I just pulled the black plug out of the hole, but left the clip and plug attached and folded the white clip a bit to tuck it under the compressor mounting plate, then zip-tied as per instructions.

For question 2: There are enough mounting holes to only rotate the DLCM about half of ARB's recommendation, which might help with the harness. I'm at that step now and trying to decide which way to go. See photo below.

Alternate DLCM position - blue holes mount through to compressor, red hole requires bolt+nut:

Edited - UPDATE: The alternate DLCM position above is too tight a fit, and the recommended DLCM position puts too much strain on the DLCM cable to my liking.

Another bigger issue just noticed: My OE DLCM bracket has a support arm for the uppermost wheel liner scrivet, and after this install there won't be anything there to attach the scrivet to because the OE DLCM bracket is removed by this installation. This could be resolved by ARB providing a replacement bracket for that location that would be similar to the OE bracket, but without the arms to hold the DLCM, and a slightly different shape to get around the base plate. Seems to be a glaring oversight. See photo below. Am I missing something?

OE DLCM bracket and wheel liner support - my wheel liner is dropped right now, but originally it was attached to the bottom of the OE DLCM bracket with a scrivet:

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