Installed Oracle grill lights in Black & Amber -- DIY writeup w/ photos

[gjproducer]

Took delivery last week and I’m now getting around to hooking up these accessories.

I know there are some other guides out there, just wanted to share.

*Extras needed: More wire - I went with 18 gauge (one red and one black for ground)

I also used heat sink and actually soldered for a better connection

Ring ground terminal connecter



Removing the grill was pretty easy. On the 22’ model there was a slight difference from another guide I saw. Really just more of those dual layer plastic screws that just pop out and you have to just take out one screw in the overlapping air filter.

For those with camera in the grill just unplug the power and washer fluid on the left side.

Once the grill is removed flip it over so you’re looking at the inside. Take a drill bit and slowly drill out the white circles that hold each letter on. Just break the glue on each and the letter will fall out.

Flip the grill over and clean off the front where your white letters just fell off from in prep for sticking on the Oracle letters.

Feed the new letters wire through the holes you drilled out and stick the new letters on.

Flip the grill back over start to organize the spaghetti. The letter “B” and the last “O” needs extra wire to make it in the middle.

I was able to bury most of the wire in a grove that runs along the grill. Some of the letters though needed some attention. If you think you did a good job burying the wires hold it up and have someone look at it or flip it over and stand back. I had a few places that the red wire was showing.

Mainly used black Gorilla tape to keep all the wires down and clean. When I was done you couldn’t see any wires looking at the grill front on.

Your goal is connect all of the reds together and all of the blacks together. How you accomplish this is up to you. I went with soldering them all and using a heat shrink over it.

I wanted a secure connection and also protection against weather/environment.
Include one of the extra wires in each group when soldering and heat shrink. This is the wire you are running to the ground and the Aux upfitter.

Walk over and hold the grill up like you were going to put it back on and see how much of the extra wire you need to reach the upfitter wire and ground in the back right. Cut appropriately and put the grill back on.

I used black zip ties inside of the engine to run the red and black wires along the right wall. I used a ground clamp with a metal ring and clamped it on. Screwed off the existing ground and just added mine there.

Connected the red to the yellow/brown upfitter cord which is Aux 6 saving some of the other aux’s for larger accessories.

That’s about it. At this time I have just been leaving my Aux switch on which then turns off when the engine is off. Gives me the ability to choose if I want to run them during the day or at all even.

I’m very happy with the overall look! Had a happy accident with a little glow on the Bull bar as well.

Sponsored

 

[helifino16]

Really like the blacked-out letters. I got the white back lights.

 

[burntomaro]

Looks great mate. Love Oracle and their products. Will be one of my first things I buy along with the colorshift halo+drl. Had them on my Camaro and are a head turner.

 

[JimmyG]

Took delivery last week and I’m now getting around to hooking up these accessories.

I know there are some other guides out there, just wanted to share.

*Extras needed: More wire - I went with 18 gauge (one red and one black for ground)

I also used heat sink and actually soldered for a better connection

Ring ground terminal connecter



Removing the grill was pretty easy. On the 22’ model there was a slight difference from another guide I saw. Really just more of those dual layer plastic screws that just pop out and you have to just take out one screw in the overlapping air filter.

For those with camera in the grill just unplug the power and washer fluid on the left side.

Once the grill is removed flip it over so you’re looking at the inside. Take a drill bit and slowly drill out the white circles that hold each letter on. Just break the glue on each and the letter will fall out.

Flip the grill over and clean off the front where your white letters just fell off from in prep for sticking on the Oracle letters.

Feed the new letters wire through the holes you drilled out and stick the new letters on.

Flip the grill back over start to organize the spaghetti. The letter “B” and the last “O” needs extra wire to make it in the middle.

I was able to bury most of the wire in a grove that runs along the grill. Some of the letters though needed some attention. If you think you did a good job burying the wires hold it up and have someone look at it or flip it over and stand back. I had a few places that the red wire was showing.

Mainly used black Gorilla tape to keep all the wires down and clean. When I was done you couldn’t see any wires looking at the grill front on.

Your goal is connect all of the reds together and all of the blacks together. How you accomplish this is up to you. I went with soldering them all and using a heat shrink over it.

I wanted a secure connection and also protection against weather/environment.
Include one of the extra wires in each group when soldering and heat shrink. This is the wire you are running to the ground and the Aux upfitter.

Walk over and hold the grill up like you were going to put it back on and see how much of the extra wire you need to reach the upfitter wire and ground in the back right. Cut appropriately and put the grill back on.

I used black zip ties inside of the engine to run the red and black wires along the right wall. I used a ground clamp with a metal ring and clamped it on. Screwed off the existing ground and just added mine there.

Connected the red to the yellow/brown upfitter cord which is Aux 6 saving some of the other aux’s for larger accessories.

That’s about it. At this time I have just been leaving my Aux switch on which then turns off when the engine is off. Gives me the ability to choose if I want to run them during the day or at all even.

I’m very happy with the overall look! Had a happy accident with a little glow on the Bull bar as well.

Sorry off topic, but I gotta know, where'd you get that mini bully bar?

 

[gjproducer]

Sorry off topic, but I gotta know, where'd you get that mini bully bar?

Here

 

[JimmyG]

Here

Bad link

 

[gjproducer]

Bad link

My bad - this one should work

Mabett Bull Bar Black Powder Coated for Ford Bronco Accessories 2021 2022 2/4-Door Front Bumper Grille Guard https://a.co/d/9Fc6JiE

 

[JimmyG]

My bad - this one should work

Mabett Bull Bar Black Powder Coated for Ford Bronco Accessories 2021 2022 2/4-Door Front Bumper Grille Guard https://a.co/d/9Fc6JiE

THANK YOU!!!

 

[66GT]

Took delivery last week and I’m now getting around to hooking up these accessories.

I know there are some other guides out there, just wanted to share.

*Extras needed: More wire - I went with 18 gauge (one red and one black for ground)

I also used heat sink and actually soldered for a better connection

Ring ground terminal connecter



Removing the grill was pretty easy. On the 22’ model there was a slight difference from another guide I saw. Really just more of those dual layer plastic screws that just pop out and you have to just take out one screw in the overlapping air filter.

For those with camera in the grill just unplug the power and washer fluid on the left side.

Once the grill is removed flip it over so you’re looking at the inside. Take a drill bit and slowly drill out the white circles that hold each letter on. Just break the glue on each and the letter will fall out.

Flip the grill over and clean off the front where your white letters just fell off from in prep for sticking on the Oracle letters.

Feed the new letters wire through the holes you drilled out and stick the new letters on.

Flip the grill back over start to organize the spaghetti. The letter “B” and the last “O” needs extra wire to make it in the middle.

I was able to bury most of the wire in a grove that runs along the grill. Some of the letters though needed some attention. If you think you did a good job burying the wires hold it up and have someone look at it or flip it over and stand back. I had a few places that the red wire was showing.

Mainly used black Gorilla tape to keep all the wires down and clean. When I was done you couldn’t see any wires looking at the grill front on.

Your goal is connect all of the reds together and all of the blacks together. How you accomplish this is up to you. I went with soldering them all and using a heat shrink over it.

I wanted a secure connection and also protection against weather/environment.
Include one of the extra wires in each group when soldering and heat shrink. This is the wire you are running to the ground and the Aux upfitter.

Walk over and hold the grill up like you were going to put it back on and see how much of the extra wire you need to reach the upfitter wire and ground in the back right. Cut appropriately and put the grill back on.

I used black zip ties inside of the engine to run the red and black wires along the right wall. I used a ground clamp with a metal ring and clamped it on. Screwed off the existing ground and just added mine there.

Connected the red to the yellow/brown upfitter cord which is Aux 6 saving some of the other aux’s for larger accessories.

That’s about it. At this time I have just been leaving my Aux switch on which then turns off when the engine is off. Gives me the ability to choose if I want to run them during the day or at all even.

I’m very happy with the overall look! Had a happy accident with a little glow on the Bull bar as well.

Looks great! Have you thought about amber DRLs as well? They can easily be changed in ForScan.

Unfortunately, the codes I used only work in DRL mode (go back to white when headlights are on)... but I think they would look sick with those illuminated amber grille letters.

 

[gjproducer]

THANK YOU!!!

You absolutely need a TP40 bit. Anything included in the bronco does not fit. T40 are common at hardware stores but is not an exact fit. I ordered a set on Amazon and it fits perfectly for any bumper bolts.

OTC 6180 TORX PLUS Bit Socket Set - 9 Piece https://a.co/d/2FfIIQP

 

[gjproducer]

Looks great! Have you thought about amber DRLs as well? They can easily be changed in ForScan.

Unfortunately, the codes I used only work in DRL mode (go back to white when headlights are on)... but I think they would look sick with those illuminated amber grille letters.

Yes! I’ve been following a few of those threads. I am clearing my physical accessory backlog in my office before I dive into Forscan.

You mind if I reach out with any questions for those Amber DRL’s? Or can you point me to the thread that has the latest info? A few I read were kind of all over the place with trial and errors.

 

[JimmyG]

You absolutely need a TP40 bit. Anything included in the bronco does not fit. T40 are common at hardware stores but is not an exact fit. I ordered a set on Amazon and it fits perfectly for any bumper bolts.

OTC 6180 TORX PLUS Bit Socket Set - 9 Piece https://a.co/d/2FfIIQP

Thanks! I've got a few of them. Appreciate the help.

 

[66GT]

Yes! I’ve been following a few of those threads. I am clearing my physical accessory backlog in my office before I dive into Forscan.

You mind if I reach out with any questions for those Amber DRL’s? Or can you point me to the thread that has the latest info? A few I read were kind of all over the place with trial and errors.

No problem. This waa just a simple change of two lines of code

In Forscan I changed the configuration in BdyCM Module config (AS BUILT format)

from this:
726-43-01 0202 0000 0176
to:
726-43-01 0101 0000 0176

0101 which is 'Turn and DRL'. Default was 0202 which was 'Turn Only'. 0303 and 0404 leave the position (marker lights) having priority. If there is a way to change Turn Signals to have top priority then 0404 would work.

If you go into the non (asbuilt) version, you can just search for "front" and change the front left and right turns to 'Turn and DRL'. It will change the as built to 0101 for you id that is easier for you.

This is as good as it gets so far. Remember for DRL to go full amber you need the transmission in D or R. Turn signals work in all headlight modes, but amber DRL goes back to white once headlights come on.

Still waiting for someone to crack the code on keeping the ambers on when the headlights come on... but I think even running just the amber DRLs looks pretty unique. (and I think it's a good complement to running amber Raptor lights, too).

 

[gjproducer]

No problem. This waa just a simple change of two lines of code



Still waiting for someone to crack the code on keeping the ambers on when the headlights come on... but I think even running just the amber DRLs looks pretty unique. (and I think it's a good complement to running amber Raptor lights, too).

Perfect, thanks!

 

[JackTripper]

Took delivery last week and I’m now getting around to hooking up these accessories.

I know there are some other guides out there, just wanted to share.

*Extras needed: More wire - I went with 18 gauge (one red and one black for ground)

I also used heat sink and actually soldered for a better connection

Ring ground terminal connecter



Removing the grill was pretty easy. On the 22’ model there was a slight difference from another guide I saw. Really just more of those dual layer plastic screws that just pop out and you have to just take out one screw in the overlapping air filter.

For those with camera in the grill just unplug the power and washer fluid on the left side.

Once the grill is removed flip it over so you’re looking at the inside. Take a drill bit and slowly drill out the white circles that hold each letter on. Just break the glue on each and the letter will fall out.

Flip the grill over and clean off the front where your white letters just fell off from in prep for sticking on the Oracle letters.

Feed the new letters wire through the holes you drilled out and stick the new letters on.

Flip the grill back over start to organize the spaghetti. The letter “B” and the last “O” needs extra wire to make it in the middle.

I was able to bury most of the wire in a grove that runs along the grill. Some of the letters though needed some attention. If you think you did a good job burying the wires hold it up and have someone look at it or flip it over and stand back. I had a few places that the red wire was showing.

Mainly used black Gorilla tape to keep all the wires down and clean. When I was done you couldn’t see any wires looking at the grill front on.

Your goal is connect all of the reds together and all of the blacks together. How you accomplish this is up to you. I went with soldering them all and using a heat shrink over it.

I wanted a secure connection and also protection against weather/environment.
Include one of the extra wires in each group when soldering and heat shrink. This is the wire you are running to the ground and the Aux upfitter.

Walk over and hold the grill up like you were going to put it back on and see how much of the extra wire you need to reach the upfitter wire and ground in the back right. Cut appropriately and put the grill back on.

I used black zip ties inside of the engine to run the red and black wires along the right wall. I used a ground clamp with a metal ring and clamped it on. Screwed off the existing ground and just added mine there.

Connected the red to the yellow/brown upfitter cord which is Aux 6 saving some of the other aux’s for larger accessories.

That’s about it. At this time I have just been leaving my Aux switch on which then turns off when the engine is off. Gives me the ability to choose if I want to run them during the day or at all even.

I’m very happy with the overall look! Had a happy accident with a little glow on the Bull bar as well.

What kind of bull-bar is that?

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