Kicker key remote wire help please

[Whodat]

I apologize if this has been addressed 1000 times. I can't find the simple answer. 2024 Wildtrak. Non B&O system. Attempting to install Kicker Key 200.4 amp. Harness I am using is LocPro LPHFD31. I bought this amp as I don't have to run power wire to the battery. Want power to come from stock radio.
Now, the question: where do I connect the blue remote wire so the amp will turn on? Did I see somewhere that this wire can be connected to the yellow/red wire connections for power on the harness?
If I do need to hook this to the fuse box under the steering wheel to which fuse. Crutchfield told me, I've gotten conflicting information from them on this, to wrap the wire around the fuse for the washer wipers. I think that fuse is not in the box under the steering wheel.
Again, I'm sorry for the basic question here and looking for the specific answer. I have never installed an amp and took a shot at this one as it seemed this was one I could get done. I'm right to the point of returning it but think if I can get this one question answered I'll be good to go.
Thanks for the help.

Sponsored

 

[Brian_B]

You normally set a kicker up for speaker detect and do not use a remote wire - but with the LOC you may set that up for line detect then run a wire from the LOC to the amp.

Also a really good idea to run a new power line for that amp

 

[Whodat]

So how do I set up for speaker detect? I am asking as I have hooked up the amp four times and it won't power on. Each time crutchfield tells me something different about having to run power to the battery or the remote wire to a fuse. AGain, I apologize for my ignorance but how do I set up for speaker detect. Thank you

 

[Unfortuitous]

I will second what Brian said.

I installed the 200.4 in my non B&O system and had the exact same concern as you, I called Crutchfield and they offered to have an install tech call me back when one was available, so while I waited, I called Kicker and they said leave it disconnected and let the amp turn itself on and off when it receives a signal, and only if that does not work, then I should find a feed for the blue wire).

Two minutes after I hung up with Kicker, a Crutchfield tech called me back and told me the exact same thing.

Full disclosure - I am old and forgetful, and it very well may have been that I called Kicker first and they were the ones that called me back, but either way, I spoke to techs at both places and they both said what Brian said. Hope that helps

 

[Whodat]

I will second what Brian said.

I installed the 200.4 in my non B&O system and had the exact same concern as you, I called Crutchfield and they offered to have an install tech call me back when one was available, so while I waited, I called Kicker and they said leave it disconnected and let the amp turn itself on and off when it receives a signal, and only if that does not work, then I should find a feed for the blue wire).

Two minutes after I hung up with Kicker, a Crutchfield tech called me back and told me the exact same thing.

Full disclosure - I am old and forgetful, and it very well may have been that I called Kicker first and they were the ones that called me back, but either way, I spoke to techs at both places and they both said what Brian said. Hope that helps

Ok, so if it is not powering on with the blue wire not connected AND power is not connected to the battery, what am I missing that I need to do to get this amp to power on??

 

[Unfortuitous]

So how do I set up for speaker detect? I am asking as I have hooked up the amp four times and it won't power on. Each time crutchfield tells me something different about having to run power to the battery or the remote wire to a fuse. AGain, I apologize for my ignorance but how do I set up for speaker detect. Thank you

I think you have to have a separate, dedicated power lead to power the amp (I would run it to a fuse and then directly to the battery - make sure the fuse is near the battery hookup) It is drawing 200W. I am not positive, but I would think that any wires coming out of the head unit would not be adequate to supply power to the amp, and you may risk blowing something even if there is a 12v feed coming out that you could tap into.

 

[Unfortuitous]

Ok, so if it is not powering on with the blue wire not connected AND power is not connected to the battery, what am I missing that I need to do to get this amp to power on??

200w at 12v is like 17 amps or so, so you would need a dedicated power lead wire that can handle that draw. The wires coming out of the head unit are probably 18 gauge or so and way too small to handle the power the amp will need.

I believe the fuse was 20amps and the wire was 10 gauge on the kit for that amp. You will want a dedicated lead that can handle that electrical draw or you risk all kids of bad things happening. Seriously, do not run too small of wire to power any car electronics. The likelihood of a fire is way too common if you do.

 

[Whodat]

200w at 12v is like 17 amps or so, so you would need a dedicated power lead wire that can handle that draw. The wires coming out of the head unit are probably 18 gauge or so and way too small to handle the power the amp will need.

I believe the fuse was 20amps and the wire was 10 gauge on the kit for that amp. You will want a dedicated lead that can handle that electrical draw or you risk all kids of bad things happening. Seriously, do not run to small of wire to power any car electronics. The likelihood of a fire is way too common if you do.

Yeah, I'm not running power for anything as I will pay someone to install. This particular amp can run with power from the stock radio. Crutchfield specifically told me no dedicated power line is necessary for this amp. I'm sure of that as I wouldn't have purchased one that requires electrical wiring. The harness from crutchfield has leads that connect the amp to power from the stock radio.

 

[Brian_B]

There is a switch on the kicker to flip between remote on and line detect - I dont have one to take a pic but should be in the manual. Some folks have reported the button may work “backwards” from what you may expect. You also have to run a calibration on the amp - again, refer to the manual


And the amp will work with stock wire, but it will be power starved and have issues delivering clean music at moderate-high volumes

 

[Unfortuitous]

Ok, so if it is not powering on with the blue wire not connected AND power is not connected to the battery, what am I missing that I need to do to get this amp to power on??

Sorry, I feel like I probably have not answered your question. What you have to do is run wire from the battery that is on a 20 amp fuse to the red wire on the amp (I would recommend 10 guage stranded copper wire for this - a generic 20A car amp wiring kit should be fairly cheap and addequate). The black wire from the amp has to be grounded, but that is easy because you can ground it anywhere on the vehicle chassis.

I do not believe there is a plug and play harness that allows you to avoid this step. The harnesses usually just make routing the speakers to the amp and back much easier, because they allow you to re-use the factory speaker wire without having to run a second set of wires from the amp to each speaker.

 

[Brian_B]

Im not aware of any plug and play harnesses that pull main line power either - but i admit one could exist that i just dont know about, and I know people have run kickers from the sub amp power - not sure if you can do the head unit power easily though

 

[Unfortuitous]

Yeah, I'm not running power for anything as I will pay someone to install. This particular amp can run with power from the stock radio. Crutchfield specifically told me no dedicated power line is necessary for this amp. I'm sure of that as I wouldn't have purchased one that requires electrical wiring. The harness from crutchfield has leads that connect the amp to power from the stock radio.

Ok, sorry, I had not hear about the crutchfield harness, so I guess there is an alternate power mode that I was not aware of? I am reading my installation instructions that came with my 200.4 amp and it doesn't mention that alternative installation, but my unit is last years model, so it may be different.

Sorry to have wasted your time. Just make sure that you get confirmation on the power draw the amp will want in that alternate mode, and that the wires coming out of the head unit are large enough and that the head unit power source is enough to support it to avoid blowing something out or a vehicle fire.

Good luck!

 

[Whodat]

This is the harness
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-JDNJC...x4HD1g6oHf2zMrd_SXy8118BEO4QqN8UaAjXeEALw_wcB

 

[WarthogJr]

I’m 54 years old and have installed several systems in my vehicles since I was a teenager. Every car amplifier I’ve ever seen, installed, read about or heard about requires two separate power sources. The main power needs to be connected to a 12v source that is always on (battery). That power cable should have an inline fuse appropriate for the size of the amp.
The other power input to amps is a “signal” type. It is usually a blue, small gauge wire that doesn’t require an inline fuse and it tells the amp when to turn on. Although electrical current flows through this wire, it’s a very small amount. It needs to be connected to any powered source in the vehicle that only has current flowing when the ignition is on. Some cigarette lighters for example don’t work when the key is off…so that would work.
Sounds like your amp might not need the traditional signal power connection (blue wire) because it can detect when a music source is active, so then it knows to turn on.
Either way, you have to supply your amp with a 12v always-on source of power for it to work…and that means a cable to the battery.

 

[Unfortuitous]

This is the harness
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-JDNJC...x4HD1g6oHf2zMrd_SXy8118BEO4QqN8UaAjXeEALw_wcB

I actually have one of those harnesses. I think there might have been some miscommunication on Crutchfield's part. Don't quote me on this, and maybe someone that is more of an expert on car audio than I am can confirm here, but that harness has a LPH power out option that says it can power your "audio adapters", which i believe is for powering a LOC, but not an amp.

The wires it came with are 18gauge, so I don't think you would want to try to power that 200W amp through that harness. Unless the amp can be set to a low power mode, (which may be possible, but I don't know how to do that, and I'd hate to have you overload something trying to, so please be careful).

The good news is that running a wire to power the amp is super easy, and there are probably a dozen videos on how to do that on youtube. And running a dedicated wire guarantees that your amp won't be underpowered and will sound better, which is a win win.

Sponsored