Kicker Key 200.4 + 500.1 amp install help

[Badlands75]

Thanks again to the many audio upgrade posts, I plan to install both the 200.4 and the 500.1 and looking for a little assistance. I have read through many of the posts and videos but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for so thought I'd make a specific post. I have a 2023 Badlands 7-speakers non-B&O that has the OEM subwoofer and amp. and working through speaker upgrades. Thanks in advance for any insight.

1. I know the headunit can power the 200.4 amp but I would like to power this directly off the battery since I will be replacing the OEM sub amp with the 500.4 amp. Understanding I'll need to upgrade the factory power cable running to the new sub amp does it make sense to run a primary power cable from the battery and then use a distribution block to split power to each amp. I haven't seen anyone do this.....is this overkill to power the 200.4? Any downside in doing this? Is there a plug and play kit available from either Hoel Wiring or PnP (I've scoured the websites but didn't see any)?

2. With replacing the OEM sub amp with a Kicker Key 500.1 amp (and upgrading the sub), my question is can the 500.1 amp plug somehow into the factory wiring already in place or should a new wiring kit be used to replace the existing wiring? I know I need to upgrade the power cable to 8 gauge, but curious if the other existing factory wiring can be used with the 500.1 sub.

A lot of this is new to me so appreciate all the help.

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[Brian_B]

I'll need to upgrade the factory power cable running to the new sub amp does it make sense to run a primary power cable from the battery and then use a distribution block to split power to each amp.

Yes, you can do this, but you need to size and fuse it properly.

The run to the battery through the firewall needs to be big enough to run both amps. And it needs to be fused as close to the battery as you can get it.

Then, at the distribution block, you need to fuse each run coming out of that distribution block, as close to the block as you can get it.

No real downsides other than making sure you size it properly in the first place, and it does make it easier just pulling one wire through the firewall - although you can end up with some fuse blocks in some odd locations. I've done this myself many times.

I'll leave the rest of your questions to others, I didn't use a Kicker and can't answer them as well as someone who's done it.

 

[2022 base]

this guy has a plug and play harness for the kicker amp...hope that helps

DIY 2023 Ford Bronco Fake Subwoofer Upgrade (youtube.com)

 

[Cruiser]

I used the Enfig plug and play kit. Works like a charm.

 

[Cruiser]

I used the Enfig plug and play kit. Works like a charm.

I ran power cable to battery for the Kicker 200.4

 

[JonB2]

Hi. I plan to install Kicker 200.4 amp. It was advised to run power wire to battery for best performance. Then planning on install of Kicker 500.1 sub amp which also requires direct battery connection. So that means I need to run TWO separate power wires to battery--is that correct?

Thanks!

 

[cmtaz]

...So that means I need to run TWO separate power wires to battery--is that correct?

Thanks!

Yes, and it's not that much more difficult.

Pull 2 properly fused and sized cables from the battery thru the grommet. One (the smaller one) will go under the steering wheel, the other one lay it under the sill plate or the back plate until you a ready to use it. DON'T HOOK THE ONE THAT IS NOT GOING TO BE USED UP TO THE BATTERY.

It's not a bad idea to do the amp and sub apart from each other, as it will give you a chance to test out the Key200.4 setup tunings. I pulled the bass blockers on my 6.5's and went down to 300hz on my 4 inch dash speakers, and settled at 80hz filter on the Key200.4, before all was done.

Then I added in the factory amp and Kicker 6.75 sub.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Hi. I plan to install Kicker 200.4 amp. It was advised to run power wire to battery for best performance. Then planning on install of Kicker 500.1 sub amp which also requires direct battery connection. So that means I need to run TWO separate power wires to battery--is that correct?

Thanks!

Or run ONE connection into a distribution block . . .

 

[JonB2]

Or run ONE connection into a distribution block . . .

That sounds like a good idea too. Sorry where does the distribution block get installed? Not exactly sure how that works. Thank you.

 

[indio22]

Or run ONE connection into a distribution block . . .

From the battery what single power cable size are you guys running (to distribution block) to power both amps? Maybe 4 gauge real copper cable?

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

From the battery what single power cable size are you guys running (to distribution block) to power both amps? Maybe 4 gauge real copper cable?

I'm no electrician but I think one normally calc's this stuff based upon the amount of current the endpoints (amplifiers in this case) will draw (or try to) and the distance(s) over which that current will travel. There's charts to help plot out if this long and this far then this AWG . . .

All that preface out of the way, for my needs now and in the forseeable future, a single 1/0 AWG OFC through the FW will be more than enough to last anything I wish to put in the Bronco. People building out competition level sound systems would need more, potentially lots more, but then people building out such systems know (or should) how to project power needs.

 

[Brian_B]

From the battery what single power cable size are you guys running (to distribution block) to power both amps? Maybe 4 gauge real copper cable?

I ran #4 on a 100A fuse to a distribution block, and that is a pretty short run from the battery. Then from there split into a pair of #6 with 60A fuses.

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