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Kicker Key 200.4 amp Disappointing

rainman23

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I have the amp installed with new speakers all around (including 6.5 rears). I also added a small hideaway sub. I have done the Forscan mods. Sound is better than stock, but not quite what I was expecting. I know the DSP has not been done and I want to do it. I’ve seen the directions and understand the basic process. This is a topic I really don’t understand well. Are there some tips and tricks that really help the DSP make a difference? What settings should I put into the factory EQ? Saw the suggestion to turn off speed sensitive volume. I am assuming that the installer picked the appropriate amp settings and I just need to put the right settings into the factory EQ and run the Kicker DSP program.
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KillerPenz

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What is the speaker bar update?
If you had a pre-2023 (I think, not sure if newer Bronco's could get the JBL Soundbar). But Ford had a flash from JBL that they could apply using FDRS. It basically eliminated the need for a amp and sounded better.
 

Bmadda

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I have the amp installed with new speakers all around (including 6.5 rears). I also added a small hideaway sub. I have done the Forscan mods. Sound is better than stock, but not quite what I was expecting. I know the DSP has not been done and I want to do it. I’ve seen the directions and understand the basic process. This is a topic I really don’t understand well. Are there some tips and tricks that really help the DSP make a difference? What settings should I put into the factory EQ? Saw the suggestion to turn off speed sensitive volume. I am assuming that the installer picked the appropriate amp settings and I just need to put the right settings into the factory EQ and run the Kicker DSP program.
Factory EQ should be set completely flat, fader/balance should be centered, and speed volume and any noise cancelation should be off
 

rainman23

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Factory EQ should be set completely flat, fader/balance should be centered, and speed volume and any noise cancelation should be off
Thank you! This helps a ton.
 

rainman23

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Factory EQ should be set completely flat, fader/balance should be centered, and speed volume and any noise cancelation should be off
Probably a dumb question, but shows my lack of understanding. Is flat EQ everything in the middle or everything down to its lowest setting?
 

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Jazer

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Probably a dumb question, but shows my lack of understanding. Is flat EQ everything in the middle or everything down to its lowest setting?
The correct way is reset to the middle. I tried all the way down to low, and it was clipping bad when I played music. Reset to mid, then ran DSP and it is flawless now.
 

swamp2

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A simple flip of the EQ dip switch is the correct way to disable the applied EQ settings following auto-tune. Using the mic to toggle reverts back to factory, reduces output, removes speaker time delay / alignment, etc.

IMO, bad suggestion. You're definitely in the minority on this one.
My advice was simply for those (including OP) who get terrible results from auto EQ, which I've heard quite often, Bronco and other vehicles. Advice is per Kicker support. Removing all EQ by holding the mic button works great for me. Of course the dip switch works as well.

Are you saying you've tried this and it doesn't work? Are you also claiming that holding down the mic button only removes some of the settings established by auto EQ? I think some documentation/evidence is required for your claims as it doesn't coincide with my experience.
 

murphtron

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Chrome_Pony

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Are you supposed to leave the speed sensitive volume off after the initial setup?
 

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MidnightBlue

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I went down this kicker rabbit hole on everyone’s “recommendations” and let me save you a ton of time.

Sell the kicker it’s a POS and the auto DSP is a joke. It’s under powered. Get a proper 5.1 amp / dsp (JL, Rockford, Audison, Kenwood, Clarion etc.) with some power. Replace the top 4” speakers with HIGH quality silkdome tweeters. Highly recommend Audison Prima or Audiofrogs. The 6.5” kickers replace with JL or whatever is reasonable they don’t matter as much. The backs don’t even bother they don’t matter unless you like your soundstage way behind you.

Get a proper 10” or 12” sub in a box, stealthbox or tailgate sub.

Most importantly get a reputable shop to tune the DSP.

Voila you now have mind blowing sound.
 

Brian_B

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The two things the Kicker amps have going for them:

1) They are better than the stock amp

2) They have plug-and-play kits and are well documented making the install very easy.

I don't think anyone would defend them as the best sounding amp or mind-blowing. But they do make for an easy, not-too-expensive upgrade.
 

swamp2

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Noremac

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I added the reccomended kicker 6.5's in the kick panels and mabett pods to my wife's big bend back in december. difference was there, but not super impressed.

I added the 200.4 amp with plugnplay's harness last week and the difference was dramatic.. Sound was crisper, volume was much better, not much more bass from the kick panels, but whatever.. Volume and clarity was spot on.

I tore apart the rear yesterday to install an oem sub box, kicker cvr 8" 4ohm, wired that as 2ohm to a key 500.1 and oh man. its so many miles ahead of where the stock 6 speaker setup was... I would venture to say it sounds better than my factory b&o.

Now i get to go through and figure out how to upgrade my b&o next.
 
OP
OP

Zzoop28

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I played with it some more the past week, shutting the Kicker EQ dip switch = Off was the biggest improvement to better sound.
But having done that, now it has terrible clipping at about volume level 15-18, which is almost more annoying. I started with gain about half, and have backed it to almost zero now with the bad clipping still happening.
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