looking for help/advice for audio upgrade

[Ixr]

Im looking to finish upgrading my sound, I have the base 6 speaker system.

So far I added mabett pods with kicker ks 6.75 speakers, and changed the dash to kicker ks 4" with bass blockers. I then used forscan to send full signal to the back.

Im looking at the pnp kit with the 200.4 key, harness, and the 10" hideaway sub.

Currently the system sounds better than stock but is still lacking in volume and bass. Will the 200.4 key and the little self powered sub be good or is there a better approach. Ive seen conflicting things about the key with the ks series speakers.

I listen to metal and like my audio to hit very hard and loud if that helps with suggestions. Im also very novice with diy audio and have been just going off this forum and youtube videos to figure out how to install these things.

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[Dmorty217]

I have all kicked KS speakers with the Mabett pods as well with the kicker key 200.4 with a 12” kicker comp r run with a key 500.1. The system sounds great, very loud and clear and the sub slams.

 

[RagnarKon]

That's kind of a hard question to answer... because a lot of it depends on your personal tastes.

The Kicker 200.4 is underpowered for the application if I'm being honest. The reason why my (and I suspect so many other people) are selecting it is because of its small size, its relatively low cost, the availability of PnP kits, and because it's auto-setup features that handles EQ and time delay without a ton of work. I'm sure it also helps that there are so many people (myself included) have created install guides for it as well.

BUT, it's only a 200 watt amp shared across four channels and six speakers. That's not much at all. It's basically on-par with a really good factory audio system on many other vehicles. For me, that's exactly what I wanted. For you, if may not not be enough. (For some context... my Kicker Key starts clipping by the time I get the volume knob to 18/30... and its really noticeable around 22/30.)

If you really want to push the volume you really should be around 50-75 watts for smaller 4" speakers and 75-100 watts for 6.5"/6.75" speakers. Which means you are looking at a 400-600 watt amplifier... maybe 300 watts on the low-end. There are many amplifiers out there that fit the bill, and @plugnplaykits sells a handful of those options, both with and without DSPs...

• Musway M6
• AudioControl D-4.800
• Kicker CX360.4 (no DSP)
• AudioControl ACM-4.300 (no DSP)
• Musway M4+
• etc.

But, they also are generally a little bigger, harder to install, harder to configure, or there just isnt a whole lot of info/examples online of people actually using them. Doesn't make them bad amplifiers at all... having used the AudioControl D-series before I can tell you they are great... but it'll probably be a little more work to get installed and configured.

 

[Ixr]

thanks for responses so far.

Going the amp route with a plug and play kit is the install similar? Do you hook the harness up to factory radio then to the amp then run a wire from the amp to each speaker? Will the amp also run a sub.

sorry like I said I am very new to car audio but im determined to get my bronco rocking.

As to the taste question I want it to be loud. If the key 200.4 tops out at 18 that is not enough!

 

[plugnplaykits]

thanks for responses so far.

Going the amp route with a plug and play kit is the install similar? Do you hook the harness up to factory radio then to the amp then run a wire from the amp to each speaker? Will the amp also run a sub.

sorry like I said I am very new to car audio but im determined to get my bronco rocking.

As to the taste question I want it to be loud. If the key 200.4 tops out at 18 that is not enough!

Give me a call and I can explain your options and set you up with the proper kit . 203-889-1843

 

[RagnarKon]

thanks for responses so far.

Going the amp route with a plug and play kit is the install similar? Do you hook the harness up to factory radio then to the amp then run a wire from the amp to each speaker? Will the amp also run a sub.

sorry like I said I am very new to car audio but im determined to get my bronco rocking.

As to the taste question I want it to be loud. If the key 200.4 tops out at 18 that is not enough!

The plug and play kits tap into the factory wiring harness coming out of the factory audio control module. Some of the kits can also power a subwoofer, others need a separate amplifier for the subwoofer.

It sounds like @plugnplaykits is hooking you up with the info you need, but if you have any further questions after you talk to him let me know.

And if you want to get a sense of how much work this will be, I got a playlist on YouTube.

 

[Ixr]

yes @plugandplaykits spent a good amount of time explaining things to me over the phone. Good guy, recommend anyone else in my situation giving him a call.

ended up going with the 4 channel museway to power my kicker ks speakers and the stinger box with the kicker 500.1

This seems like it will get my audio where I want it and then some.

 

[MHerm]

thanks for responses so far.

Going the amp route with a plug and play kit is the install similar? Do you hook the harness up to factory radio then to the amp then run a wire from the amp to each speaker? Will the amp also run a sub.

sorry like I said I am very new to car audio but im determined to get my bronco rocking.

As to the taste question I want it to be loud. If the key 200.4 tops out at 18 that is not enough!

I upgraded all speakers to the kicker KS series- 4” in the dash along with 6.75” in the kick panels and the rear pods (used SSV PODs). I bought the AMP and harness from Plug n Play kits….he sells Audio Control. The harness is built completely plug n play and it’s loud! And most importantly sounds great. As for the volume control you won’t get much past 18-20 depending on what you are playing. I used the Stinger tailgate SUB (has the new Audio Control 12”woofer) and I went with the LC-5.1300….this will power all six speakers and send 500+ watts to your sub. Other parts of the configuration 300 hz bass blockers for the 4” dash speakers and a little FORScan configuration…drop the factory EQ, set the rear to “speaker”(for full range). The front two channels can be set to either speaker or tweeter/speaker. RagnarKON has all of the right setting examples in one of his videos. Also I would not buy the DSP version of the audio control amp as it only complicates the installation and I doubt you will need that level of EQ control or any time delay in the Bronco unless you are in audio competition….I certainly would not want to compete with a Bronco of that were the case. Audio Control is a high end configuration and quite a step up from the kicker key option. You shouldn’t need the DSP as it will sounds tremendously better than stock.

 

[Oh yea Bronco!]

That's kind of a hard question to answer... because a lot of it depends on your personal tastes.

The Kicker 200.4 is underpowered for the application if I'm being honest. The reason why my (and I suspect so many other people) are selecting it is because of its small size, its relatively low cost, the availability of PnP kits, and because it's auto-setup features that handles EQ and time delay without a ton of work. I'm sure it also helps that there are so many people (myself included) have created install guides for it as well.

BUT, it's only a 200 watt amp shared across four channels and six speakers. That's not much at all. It's basically on-par with a really good factory audio system on many other vehicles. For me, that's exactly what I wanted. For you, if may not not be enough. (For some context... my Kicker Key starts clipping by the time I get the volume knob to 18/30... and its really noticeable around 22/30.)

If you really want to push the volume you really should be around 50-75 watts for smaller 4" speakers and 75-100 watts for 6.5"/6.75" speakers. Which means you are looking at a 400-600 watt amplifier... maybe 300 watts on the low-end. There are many amplifiers out there that fit the bill, and @plugnplaykits sells a handful of those options, both with and without DSPs...

• Musway M6
• AudioControl D-4.800
• Kicker CX360.4 (no DSP)
• AudioControl ACM-4.300 (no DSP)
• Musway M4+
• etc.

But, they also are generally a little bigger, harder to install, harder to configure, or there just isnt a whole lot of info/examples online of people actually using them. Doesn't make them bad amplifiers at all... having used the AudioControl D-series before I can tell you they are great... but it'll probably be a little more work to get installed and configured.

thanks for taking the time to reply. I’m desperate to do alll the audio upgrades possible but it’s overwhelming. Posts like this help.

 

[DJ1]

I upgraded all speakers to the kicker KS series- 4” in the dash along with 6.75” in the kick panels and the rear pods (used SSV PODs). I bought the AMP and harness from Plug n Play kits….he sells Audio Control. The harness is built completely plug n play and it’s loud! And most importantly sounds great. As for the volume control you won’t get much past 18-20 depending on what you are playing. I used the Stinger tailgate SUB (has the new Audio Control 12”woofer) and I went with the LC-5.1300….this will power all six speakers and send 500+ watts to your sub. Other parts of the configuration 300 hz bass blockers for the 4” dash speakers and a little FORScan configuration…drop the factory EQ, set the rear to “speaker”(for full range). The front two channels can be set to either speaker or tweeter/speaker. RagnarKON has all of the right setting examples in one of his videos. Also I would not buy the DSP version of the audio control amp as it only complicates the installation and I doubt you will need that level of EQ control or any time delay in the Bronco unless you are in audio competition….I certainly would not want to compete with a Bronco of that were the case. Audio Control is a high end configuration and quite a step up from the kicker key option. You shouldn’t need the DSP as it will sounds tremendously better than stock.

I would disagree with this comment about the DSP. I have never done a full DSP tune before this and it was actually way easier than expected. Real DSPs, not the Kicker Key version, are not just for competition or high-end systems. I would not build a car audio system without one after doing 2 different kinds in 2 different cars. The EQ control and time alignment are critical to getting good sound in any car. It also makes controlling crossovers and levels super easy.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

To the OP, your choice of the Musway amp is fine. You might want to look at upgrading your kick panel speakers. If you listen to metal, as you said, you are going to want more mid bass in the front stage. If you don't want to spend extra, take your 6.75s that you put in the rear pods and swap them with your factory kick panel speakers. Right now your best sound is going to be coming from behind you, the opposite of what you want. Either way, you have enough power to make the kick panels work for you. The Kicker Key 200.4 people who have commented that the kick panels don't do anything are not powering their systems sufficiently.

 

[MHerm]

I would disagree with this comment about the DSP. I have never done a full DSP tune before this and it was actually way easier than expected. Real DSPs, not the Kicker Key version, are not just for competition or high-end systems. I would not build a car audio system without one after doing 2 different kinds in 2 different cars. The EQ control and time alignment are critical to getting good sound in any car. It also makes controlling crossovers and levels super easy.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

To the OP, your choice of the Musway amp is fine. You might want to look at upgrading your kick panel speakers. If you listen to metal, as you said, you are going to want more mid bass in the front stage. If you don't want to spend extra, take your 6.75s that you put in the rear pods and swap them with your factory kick panel speakers. Right now your best sound is going to be coming from behind you, the opposite of what you want. Either way, you have enough power to make the kick panels work for you. The Kicker Key 200.4 people who have commented that the kick panels don't do anything are not powering their systems sufficiently.

I should have been more clear. The Bronco has a horrible set up for sound. Yes a DSP is great and does what it is supposed to do but for 95% or more of folks out there it’s unnecessary. I. My case I didn’t want to spend the extra 400-$500 for the DSP version. All good.

 

[BAD.LANDS]

yes @plugandplaykits spent a good amount of time explaining things to me over the phone. Good guy, recommend anyone else in my situation giving him a call.

ended up going with the 4 channel museway to power my kicker ks speakers and the stinger box with the kicker 500.1

This seems like it will get my audio where I want it and then some.

The Musway is a good choice. It has a ton of power. It’s painfully loud at 15 with no clipping. I mounted it in the rear quarter on a piece of starboard opposite the brake light. I have a 10” kicker hideaway on the tailgate.

 

[Ixr]

i have 4" kicker ks in the dash with bass blockers, and ks 6.75" in the rear pods currently. I was planning on putting 6.5 ks into the doors, do the 6.75 fit there, or is there a better speaker to round out this set up. Im waiting to upgrade the door speakers until I install the stinger sub and amps.

 

[Ixr]

audio project pretty much complete now. Kicker ks 4" with bass 600hz blockers in dash, kicker 6.5 ks in kick panels, kicker ks 6.75 in the mabett pods in back and the stinger tailgate sub. Museway 400 powering the speakers and kicker 500.1 powering the sub.

Took me and a buddy a entire day but we got it done. Ended up mounting the amps to the side panel so I can mess with settings instead of bhind the trim. Just need to tape up the wires a bit.

With volume at 16 we were in range of 94-127 decibles with a average of 102. To put it this setup absolutely slams. There is no rattles to chase and overall im very happy with this set up.

thanks to plugandplaykits and everyone else for the input.

 

[BroncoBerry]

10" hideaway sub

I'm in the same boat. I haven't replaced the pods but I'm looking for more bass.
I'm looking at the subs in a separate box to mount with the amp under the rear seats.

I'd be interested if you went with a 3/400 amp on how you do yours.

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