Notes from Wheeling / Breaking / Fixing / Loving the Bronco

[Aonarch]

https://ppepower.com/products/trans...st-aluminum-ford-10r80?variant=43838501388531

Something to consider, upgrading the pan to aluminum and running a skid.

I did that with my Ranger.

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[partylineisfine]

https://ppepower.com/products/trans...st-aluminum-ford-10r80?variant=43838501388531

Something to consider, upgrading the pan to aluminum and running a skid.

I did that with my Ranger.

I considered getting a metal pan, but couldn't source one quick enough. It is a good option though.

 

[partylineisfine]

Good questions.

- I think it looks a lot better. It just fills the wells much better and I get tons of comments on it (although that's not really what I'm going for)

- I haven't taken it wheeling as much since I hit the pan. I haven't gotten plates yet and I got busy. I did do a little bit of wheeling on a 4 rated trail, but that's about it. The extra clearance is not super noticeable. The MT tires do grip better though.

- The extra unsprung weight is highly noticeable. They did over gear and over power the bronco, so it doesn't really take too much from the driving experience. And the MPG drop is pretty noticeable too. I find myself keeping my off-road gauges up more and trying to keep my foot out just light of boosting the turbos. Anything over 55 mph, those suckers are spinning hard in my mountainous region.

- As far as the wear and tear of the extra weight, I don't think there will be much. Because I haven't changed the angles of the suspension, breaking, impact, and acceleration stress should be minimal.

- I have noticed the rear door is starting to rattle/squeak, but that just started yesterday. It might be from the extra weight, but I haven't investigated yet.

Hope that helps.

Another thought if you want to get a good look without going to 37s.

- Purchase some non-sasquatch fenders
- Add a 1" or more wheel spacer
- Purchase some meaty looking 35s.

If you do these 3 things, it will look awesome and you won't sacrifice much.

 

[partylineisfine]

Well, the rattles have started. I'm not sure if it's because it's gotten colder or the 37 spare has started to loosen up the tailgate.

I kind of expected rattles given I drive it pretty hard on the trails, but this is pretty excessive.

Going to try and do a few things:

- White grease everywhere
- Tighten everything I can to spec
- Adjust all windows from under the door


If that stuff doesn't work I'll probably:
- Buy the IAG reinforcement (I don't want to spend the money, but I will if I have to. The side benefit is it has holes to mount a hi-lift.
- Take it to the dealer to fix. I heard there was a TSB to fix the tailgate.

I've also noticed some paint in the top driver-side corner of the tailgate starting to chip away. I think the door is rubbing against the rear quarter panel.

I do hate rattles, but expect some level of sound from a soft top wheeling vehicle. The rattles I'm getting are not small, they are big and rather concerning.

Turns out, I have a new hobby.

 

[cynicalrider]

Subbing for hard wheeling, Broncos and Toyotas!

My Bronco purchase was based very similarly to yours. Wife hates riding in the Tacoma, and we are out grew it for family rips offroad. She LOVES the Bronco and even took it offroad for the first time herself last weekend. I have dreams of taking them to Moab in it like I did my Taco.

 

[partylineisfine]

Upgrade Update:

I'm hosting the Broncos on the Butte event in Central Oregon on the 18th of November. Given that, there usually is a lot of snow up there this time of year (Once did a 3' push plow with my Land Cruiser 3 years ago) I figured I needed a winch.

First of all, shameless plug. If you want to join us, RSVP here. It's going to be super fun with great sponsors and attendees. No wheeling experience is needed. We'll get you through. If you don't wheel, you could join us after for beers. https://www.eventbrite.com/e/broncos-on-the-butte-tickets-741836582187?aff=oddtdtcreator

Thought process: I wanted something that was light and unobtrusive. In keeping with the original design elements, Bronco kept a flat front with a minimal bumper. I didn't want something hanging off the front. That being said, all the guts are smashed up to the front grill so pushing something into the internals is near impossible. My friend has the hidden winch. After seeing what it takes to install and the pain in the ass use of the freespool, I didn't think this was a good option.

I also didn't want to move the camera if possible. I don't like the cameras that are mounted to the very front as they could get damaged. I might move mine up on the grill, but didn't want a winch that blocked everything.

Here is what I settled on:
- Rough Country High Winch Mount with light bar
- Smittybilt 10k winch

Total added weight: around 85lbs

Here is why:
- Rough County gets a lot of shit, but some of their products are a great bargain for what you get. I think this was a perfect example of that. The bar is really bright and the mount sits high enough to not relocate the impact sensor and close enough to the grill that it doesn't look like a tongue.
- Smittybilt: almost all winches are made in the same place. I've used and installed several smittybilt winches and they have never failed me. This winch is light and compact(ish). I can also easily relocate the control box to the side. To boot, the remote is wireless. This is actually an awesome feature to have if you winch a lot.

Total install took about 4 hours. I don't read directions unless I get stuck as I like to figure it out as I go. Bronco wiring is sweet. Tied the bar right into the wire on the front and then to switch #3. Couldn't be easier except for the very tight fishing throughout the grill and side panels.

Overall rake is now 1.25" Temp fix is going to be a 1.25 spacer lift. If that doesn't do what I want, then it's coils. If that doesn't work, it's suspension lift time.

Will it hold up? We shall see. Winching in snow can be pretty rough on the welds.

 

[partylineisfine]

Winch = Rake. So, I ordered up a readylift 1.25 inch leveling kit and went to work.

Here is what they won't tell you:

- The studs for the bottom of the shock are a nightmare to get out. Cut with a sawsall, angle grinder, etc. to get it out.
- You don't have to remove the axle shaft
- Shock blowing sometimes won't work for the tie rod and the UCA. Use a tierod removing tool
- Use the same tool with a crescent wrench to get the studs out of the bottom of the shock.
- The bonus from this is less rubbing with 37s.

Here are some before and after photos. Next, need to get the alignment checked and sipe the tires for winter.

 

[partylineisfine]

Now a little vanity. I wanted a little poke from the tires because I think it looks way better. The bonus here is that your tires will hit whatever you're close to before your fender. My son hit a tree recently by cutting in early. Hit the fender without damage, but it wouldn't have hit anything if I had the smaller fenders on.

These are the stock fenders. Purchased them from somebody on Facebook. $100

Extra spray is minimal and about what it was with the larger fenders.

 

[partylineisfine]

Holy Tailgate Squeek. It's reached a point that is driving me crazy. Noise is fine, but this is otherworldly.

Solution attempt: Hammer Built reinforcement. This didn't do anything, but it is good to have it and it's not too expensive. ($230 with shipping)

Real solution: WD-40 White Lithium spray on the connection between the soft top and the back corner as well as inside the door at the bolts. Seems to have worked.

 

[PolarMind]

This is very helpful. I just got my Bronco a couple of weeks ago. I've also had older Land Cruisers. I just started running out of time with the constant maintenance required with older vehicles.

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