Regearing for 35's

[Brian_B]

Thanks for the feedback. I will likely get a 2" coilover lift. How much gas mileage and performance issues have you noticed with the 35s.

All in all would you go 35s again or stick with 33s. Im close to a decision point here.
Thanks.

If you are going off road with it - 35s. You can do a lot with 33's, so not discounting that, but there's no substitute for bigger tires on the trail and 35s take very little to make work well on the Bronco.

If this is a daily driver, and you are worried about any of the following:
* Tire longevity
* Road Noise
* Fuel Economy
* Ride Height
* Factory Warranty
* Crash Bars
Then stick to the smaller tire.

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[Brian_B]

In your experience what is the general parts list and cost to regear a Bronco with 3.73. I have done the research and can't find one instance of anyone saying they actually did it. Others say the cost is too outrageous (How much?).

You would pretty well need to replace the front FDU/axles and the entire rear axle. For any ratio up to 4.70

Parts alone, roughly - new from Ford using Factory stock (not Ford Performance):
Front - $1,500
Rear - $2,000
Then add in labor depending on if you are paying to get it done or DIY
Bonus - You'd get front/rear lockers in the process.

 

[Brian_B]

You would pretty well need to replace the front FDU/axles and the entire rear axle. For any ratio up to 4.70

Also, to be clear:

You could regear what you have. They do sell regear kits for the m220 and the m190. It is technically possible. Someone around here has done it before.

But...

You won't really be saving any money doing that; it's very labor intensive do open up the diffs and swap the gears - so every bit you save on parts you'll be dumping back into labor. And if you are paying shop rates for labor, it could actually end up being more expensive.

And you wouldn't get your bonus lockers that way either.

Also --

It's possible that you could get lucky and find takeoffs or salvage yard find. Every now and again I'll see a 4.46 m190, or a m210 or m220 in 4.46 or 4.70 (I got lucky and got a rear end 4.46 with ELD here that way). But it takes some patience and luck - it's not a sure thing and they aren't entirely common.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Somebody actually did all of this leg work, getting actual estimates and parts costs and shared it here.
Factory Squatch works out to be the best option.
Of course Squatch also used to include bead lock capable wheels, another bonus. Price out beadlocks if you enjoy sticker shock.



The regear for the rear axle would require a new carrier and the parts & labor costs add up very similar to just ordering a new Ford axle with the gearing you want and the "bonus" ELD as noted earlier.

The install of the new M210 Front Drive Unit would probably be a deal breaker if you had to pay for it , but again, up to 4.70 it's not a bad deal new from Ford OR you can find the occasional take offs front and rear in the market place.
IF you decide to go deeper than 4.70, they want an extra grand for the FDU from Ford (5.13 or 5.38) in those ratios ... last time I checked anyways.

.... and finally, there are those who are just plain happy turning 35's with 3.73 gears.

I have the 2.3 manual with 4.46 gears. There is not a ton of difference between the stock 30's and the 35's ...mainly the weight (I'd guess) makes the launch a bit sluggish. I switched back to the 30's recently and expected to feel a big difference ... no, not really.

Bonus, I get better MPG's on the Interstate at 78mph in 5th gear with the 35's than I do with the stock 30's in 6th gear.
2700 rpm seems to be the magic spin rate for this 4 banger.

 

[BadgerSix]

Thanks for all your replies. Its the clarification I was looking for as far as cost to regear.

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